AWESOME Emergency STOP or BAD idea?

Picked 2 random products that seem like they'd work.

1)
Power strip with a foot on/off.


(specs unknown)

Cut/splice to lengthen the cable so it's within hand reach instead of a foot button on the rig.

2)
Wi-Fi Smart Surge Protector, 6 Grounded Outlets


specs:
120Vac, 60Hz, 15A

Why?

I'm using 2 12V 40A 480w led power supplies to convert AC to DC for JRK motors.

Checking the FAQ and reading over some old threads like:
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/emergency-stop-switch-wiring.5132/page-2

being a non-electrician and simply wanting to build a safe rig and live to enjoy it, noticed @Zeds surge protector is 15A power , so figure could definitely use that wifi strip for the motors and control via phone, so when the strip shuts them off, the fans would keep going, as I'd just pop them onto a smaller power supply and save myself (possibly literally) from actually wiring a stop?

Hmmm, night night all!

But....seeing as the strip is rated 15a, is it actually used for the motors anyway, doesn't seem right, like A will use 30A plugged into something that handles 15A, or it a variation upon max load that the strip can simply handle, no clue

@gSeat - if I understand what you are asking correctly, the apparent mismatch is just how power works in electrical circuits. My mains are 120 volts and the outlet strip I use is 15 amps - at 120 volts. That’s 1800 Watts with no losses. My power supplies and motors all run at 12 volts. 1800 Watts at 12 volts is 150 amps, again with no losses.

I figure my motors are sometimes pulling up to 40 amps or so (give or take) when things really get wild so that’s about 80 amps total out of the 150 amp budget. Still plenty of headroom.

You got it @Zed, thank you!

As non electrician I didn't even contemplate the basics of ohms law...just saw "15a at power strip, and 40a motor going in - that sounds bad" The basic concept of w/v/a relationship didn't enter the brain - thank you for the explanation and activating my neurons

1 motor= 12v*40a = 480w/motor
480w max *3 motors at some point still only = 1440 watts, well under max load.

Yay ohms law ftw!

With this in place, the STOP signal would occur at the AC strip, cutting off power before the AC/DC converter.


OOPS, NO FUSE???

I do have a whole house surge protector, but since I'll bring this places that will not necessarily have one, a fuse seem prudent.


@Alexey back in 2015 here Emergency Stop Switch - Wiring?
said

EDIT: Based on what @Alexey said, I'm thinking that the fuse enabled surge protector would serve the purpose of manually wiring a fuse in line. Instead I'd just do what the diagram I drew shows.

The smart strip or foot button strip would KILL power when manually pressed, and there are other fuses in the entire circuit flow, so I'm confused as to the benefit of wiring in yet another fuse. Almost created another thread titled, "Fuse needed?" BUT if this setup above actually is any good, it needs to address proper fuse implementation. If anyone can check the diagram explaining my understanding critique, and help me/others understand the fuse aspect, that'd be great. I did remember to check the FAQ FAQ #277 JRK fuses, kill switch and fan wiring (Heatsink also Required), but it addresses kill switches and fuses after the ac/dc conversion.
Here's my understanding of what's going on and why with 2 fuses in play it seems another is not needed?


Also aware that that original 2015 thread started with a DC battery as the source, but it contained a lot of info that seemed to help me understand some more about things just enough to think this might work - but maybe not at all Thank you!

@gSeat - a whole house surge protector is great to have but doesn’t help you for circuit overloads. Also, a fuse or breaker on your power block/strip is nice to have but is not the ideal solution for these setups. It’s the same reason your house will have a main breaker like 200 amps or something, but then each circuit also has a lower rated breaker. Without those breakers on individual circuits, you could have wiring in your walls lit up like toaster coils and the 200 amp breaker happy as a clam to stay closed.

I have my system set up with fuses on the low voltage, high current side and one for each motor circuit. That way if a motor overcurrents for some reason, the fuse is quick to open. My power entry modules that I have on each power supply also have fuses in them so I’m kind of overprotected. Fuses on the load side, fuses on the supply side, and a breaker on the whole power strip. Probably overkill but the power input modules were just a few cents more with fuses in them than plain ones without.

But with "high power" circuits, it’s good to have each one individually protected because you can size the protection appropriately for each circuit. When you protect multiple circuits with just one overcurrent device, you have to size it for all the circuits to be in operation. That makes it less responsive to problems on any one circuit. Like the big breaker in a house breaker box.

I want to add that my power supply also has "enable input", which can switch off 12V load. I use it as emergency switch if for some reason rig become "crazy" with somebody in it.