My 2dof simulation project (with wood and 3d printing)

Hi all. I started to build my 2dof some weeks ago but during the holidays I have progressed a little bit.

I have used wood (from recycled pallets) and PLA. These are the tools I have in my appartment and I think they are enough.

The universal joint is made up of 2 8mm steel rods, wood and some 3d printed parts that work as mounted bearings (I will change them by mounted bearings in the future.

The motor crank is also 3d printed. My wipers have a dented cone but de did not bring the crank, so I had to design one (magenta piece)

I also chose regluar 10k pots which I fix them an aluminium flat bar and 3d printing parts (black parts), a cap for the axis nut and a holder for the pot.




I still need to tame SMC3 not to go beyond limits and break the pot holder.


I attach the stls in case you are interested.

Hi Issalig, are you using wood and bolts as your u-joint? will it hold?

I am using 8mm steel rods instead of bolts, but bolts could also work. I have not tested my setup in real conditions. I just tried with 12 kg. I think the biggest issue could be the 3d printed "bearings" but I will soon replace them with mounted bearings as you did in https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...d-compact-motion-platform-for-msfs-wip.19126/.

Check this video:



This guy did the u-joint out of plastic, then it broke and he had one welded.

Mine is also based on pillow bearings and then i use wood as flanges - i'm still building it, I weigh 95 kgs and hear the wood creaking when i sit - and the sim platform is not yet finished yet.

Nice video. Mine also creaks (as an old ship) even with the 12kg (water jugs). I don't have a metal welder so I will still go wood and maybe use an ujoint from a car.

Now I am deciding if the crank-rod angle should be bigger and almost 90 or just leave it in this 70 something.

Thanks @noorbeast , I was thinking also this but a lot of designs show angles with less than 90 and I was just curious. I will change it to 90.

Meanwhile I have designed a pcb to avoid the protoboard.

Currently it has this layout, with an aux button, oled header, scaler, and RC filter if needed.
It has a prototyping area for last minute crazy ideas.
It is also posible to power IBTs from VIN (do not exceed 5V) or arduino regulated 5V
It supports arduino UNO or Nano

The order is already sent to JLCPCB and will be here in about 10-15 days.

when i was experimenting with that motor i 3d printed a new back plate to mount the pot and used the nut on the bearing to spin the pot. it was an easy design even with my limited skill at the time. if i find the motor i will post a pic.

That would be great.
Is it something similar to this but using pots?
Minute 22:58
youtu.be/D7hkFh4uhMo?t=1378

It was an easy design in tinkercad

Which motor are you using? I am using a topran 108792, the one that used to be in VW Polo and others but I think it is not easy to enlarge the shaft and make it on the other side.


Anyway I have designed a dxf with the contour of the backplate and I attach it here.

looks like different motors. do the contacts have to stay on the back plate? you may be able to design a coupler to glue on to the round nub and remake the back plate with a hole like i did but if the contacts have to stay it may be a bit harder

No, these are for short, long or continuous movement of the wipers.

I think you could do something similar to what I did then with tinkercad.

Well, I am doing it with Openscad and qcad

A crown that fits onto the gear, an adapter that joins the crown and the pot crank, and the backplate. Quite a long journey of designing but I enjoyed it.

i will definitely be trying those programs as tinkercad lacks some features i want but fusion has to steep of a learning curve. your model already looks more polished then mine good job.