Showroom Obutto Ozone 2DOF to 3DOF simulator conversion

Hey everyone I've been soaking up all the knowledge in the forums and I think I'm ready to place my parts order.

I plan on cloning this project: thanks to @Erwan960 for an awesome post on his project.

I'll be using a Obutto Ozone frame from my current setup. The monitors will be removed and static mounted until my Oculus Rift DK2 arrives in August. Long term plans include a 3dof drift add-on but lets not get ahead of ourselves..

Current setup being converted.


Current Parts list w/links:
2x Motors : GEAR MOTOR 12v 150/160 rpm 25:1 ratio - $208
2x Power Supplies: HP DL380 Server Power Supplies - $29.95
2x Controllers: Pololu JRK 12V12 - $204
2x Pots: https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70153381 - $34.75
1x Universial joint from drive shaft: $30

Would love some feedback on the parts list. What is the difference between the non-contact pots I'm using vs a 10k pot in this link?

If need be I can convert the 25:1 to something higher like 50:1 but I was impressed with what @Erwan960's build did on 25:1 and didn't want to loose speed.

Hello and welcome, if you are going motors at front like @Erwan960 , you best make a motor connection that is as high as you can at the front to overcome centre of gravity and weight. That will help you keep the speed on a 25:1 box.
something like I did here. It moved 130kg driver easy because pivot was a long way from motors and the actual connection of the motor to frame was up a bit. if you can do higher, you will get excellent results

Difference between non contact pots (hall effects) and traditional wire wounds is one dosent make contact, and one does. But as we found out unless you use expensive hall effects like @BlazinH has $140 each I think , best use a good quality wire wound 360 deg continuous turn single turn pot $35 each. mount them directly on the back of the motor shaft.
The cheaper hall effects didnt stand the abuse we put them through

Failing that, mount at shoulders at rear
everything else looks good so far.
Cheers, David.

A simple seat mover would be a quick and exciting add on to the existing rig, this is why I designed this for this purpose.
So you don't loose all the hard effort you have already put into your rig.

or do that as well

Thanks for the fast feedback. @bsft is there a recommended length or max length on the bar from the motor to the rig mount point?

Is this what you are referring too by hook up higher than the pivot point?


@eaorobbie I've been considering your option as well. Either way I think I plan on building both as I have access to two ozone rigs so I just need to decide which one to build first. I like the simplicity of the seat mover but it will take more research on my part I'm not as familiar with it as I am the platform design.

In your diagram what is the PVC part where the 75mm gap is?

I need to search around the forums and find a good similar project for seat movers I can reference.

Ok the PVC section is from the original static rig that I copied from insideSimracing to show users there who to bring motion to life in their existing frames.


This picture shows why the gap is there.


Side shows the basic layout, the seat ends up back in its original position, now has motion thou.
Pro's for this means your screens, pedals and everything else stays where you had it.
Platforms feel really arcade to me. Had several and wont go back unless I'm building a flight sim but that's my personal preference.

@bsft had mentioned a higher mount point would be easier on motors.

For the sake of learning...

With the original platform design with motors in the front.

If you moved the motors from the front to the back in a seat mover configuration with the mount points on the back of the chair but kept the entire platform in tack would that work better than the front mount design? I guess that is pretty much a joyrider design?

Thanks for all the advice!

This is the prime position for the full platform idea, yes spot on.
But not a joyrider totally different style sim, self centring , separate gimbal for each axis, its basically a seatmover with pedals attached like my original.



This was powered with winches and the other software but is an example of what ya looking for I feel.

heres more the idea if you go front motor mount.

or another example

For full frame you need to get the motors up as high as you can
There is not set length of a bar from motors to frame, it can be 10mm or 1m long. The main point of concern is where they mount on the frame. Higher the better, hence shoulder mount at rear is overall best, however, motors towards front will work as well, but mount the connections as high as you can.
Now to have a think what may suit you best...

Alright. I've never done any welding before so making a pivot point was all new to me. I grabbed my grandfather and just went for it.

I ended up with a Land Rover Discovery rear drive shaft and I pulled the ujoint out of the shaft while removing it from the package. As I stared at it I thought, maybe I can avoid having to do any cutting.

I picked up a one of those dirt pounders from a local hardware store and got the two joined together. I wasn't thrilled with the pitch the the ujoint offered but I figured I can always grab another drive shaft if this one doesn't work.

$25 shipped: Drive Shaft (eBay)
$28: Dirt Pounder (True Value)



I just put my order in for 2x motors / 2x jrk 12v12. I just need to find some decent pots to use that I can get shipped in the US.

Anyone have experience with Bourns? I'm open to any recommendations that I can easily order online.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/62K3214-Bou...477?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a91f35105

looks good on welding.
Why a 10 turn pot?
Single continuous turn will do it fine.

I was assuming it had to do with resolution or something. Not sure what the k even means. It's on my list of to things to learn more about. I saw from the other thread a 5k would do as well?

the recommended pot by Pololu is a 4.7kohm rated, so 5-10 k ohm is fine.
As for turns and resolution, if you use 180 deg on a 360 deg pot, thats about 1/2 the travel and better resolution.
if you use 10 turns and only 1/2 of 1 turn that greatly reduces resolution of the pot.
I mounted a single turn directly on the back of the motor, which is the preferred mounting these days.

Pretty sure this is similar to what your recommending. Just ran into two of them.

Nevermind I found the model you use. For those in the US. Here are links to 5k and 10k versions at $13.15 with $6 dollar shipping per order.

Bourns 10k
https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70153381

Bourns 5k
https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70153380

thats cheap!

Awesome job with the re purposing of the Dirt pounder. Looks All too familiar to what my Welder come up with for me.


I will be lookin into Motionizing a buddy Obbutto Revolution near the end of summer so will be paying close attention to how you go about this build.

M

I end up doing crazy things on my iPhone on this site, random posts and down voted something the other day and had no idea haha.

My brother has a revolution and we will be doing that next. Both have perfect setups to just slide a seat mover up to it. I think the rev is way to front heavy to platform mount but you never know. I'm still going back and forth on full platform or seat mover I might try both and then decide. My boys 2 and 5 would enjoy the roller coaster game so I'm leaning towards platform test first since I can always take it apart and start over.

Lol was wondering what that previous post was about.....

ill be needing to do a Seat mover for buddys revolution. Hes Not exactly a small guy like me