Gear Motors

Folks, are these good enough and the right type of motor for 2DOF motion?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GEAR-MOTOR-1...384?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51bd392f00

I can't speak from personal experience but there are some here who say those are just right for a balanced 2dof seat mover that doesn't move your feet and pedals also. You may need to use a slightly shorter lever however resulting in slightly less overall movement but in return you will have a very fast moving rig!

@Sebj , yes they are fine, plenty of us use them or similar for 2DOF seat movers, or full frames that are a "foot motor" mount.

Thanks @bsft , I've seen larger ratio ones mentioned for greater torque. Is 25:1 the optimal ratio in this case or are there other parameters I could look for that provide the best motors.

What sort of frame design do you have in mind? How tall are you, and what do you weigh? Do you expect a heavier player to be using it?

I found the FAQ that details measuring torque vs speed. I will post answers to the above in a few minutes.

This will be 3DOF with a metal frame structure. Here is a preliminary CAD.

I'm planning on 30degrees back and 15 degrees to the side. I weight 84kg and say my seat weights 15kg. This will be a seat mover. I dont expect anyone much heavier than me using.

Thanks @noorbeast , is "brutal" a desirable trait?
Does the software allow for some tweaking should the motion be too violent?

Hello, frame looks just fine but Id suggest 50mm CTC levers, not 80mm. Thats from 4 years, 14 build experience.
And yes, the software motion profiles can be "softened" a bit.
What control boards are you using?

Agree @noorbeast but really that was built as a SimX killer and proven to respond much faster and way more immersion.
But anywhere between 200 - 500mm/s would feel ideal , really anything less is like riding on a 80's amusement ride, been there done that one myself.
But again there is a way to use longer levers but not too gain more range of movement but to gain more speed in the same range as it was.
I ran 150mm c/c levers on my Winch motor setup that's only moving slowly, but used a small range (degree's) so that it travels reasonably over the distance required to move the sim (full 2dof) quick enough not to loose the immersion factor of the motion mixed with the game graphics.
Once a sim is profiled correctly and once in motion in game , one tends to think his in a car doing 200kph down the track. It just feels real. And only by looking around he realises , "Ah that's right Im at home, lol"

@bsft , I will go with JRKs.

What motor is suggested for traction loss, same ones?

For ease of use 25:1's , just slow them down a little with the Jrks so the traction loss is not so violent if using it by a lever design.
I will be using a 60:1 box on mine because of the very little backlash and possibly the higher forces of stopping the rig suddenly on a drift movement.

Thanks @eaorobbie , likely then this may be a better pick for traction loss.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEAR-MOTOR-...483?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51bed470a3

Appreciate the help so far from everyone. I will start an official build thread once I do a bit more research.

@eaorobbie wanna ask something about this. how do you set how much range (degree's) your motors to move? with JRK utility,game engine axis assignment-limiting,gearing pots? will there be any resolution loss for motion feedback(step movement) if it isn't set from the pot?

@insanegr The JRK has 4 times the resolution of an arduino, sorry.
So even with using only 80mm total travel of the lever travel as set in the JRK utility, we still have 4 times the resolution. You probably will have a hard time matching that.
And in the utility program, its a heck of a lot easier to adjust PID to suit smaller lever travel range and also adjust motor speed.
Hall effects or decent quality pots are about the same. Ive used both and so has Rob.
I initially used gears, but found that a good quality wire wound pot 360 deg single turn to be excellent, even at 70mm travel. And for the applications I use them on, they are 100% reliable.

I’m sorry too, but as discussed before, the JRK’s adc (analog to digital converter) is 10bit just like the arduino’s. If you want an arduino to have the same supposed resolution of a JRK, take 4 readings of a pot and add them together. You will now have a 12bit number obtained from taking four 10bit readings just like the JRK does it. But in reality, the actual resolution can never ever be greater than the resolution of the adc!

Of course, if you were to do this on an arduino, you would need to change the code to work with 12bit numbers. Then you could make the same claims as the JRK’s do when it comes to resolution. But its really just smoke and mirrors especially when you consider that JRK’s have an 8bit processor just like arduino’s do!

@BlazinH , thank you for clarifying this , I was wrong and I admit it.
Carry on...