DIY 2DOF Seat Mover

Hello,

Introduction : I present to you my rig that I made in PVC.
I'm playing on a logitech G27 at the moment, I'll change it after the seat mover is made. Concerning the screen, I play on a 35" Ultrawide which I would change in the future for 3 screens or for a VR headset.

Here are some photos of the rig:







My goal : I want to create a DIY 2DOF Seat mover.
I made a test bench to understand a little how it works and do some experiments before making the "final" version:


Components :
- Motors with worm gear 24V DOGA 319 with sensor hall (I don't use this fonction)
- Powersupply 500W DC24V
- Arduino Uno (clone)
- Controllers IBT-2
- Potentiometers 360°

I am at the stage of adjusting the parameters on SMC3, I found quite little information. I found a setting where the feedback line follows the target line relatively well but the motor is quite noisy in this configuration, I don't know if this is a good thing for the motor.

Looking forward to chat with you

Yes, it was with this tutorial that I became familiar with SMC3. Although I generally understand the idea of each parameter, I do not yet have the experience of knowing how to point to the parameter in question that causes the curve to shift at a specific location. I watched a few rare videos (not in my language) on YouTube on this subject but it didn't help me any further. I will make a correct translation into my language of the tutorial in order to have documentation that is quicker to read and use when I am on SMC3.

I did some tests regarding the noise: if I lower Fpwm I have an ultrasound noise that is heard. But it's not the noise I was talking about above. The noise sounds more like pebbles spinning in a cement mixer. The higher the PWMmin setting, the higher the noise. I made a video with this noise. When I'll have the right to share you it here I will.
I was also wondering if the technology of having a motor with a worm screw could cause this noise?
I noticed that the noise was when the motor was in a static position. Indeed, if I make it make rapid movements, I don't have this parasitic noise.

Initially I wanted to make my seat-mover with a better quality controller that I have: EM-241-SAF
https://www.enrgtech.co.uk/product/motor-controllers/ET17703312/EM-241-SAF
However, I have zero feedback on this controller and I have to start from scratch to make a program.
But I recently discovered the use of IBT-2 and I said to myself that this was a good opportunity to build my first seat-mover version without spending too much money.

video : https://youtube.com/shorts/CFVObbUnu1M?si=DH4Gej_jNcWsKNy6

Here are the settings I had, the curves (target/feedback) except PWM aren't too bad I think.

Today I wanted to try to make the motors move in Live for Speed but they don't move.
LFS is patched by Simtool, and the software detects that the game is launching.
If I do a test without launching games but juste on Simtools GameEngine, I press "Turn On" (Output testing) and nothing happens when I touch the sliders of the different effects. Which step did I miss?

Hello and thank you for your reply.
The default axis assignment profile seems allready configured.
I followed the steps in your link to correctly patch LFS (the tutorial I followed had another method) and now the engines react on Simtool and on LFS. Thank you so much.
Concerning the noise of iddle motors, before incriminating the IBT-2 (and buy a sabertooth 2x32), I generally saw that the absence of a hall sensor on a motor could cause malfunctions (noises, jerks) during start-up in particular. My motor has a hall sensor but it is not connected. I don't know how to go about it, or if its positional information is complementary to the external potentiometer or if it should replace it. I have already seen a project with a hoverboard motor on the forum, it would be interesting if I found the topic to see how the cable connection was managed.



This is my motors datasheet. Currently I just wired A and B.

Sorry if I'm not clear. What I mean is that my motor is not a typical motor with two power pins, it also has a connection to wire the internal hall sensor.
My rig works with the external potentiometer.
I am wondering about not using the hall sensor function integrated into my motor, I have seen on youtube setups with motor equipped with a hall sensor which was disconnected that this could create noise and knocking problems.

This is the basic version of my motor model (319), my motor is a "319 hall".
The technical sheet is available on this link on page 26:
https://docs.rs-online.com/cb0c/A700000006812175.pdf

My version is exactly 319.4862.30.00 24v

Yes currently I did not ground isolated the motor, I didn't know. I don't know if this is necessary with my motor. I don't find any wire which is connected to the motors body, and the body is fixed in a wood plank.
There is no continuity between A and the motor body .
There is no continuity between B and the motor body.

hello everyone, I bought a 2x32 sabertooth to avoid having problems.
Here is the electrical diagram I was thinking of making. I hope I have sized the resistors correctly for the sabertooth.

Yes this is the calculator that I used