Here is my first setup

Here is a short video of my WIP. Sorry for the mess, the poor video quality and the poor driver ( one of my friend trying it for the first time, notice the smile on his face! ) This machine seems to give a smile to anybody who tries it! I'm using Jrk's with two different wiper motor. Anybody willing to share their jrk setup, i mean the pid value. Also the feedback deadzone and pid period. I'll share mine tonight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Wq2w5p8OUw&feature=feedu

Thanks for watching and feel free to comment
and by the way english is not my native language so forgive my mistakes. :thbup:

Very nice you have good movement already as a base to start with.

You should read about PID on wikipedia to learn how to tune settings. Also kubing on here has a webpage with a nice explanation to help you tune.

Also if each wiper is different they will need different PID settings anyway, even if they were the same they would still probably need different settings.

I'm an electrodynamic tech, so i know the basics of pid. This isn't totally new to me but there is so much variable to take into account, motor speed, homemade frame, game profile... I used the test plugins to tune my pid and my error in jrk app is small on both with the same pid setup. I guess i'm lucky, for example if i take the test plugins and use one value going up and down at full speed, assign it to both motor at the same time, the seat goes up and down straight. And when i take the same slider and i move it myself creating big and fast movement and don't feel any rocking from side to side. Is my way to evaluate the speed of my motors+pid setup a good way to test you think?

Its a good approach to start with altho not mathematically the correct way.
The best way to tune pid would be if you had encoders on your motors that would be the easiest and fastest way to tune, counting encoder clicks and using them as a measure of speed and the difference from when the first motor hits setpoint to the second will give you an idea of which motor to increment and decrement PID settings.
I would start by loading your simulator with an average of max and min weight then start testing and adjust.

Hello, firstly, great job there getting the sim going! I run jrks on my wiper motor sims.
Next, I am not programmer what so ever, but I found the info I needed here.
Big thanks to Eaorobbie and his help.
The test plug in is more to see if the actual x-sim is connecting with the control boards, its not really for testing speed.
OK, PID, try 2/2/ 0/3 1/1,
Max duty cycle 595, max acceleration 595.
I am not sure of my feedback dead zone, I just set the feedback and got going.
Try increasing the max current up a bit if you find thee boards are having an error out issue. I run mine at 22.5 amps max current, I have heatsinks on the big chips and a fan to keep them cool. No problem at all.
Also, read through these threads for more info on the jrk.
conecting-jrk12v12-to-x-sim-t3212.html?hilit=jrk%2012v12
how-do-i-set-software-jrk-12v12-t3138.html?hilit=jrk%2012v12
pololu-jrk-12v12-t2697.html?hilit=%20jrk%2012v12
Hope this helps a bit.
Cheers, David.

Well done mate, a very good start.

PiD as been explained is right, tuning can be fiddley. I run the same as bfst but use 25amp winches and have been thrashing them for 18 months with no problems, tune, play, tune, ya will find the right values for your setup,
my setting are only a base to get it up and running.

Feedback all depends on your quality of pots, i found cheap pots required a high value and lost alot of the small (vibration) movements were lost, bought top of the range 10 turn pots at $40 each the feedback is set to 0 now.
A small test can be done by setting the sim to 2057 in the pololu menu and looking at the scaled feedback value if is contantally floating back and fore then feedback deadzone needs to increased, or if stable ya can lower or zero it.


Since being the first to admit that they work and are easy to setup, the JRK Sims been flowing, welcome to the family.

Thanks everybody! I think a screenshot or the Jrk graph can tell a lot about the Pid settings. If the feedback follow the setpoint well, your pid is tuned right. I'll try to take a screenshot tonight doing a lot of acceleration and braking ( i use another computer for my profiler) . I think my profiles are the problem, more than my pid settings... Are you guys using Iracing? if so i'd like to try your profile if you don't mind.
Yesterday, i tested softth. Man that thing is going to cost me money.... Now i need two more screen! :lol:

Thanks again everybody for the kind welcome, i've been reading this forum for 2-3 year and finnaly deceided to make a move! :yippiee:

Does anybody knows how the triple screens setup works for iracing? I would like to know if i use softth with 3 differents screen, how does it know where each screen start and end? Does it just cut the horizontal resolution in 3 and then generate each picture individually?

So many questions! :

Yes, I can understand how out of hand it gets with money on these things. Still cheaper than buying a built unit. I use the same PID all the time. At least for me it works, so I stick with it.
I have added my profiles for my unit. You can have a fiddle with them and adjust as you like. I mostly play dirt 2 and 3, F1 2010, (use dirt2 pluging), GRID (liveforspeed plugin) and GTR Evolution (race07 plugin).

Anybody knows those card? could they be use with x-sim?
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SyRen50.htm
in the input method it's written simplified serial, packetized serial so i guess there is a way
I just blew another Jrk... don't know what happenned this time ( last time i had a wiper motor with a wire connected to the frame and it fried the usb port on the jrk) those things have lots of fonctions and power but lacks in protection on the usb side i think.

