Showroom Budget Roman's Design 6DOF Remixed

Hi guys,
I am presenting my ongoing 6DOF project based on @Ronan Design 6DOF (which can be found here: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...g-msfs-smc3-flypt-transducers-controls.19053/) remixed with different components and ideas from other members of this forum.

Preamble
I have very limited knowledge on building a motion simulator especially in electrical connections, Arduino coding, SMC usage, etc..
My intent with this project is to gather ideas from members involved in the orignal rig and try to build "an improved" version which maintains the "Budget core principle" of the original motion simualtor keeping it available to all wanting to embark in this journey.
It should be pointed out that all credits must go to the original creator and other forum members involved as they deserve it for all the hard work done and make this possible for anyone who shares this passion and dreams.
They are used as examples or because their proposals seemed interesting to me.
Note that I will try my best to post on this thread only references, photos, codes, etc. of key components and modifications of original rig to preserve the creator's credits.
In saying this if you want to build this exact rig yourself, first of all, you have to contact the original creator to get started with detailed designs, parts required, guides, etc. then read his thread where you will also find additional tips from other members and feel free to check out this thread if you find it interesting.

Rig Introduction
As already mentioned this is a remix of an existing 6DOF motion simualtor project in order to maintain same geometry.
Rig main key features / points:

• Base platform design and dimensions very close to original (mine was done from a wood pallet as i got one for free);

• Top platform seat base which connects to base frame same as original, this then has been remixed to hold wheel, yoke, pedals, rudders, etc. from a fixed 8020 extrusion rig I had for the past years.

• Electric Control Box design and dimensions same as original with minor modifications to try to keep cabling a bit more tidy.

• I opted for 350W 24V 75rpm wheelchair motors from Aliexpress instead of the 250W version, the main reasons were negligible price difference between the 2 and I think the more power the easier it will lift higher weight.
• 3x Cytron MDD20A drivers dual channel 20A per channel instead of 6x Cytron MD13S due to the bigger motors choice.
• 3x Arduino Uno Clones as per original (the usb-c aliexpress ones didn't want to work so I got other 3 cheap Arduino Unos from local Jaycar store as I didn't want to wait other 2 weeks from Aliexpress).
• 2x 1200W 240=>24V 50A power supplies from Aliexpress for the motors connected in parallel to 1 wall plug as technically in operation they shouyld never draw the all 2400W from the wall and anyways I made sure both cable and plug are rated for 2400W at 10A.
• 1x 360W 240V=>12V Power supply to power: the 12V strobe lights, the ECB 12V fans, 12V on second realy module for arduinos control, existing DIY 3D printed wind sim 12V fans I found online and pedals haptic feedback tranducer kit bought previously on Aliexpress.
• 1x Dual Ouput Meanwell Power Supply 65W 240V=>12V/5V from local Jaycar store using only the 5V output, for now, to power the RGB controller and power both relay modules (The 12V is intended to power the Deek-Robot displays but I had to remove them because the motors were acting weird, to be fixed at later stage somehow).
• 6x 20A Auto line fuse holders from Aliexpress placed between the 8 channel relay module and rectifiers
• 6x KBPC5010 Bridge rectifiers from Aliexpress placed between in line fuse holders and Cytrons.
• 6x AH3503 hall sensor reading magnets from motor arms.
• 1x 8-Channel 5V relay module from Aliexpress using 6 relays with individual power coming from the 24V power supplies and each relay going to each fuse holder => rectifier => Cytron => Motor (this setup is differnt from original, thanks to @Martwana idea and also due to bigger motors I am using bigger AWG cables which already singularly struggle to get in the relay COM so there was no way to fit 2 cables in 1 relay. Seems that @HyperJoel is going same route).
• 1x Keyestudio 4-channel 5V relay module for controlling the fans and arduinos runaways (this relay module is additional to original design as the 8 channel relay have 6 relays in use for the motors). Idea thanks to @Martwana .
• Below Electrical diagram of 2nd relay module added to original diagram (I have no idea if it is correct, hope so)

• Top Platform will have a gaming chair without wheels mounted on seat sliders and 4 points seatbelt.
• "Quick swap" system with 3D printed M8 bolts handles (idea and print files took from the internet) for changing easily between steering wheel / flight yoke mounted on plywood, same for racing pedals / rudder and for gear lever / throttle quadrant.
• Intended use of simulator with VR but thinking to add a screen to the aluminium profile for easy navigation while not in VR.
• Main purpose of rig Flight Simulator, BeamNG, Rally, Assetto Corsa.

