Do not share user accounts! Any account that is shared by another person will be blocked and closed. This means: we will close not only the account that is shared, but also the main account of the user who uses another person's account. We have the ability to detect account sharing, so please do not try to cheat the system. This action will take place on 04/18/2023. Read all forum rules.
Dismiss Notice
For downloading SimTools plugins you need a Download Package. Get it with virtual coins that you receive for forum activity or Buy Download Package - We have a zero Spam tolerance so read our forum rules first.

Buy Now a Download Plan!
Do not try to cheat our system and do not post an unnecessary amount of useless posts only to earn credits here. We have a zero spam tolerance policy and this will cause a ban of your user account. Otherwise we wish you a pleasant stay here! Read the forum rules
We have a few rules which you need to read and accept before posting anything here! Following these rules will keep the forum clean and your stay pleasant. Do not follow these rules can lead to permanent exclusion from this website: Read the forum rules.
Are you a company? Read our company rules

Shared accounts will be removed Plugin Downloads Zero spam policy Forum Rules

Building Resources

Page 1 of 2

Here you will find tips and tricks designed to save you time, money and frustration

Video guide to building a 2DOF with wiper motors, Arduino, IBT2 and SMC3

Here is a video guide by @Halloween2go on how to build a a 2DOF with wiper motors, Arduino, IBT2 and SMC3: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...-project-windshield-wiper-arudino-ibt2.16444/

: #391

Wormdrive Backlash

All worm gearboxes are going to have some backlash, for lubrication purposes, and the longer the lever CTC the more noticeable the free play is.

A slight positive weight pre-load on the levers, rather than a perfectly balanced rig, will help make the backlash a little less noticeable.

Linear actuators are an alternate and are more efficient and you can build your own: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/diy-linear-actuators.248/

This is about average wormdrive backlash and the greater the lever CTC the more noticeable it will be:

Credit @noorbeast: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/bastiuschas-2dof-project.10083/page-4#post-146320

: #293

Protecting PSUs

Most use one PSU per motor to avoid issues.

Some use diodes to protect PSUs: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...er-supply-dps-2000bb-a.6709/page-3#post-76105

Here @BlazinH suggests using a bridge rectifier instead, with @insanegr kindly confirming the wiring: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...ors-mms-and-arduinos.6948/page-31#post-117116

You can alternatively wire a bridge rectifier to double its stated amperage capacity with the only trade off being that the power supplies are no longer protected if you mistakenly connect its power leads backwards: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...ors-mms-and-arduinos.6948/page-31#post-117151

: #255

Measuring Motor Stall Current

Here is a handy overview by @Tim McGuire on how to measure motor stall current: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...motors-stall-current-safely.9188/#post-116112

[IMG]

: #252

How to choose potentiometer

Both standard potentiometers and Hall Sensors are commonly used in DIY motion simulators.

With Arduino, prefer 10k pots

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=14852.msg109078#msg109078

See the comments here regarding choosing a potentiometer or Hall Sensor: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/how-to-choose-potentiometer.8251/

See here for different ways to mount and protect potentiometers and Hall Sensors: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/how-to-connect-protect-a-potentiometer.13/

: #238

Modify electric jack motors for sim use

Access to affordable DC motors for motion simulation can be problematic in some parts of the world.

One possible alternative to popular worm gear DC motors is to use cheap and more readily available electric jacks, with a simple mod as explained by @mariano68: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/2dof-foot-mount-sim-powered-by-12v-electric-jacks.7601/

[IMG]

: #212

How to attach lever / crank / arm to motor shaft?

here is a list of ideas
yours
Mat

► Thomconcept

► ring shaft retainer
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000571545047.html
3€ many size available
just bolt your arm (the screw head are conviently hidden into the counterbore holes)
ring shaft retainer.png

► on shelves product:

► DIY
from richardcreation

from egoexpress

► Bike Crank Arm => only for Ø23,7mm shaft
https://www.google.ch/search?q=hollowtech+crank
Mountain Bike Left Crank Arm for SHIMANO amazon 20$
aliexpress Hollow Bicycle Left Crank Arm Mainly for SHIMANO 14€

[IMG]

► Wormdrive gearboxes can be hollow shaft or solid shaft, so the approach to attaching levers is different.