Yeah thats the same type as a sabertooth but single channel whereas the sabertooth is dual channel.

These are very strong powerful motor drivers and the one you chose there is overkill for your needs try looking at a 25 with a 50 overhead.

To use one of these you are still going to need a microcontroller and the programming to go with it for your setup, so not as easy as the self contained JRKs solution.

The sabertooth is part of my current Mo-Sim 3DoF project see here http://www.x-simulator.de/forum/3dof-arduino-sabertooth-4-x-24v-wheelchair-motors-t3425.html. Its is still work in progress but I am getting there its taken a full 2 month inbetween my job of programming so far. I think I may be able to help you out quite easily with a simple 2DoF but will have to wait till my projects finished.

Hello, I have cooked 2 jrk's myself from motors not being isolated grounded. You will need to isolate the motor ground separate from the motor housing BEFORE anything else. That and be very careful wiring everything up. Thats what I had to do, check and double check all wiring was fine. I even powered each motor from 12 volts direct and them put a multimeter on the frame to test if any power was going through it.
Check these posts for isolating ground on a wiper motor.
isolating-a-wiper-motor-ground-t3358.html?hilit=isolate%20ground
wiper-ground-isolation-confirmation-needed-t3151.html?hilit=isolate%20ground
wiper-ground-t3139.html?hilit=isolate%20ground&start=10
A suggestion would be to NOT OPEN the motor case housing unless it is an absolute last resort. Opening the motor housing will disturb the brushes, and you may bugger up the motor. Cut the wires going into the motor first and apply power and test that way.

:
I just blew my g25..... :thbd: Windows still install the device , buttons work, pedal works but not the wheel. So it looks like a powersupply problem. Tested my p.s. and a good 24v at the end of it. I openned it and with nothing hooked to the main board except the power supply i get almost 0 v. The supply gets dragged to ov when i plugge it. My diagnostique is the main board is dead but do you know something else i could try? I will ask one of my friend to bring is g27 power supply to try . Anybody has a g25 with blown motor but good electronics? If not what option should i consider? I know leo bodnar has a ffb board for diy wheel, the new forza wheel could be good too, maybe the thustmaster or a g27.... Anyway i need your advice :

How much can you afford to spend? Thats the question.
For me, I use a Driving force GT, because I cannot afford a G27.

It could be the power supply, it's possible to measure an output on it but for this to disappear as soon as it's connected to anything.. It's possible it could be the logic board or one of the motors. If the motor is shorting or the driver has blown (which it probably has if there is a fault on the motor) then this would try and pull too much current from the power supply and the supply's internal circuitry would immediately shutdown.

If you try your friends power supply then try it very briefly, just in case the problem on your G25 causes his power supply to fail. Move the wheel back and forth a little while someone switches the mains power on. If you can't immediately feel any resistance then knock the power off.

For a replacement take a look at eBay and see what's about or what comes up over the next few days. If you can find one with a good wheel but duff pedals then all the better as this will go for less. You could also put a wanted posting on a few of the forums.

Best of luck ...

Ok did all the test i could but no luck, g25 is dead... but now i need your help. I found a used g27 and a brand new fanatec porche 911 Rs V2. The price for the G27 is 230$ and has about 20 hours of play on it and the Porche is brand new in a box with the clubsport pedal for 300$. Wich one should i buy?
I would like to know wich wheel you would choose and why.

Thanks for taking the time

look up reviews of both items and also look at youtube videos to get an idea as well.
I have only used Logitech Wheels. They work well.
Others here may have an opinion as well. :hi:

Quick update on my wheel . I deceided to buy the fanatec porsche 911 gtrs v2 with the clubsport pedal. The guy who sold it to me is a lucky man, he bought one kit and he received two!!! the one i bought from him was not even opened, and i think 300$ is a fair price considering the pedals alone is 200 plus shipping. Small review: pedals = great :thbup: and i wasn't sure of the feedback of the wheel at first but i'm getting use to it and in iracing it does wonders. ( not so much in dirt since the wheel seems to be smoother so the small bumps and ground shacking effects are less present). Maybe i will play with the setups and i may change my mind on dirt...

Now my next question is about iwrap.
I can make it work, sort of, but the motion ( wich is controlled by another computer) seems to be really laggy and not responsive at all... Anyone knows how to set this up? :

Thanks M.Sirnonname! I had read such things somewhere in the forums but i could not find any profile ( or whatever it is called to controlled the wheel). If i'm not mistaken i think Nima did some test and he said the profiles were good with Rfactor. Does anybody knows where to find such profile or how to manage FFB with x sim? I do understand how to do a profile but not how to do a good one!!! :

Does anybody tried THud with clubsport pedal? It's supposed to add the vibration in the brake pedal for Iracing.

I know some people uses iwrap, can anybody experience some difference between the original xsim plugin and the plugin compatible with iwrap? Then i want to add ispeed and thud.

One last question.... does anybody has a simple gauge for iracing on a 10 inch display. ( shift light, speed, lap time)