My Sim Hardware:

• Moza force feedback flight yoke.
• Honeycomb Bravo Throttle Quadrant.
• Saitek Rudder Pedals.
• Next level racing HF8 Haptic gaming pad.
• Thrustmaster T300 steering wheel Ferrari edition.
• Thrustmaster T3PA pedals.
• Thrustmaster TH8S H-shifter.
• 3D printed sequential shifter / handbrake combo (from Printables I think).
• 3D printed DIY wind sim from computer fans (also from web).
• 50W haptic transducer kit from Aliexpress for racing pedals / yoke (in future need to find a way to quick swap them from racing pedals to rudder pedals)

Current rig status:
Bottom platform completed, top platform frame assembled ready to be placed on top, 3x gas struts ready if needed to be istalled, ECB all connected to power (only thing missing to connect is Deek-Robots monitors).
Currently hall sensors under calibration with SMC Utils using original rig Arduino code.
Tried to use @OrtiMai @Sebastian2 modified code but I am still stuck in calibration.

Issues I have so far:

1. With the Deek-Robot monitors connected I was unable to manually move the motors in reverse using the test buttons on the Cytron, after disconnecting the Deek-Robots motors behaved as expected - To be resolved later as I am not sure how to connect them properly.
2. I wasn't getting 24V to the cytron only to discover I did the bridge on the rectifiers wrong - Solved
3. Hall sensor bracket shaking when the motor arms are moving because the magnets touch the bracket while rotating - Partially solved as I am working on a motor set at time.
4. Hall sensor calibration with min-max values in Arduino code done but some have quite ranges diferrences between the 2 motors on that Arduino resulting in a smaller range when choosing the final combined values to put in the code with possible overshooting / oversensibility when testing with SMC Utils. - To be investigated further (I will post my min./max values later to see if I can get any suggestions)
5. When testing motors in SMC Utils by moving the motor arms manually, "Motor2" green line always goes in the wrong direction (so this happens to motor 2, 4 and 6). When moving the motor arm up the green line should go up and viceversa but is not the case with me for the 2nd motor in the set - Checked the magnets polarity countless time to ensure they are facing the same way but same issue.
6. Did an SMC Utils check on a pair of motors and set the clip / cut-offs orange and red lines before the stop and after the stops respectively as instructed, when moving the motor arms manually they stay in range but connecting them to the power they just start spinning on their own breaking everything and it seems they always only move in 1 direction even if I thick manual in SMC and move the right slider the opposite way - To be resolved as I am 3D printing stops, motor arms and sesnor brackets twice daily.

Can someone please help on above issues how can I fix them maybe with a quick step-by-step guide?
Thanks

With 5 I actually haven't tried inverting the motor wiring because when connected the first time to SMC Utils to adjust the clips/limits I did so with the motors unplugged to avoid it running away, I just moved the motor arms manually up and down till the stops.

With 6, I tought and tried to rotate the magnet holder 180 degress but I still get issues (in this case tested bothy with motor unplugged and connected).
Firstly by putting the arm in the center by hand and then firing up SMC the green line starts way off the center and moving the arm manually up and down the green line jumps around like if it is overshooting or going the wrong way, it looks simular to this screenshot but worse.

Another member advised that the polarity should be the same across all motor pairs so I sticked to that.

Actually another weird thing happend earlier. Had a pair of motors calibrated and green line stayed in range in both so I plugged the motors to check movement, at the beginning they were holding position but then when clicking on Motor2 to try it out the previous motor started spinning on it's own.