For solid shaft gearboxes that are keywayed @noorbeast suggests the easiest way to attach a lever is to grab the correct sized and length Mild Steel, Black Oxide Plating Rigid Couplings, which have the keyway and grub screws, and just weld the lever on the end: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/using-chinese-actuators.7304/page-3#post-86033

[IMG]

Another option for solid shaft motors are these bolt on flanges: https://www.robotshop.com/nl/en/14mm-set-screw-key-steel-hub.html

As @Nick Moxley explains with hollow shaft motors you can use the correct sized threaded rod through the hollow shaft and weld nuts to it to secure the levers: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/using-chinese-actuators.7304/page-2#post-85902

[IMG]

: #182

Traction Loss

: #174

Cable Management

Cable management is one of those things that can get overlooked in our excitement to get our rigs moving, but is vital to both safety and ensuring we are not creating problems for ourselves with shorts or crossed wires when hooking up PSUs, control boards and motors.

Here is a handy thread on different member ideas to make cable management as easy as possible: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/chaos-wiring.6310/#post-82068

[IMG]

: #166

DC winch motors for motion simulators

Access to affordable DC motors for motion simulation can be problematic in some parts of the world.

One possible alternative to popular worm gear DC motors are DC winch motors. Winch motors are generally universally available and affordable. Check out @Pit's advice regarding the Pros and Cons of using winch motors: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...raction-loss-finished.5276/page-12#post-79142

@Pit has also provided information and this video to show the noise level and responsiveness of winch motors, go to 1:10 in the video where the sound of the simulator is compared to spoken words: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/how-loud-are-winches-video-inside.6934/

Winches can be noisy, here @xytras provides an example of a 2000lb 153:1 winch unloaded, which turns at 32RPM: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...ch-motors-and-steering-boxes.6937/#post-79556

@Ben V took a different route and tested using just the winch motor in conjunction with 25:1 steering boxes with 93 degrees total travel, with the measurered stall torque being 3.5 Nm and the free winch motor speed of 4420 rpm: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...ch-motors-and-steering-boxes.6937/#post-79343

[IMG]

: #151

3D Printing

Honeycomb fan air straighteners by @Avenga76: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/members/avenga76.10691/

Modified snap on honeycomb fan air straighteners by @HoiHman: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...ermoto-and-arduinouno.6876/page-9#post-114138

Moto Monster ventilated box by @Avenga76: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...ermoto-and-arduinouno.6876/page-7#post-113677

Moto Monster ventilated box with internal fan by @Avenga76: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...ermoto-and-arduinouno.6876/page-9#post-114400

Combined 3D printed Arduino case with dual Motor Monster wings by @stevemontuno : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1510217/#files

Moto Monster slide on 80mm fan holder by @HoiHman: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...rmoto-and-arduinouno.6876/page-10#post-114424

3D printed file for custom All in one 3 X PSU and JRK Cooler Master Elite Case Mod: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/all-in-one-3-x-psu-and-jrk-cooler-master-elite-case-mod.199/

Download 3D files by @rundmg here: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...f-simulator-conversion.5914/page-4#post-89608

3D quick release steering wheel hub by @RacingMat: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/3d-printed-quick-release.6360/#post-70710

If you like your creature comforts then here is a cup holder and bracket by @HoiHman: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/drinking-cup-cupholder.9103/

Below is a summary of a diverse range of 3D Printed objects made available by @Ville Pesonen in one package: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/2dof-motion-simulator-build.6196/page-7#post-88219

CapHolder
It's basically a mount for a nut that you can screw to somewhere.

Case:
Never managed to print this...

Diode Holder:
I used this to keep 2 diodes in place to stop reverse current reaching the PSU's

Gas spring mount:
Part to hold gas spring in place. It clamps around 30x30mm tube

HBridge Holder:
You can screw a cheap chinese H bridge to this

MonsterMoto holder
You can screw monster moto shield to this

Coulus Camera holder:
This part slips inside 30x30mm tube and has a hole in the middle for a camera mount screw.

Potentiometer connector
just a tube that goes over the potentiometers shaft and can be glued to the shaft of a motor

Potentiometer holder:
I used this to mount potentiometers next to the motor. the holes are in line with the motor mount holes. I can't remember the model of the motor that I have...you can find it somewhere in this build thread.

PsuHolder
Never used this, but it was meant to hold the psus in place.

SwitchHolder
little part to hold a power switch in place

: #129

What Fuse do you need?

Fuses are cheap insurance.

A simple but effective way to work out what size fuse to use when there are so many different motor, PSU and control board combinations...grab a bunch of different size fuses, started with the larger one and decrease the fuse size until you find the point at which a fuse blows. The one used previous to that is what you should be running.

Credit goes to @Pit and @RacingMat: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...-meter-to-test-current-loads-no-problem.6064/

Or for more precision you can actually measure the current load as @Martin van Hagen suggests with a shunt: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...est-current-loads-no-problem.6064/#post-80950

: #111

Heim & Rose joint conical spacers

When using heim and rose joints for connecting rods some sort of conical spacer is recommended to allow the full range of possible motion.

DIY conical nut by @Ken50: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/attachments/dsc_0025-jpg.20442/

Cone spacers by @cthiggin: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...wered-heim-or-rod-end-joints.5336/#post-52984

High misalignment spacers by @boosted-lt1: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...-spacers-increasing-ball-joint-rotation.6801/

Commercial conical spacers: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=STEEL CONE SPACER HEIM&_sacat=0

Metric: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od...0mm.TRS0&_nkw=rose+joint+SPACER+10mm&_sacat=0

There is no need for spacers if traditional tie rod ends are used and for a set of 4 at a bargain price @Nick Moxley recommends these: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs...ight-hand-tie-rod-end-bearing/1559309095.html

: #72

DIY Actuators

Carbon Fiber actuators by @SeatTime: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/seattimes-6dof-dc-build.6106/page-2#post-70265

Modified CFF actuators by @bsft: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-actuators-plans-by-ian-bff-shortened-by-me.5279/

Belt drive linear actuators posted by @RacingMat: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...kickstarts-a-linear-actuator.5274/#post-51851

OpenBuild linear actuator posted by @telfel, note subsequent thread discussion on better motors being needed: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...th-a-bunch-of-stroke-options.6750/#post-75326

: #71

Guide to setting Feedback on 50:1 and 60:1 gearbox motors

If a motion simulator design uses 50 or 60:1 gearboxes then it is a challenge to set up the potentiometers, as you can't move the gearbox by hand.

These are the steps @Archie uses: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/setting-feedback-on-50-1-60-1-boxes.9116/

Here is @bsft's approach: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...er-gs-4-simvibe-gauges.5596/page-7#post-68521

: #58

Emergency Stop Switch - Wiring

An emergency stop switch is a useful safety addition to any simulator.

How you wire an emergency stop switch depends a little on what things it is shutting down, see here for details and some wiring options: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/emergency-stop-switch-wiring.5132/

You can also modify a single emergency stop switch for multiple PSU powered circuits, as outlined here by @Nick Moxley and @Archie: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...ountdown-to-2dof-build.6177/page-5#post-71027

For SCN actuators see @nclabs guide to wiring an emergency stop switch: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/scn5-wiring-tutorial.5566/

For the AMC-AASD15A see the wiring details here: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/peacemakers-6dof-unicorn-build.12523/page-5#post-201686

For VFDs @speedy regards emergency stop switchs as essential, see here for details: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...-ac-platform-it-begins.5141/page-7#post-52043

: #56

Find the Center Of Gravity to balance a motion simulator

Do make sure both yourself and all peripherals like wheel and pedals are already installed
before determining the COG for your motion simulator.

No need of maths to find the center of gravity: just a round pipe and a friend to help to balance your motion simulator
Make sure the pipe is orthogonal to the side

http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/from-atoz-2dof-arduino-wiper-playseat.4616/#post-45417

: #55

How to Modify Server Power Supplies as cheap powerful PSUs

Server power supplies are cheap to buy on Ebay and make powerful PSUs to drive DC motors for motion simulators.

The Ultimate Server PSU Thread - cheap and great PSUs successfully tested by members of xsimulator.net http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/the-ultimate-power-supply-thread-for-sim-builders.6793/

This original tutorial by @Slider on modifying HP Server PSUs also contains subsequent posts by @RacingMat and @Nick Moxley on how to modify Dell 2950 PSUs: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/how-to-modify-a-server-power-supply-for-12v.5774/

Even more powerful 2000 watt server PSUs can be modified, as outlined by @Pit, just be aware there are cooling and house wiring safety matters to consider: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/2000-watts-server-supply-dps-2000bb-a.6709/

Some people use 24V DC motors for their motion simulators. Server PSUs can be wired in parallel as outlined here by @benj, but do not ignore the safety warning by @kirk on the same thread regarding not removing A/C ground: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/wiring-server-psus-in-parallel.6251/

: #54

How to connect & protect a potentiometer?

You will damage a potentiometer if it exceeds its stops. To avoid the problem @Alexey worked out how to remove the stop and hence potentially save a pot: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/how-to-remove-the-end-stop-in-a-potentiometer.7198/

Another option to avoid breakage is to use highly accurate Hall Sensors: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/hall-effect-potentiometer.4948/

Keep in mind to prevent applying (shear) forces onto the pot
The best way to achieve this, is to mount the pot's support onto the motor itself.
@dedas made a simple solution to connect the pot to the axle of the motor by using a piece of rubber hose (oil) with 2 clamps.
Its flexible and works fine.

@Pit advises the use of standard "elastic coupling" or "flexible coupler" with @Nick Moxley recommending these:

12mm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3pc.../1636922680.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.rghwGK

12.7mm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3pc...o-12-7mm-Stepper-Motor-Shaft/32342989653.html

@Erwan960:

@bsft : Also on the back of a motor shaft, I set up in this case a single turn 360 deg pot so if the lever goes over, the pot doesnt break.

or with gears to use the full range of potentiometer

@eaorobbie suggest (if enough room), a simple lever connection:

or this from this post:

@RacingMat : it's important to avoid applying forces on the potentiometer. The bracket has to be flexible! and mounted on the motor itself

@noorbeast :

manually M8 tapped shaft

Note:
- with potentiometer, if you wish the best resolution, you have to gear!
- but with hall sensor (contactless potentiometer) like 6127V1A from BI TECH/TT ELECTRONICS,
you can choose 45° (90°, 180°) giving equivalent resolution but without gears
(Resolution: 0.088° for 360° travel, 0.011° for 45° travel )

_____________

You can solder connecting wires directly to the pot pins, with a video tutorial being found here:

Alternatively you can crimp a small slotted blade connector around the pot pin then solder, as @noorbeast explains here: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...ttach-to-these-pin-terminals.6892/#post-78217

[IMG]

____________________________________

linear to circular F.B. by @speedy ...
Concept :
converting the linear 2m. tape movement into a circular rotation that can be measured by the 10 turns FB pot ...
Components :
-2 m. spring measuring tape .
-10k Ohm 10 turns pot .
-Suitable dial knob for the pot axle attaching .
-Hot glue gun [epoxy resin is preferred] .
step 1- after taking apart the tape ... make a big hole of a bigger diameter than the knob on the "spring free" plastic side .

step 2- spare the plastic center hole for reattaching the "center spring screw support" back in place .

step 3- [ The tricky part ] cover the center with a little grease [ Vaseline ] ... Glue the knob centered on top of the rotating wheel " Note that the center screw is fixed to main stationary body and will not be glued with the knob " ...

step 4- Attach and Aline the metal tape start point to the actuator mechanism and calibrate the FB pot turns to the motion range correct length ...
Then tighten the FB axle to the knob side set screw ... then you'll have a linear to circular F.B. that can be used in any place
If you like going into corners in your actuator design use an old adhesive wheel support to corner the metal tape .

Use busted measuring tapes for decoration.8_thumb[6].jpg

_________________________________

: #13

Wiper motor => mandatory ground isolation

Follow the advice of @bsft or you will fry your Hbridge
ground isolation is mandatory!

Explanations:
it's mandatory because with 2 motors connected to ground, when the Hbridge will drive one motor reverse and the other forward, the 12V and 0V will be connected together through the structure
-> short-circuit!

@Zed: You actually want to disconnect the ground for use with H bridges. The whole reason to use an H bridge is to be able to reverse motor polarity so so it goes the other direction. When you reverse the polarity of the applied power, the motor frame can become “energized”. If it is mounted to a metal frame with another motor powered up the other polarity, you get a short from power to ground and can blow electronics. I used energized/power and ground to denote polarities, but it’s also +/- or however you want to think of it. In a car, the motors that use their frames as a connector all just run one way.

@bsft: from here

With wipers, a large passenger car is usually good or a small truck , but use 12v for 12v. DO NOT USE 24v motors on 12v, all you do is half the speed and half the power. Waste of time.
Yes you do need to earth isolate the metal body of the motor as well.

Follow @eaorobbie picture:
[IMG]

@insanegr: from here

in your case as someone said before you have to find which is ground - low speed- and high speed and mark them.(you don't need low speed at all only high speed) [IMG]

then test with a multimeter(buzzer Ω) that you don't have any contact between the case (body of motor) and three cables.if you don't hear anything you are OK if you hear the buzzer on the multimeter you have to isolate the motors.
1.get your motor [IMG]

2. open it [IMG]

3. find the brush that's connected on the body [IMG]

4. cut it

5. solder a wire directly on the brush [IMG]

6.close it and you are done [IMG]

: #25