Showroom 2 Dof DC Motor Rig with Item Profile

Hello,
no Problem. I don't know if you are fammilar how to export a 2d image with proportions out of Sketchup.

I'll explain it short:
1. Go to Camera -> Parallel Projection
2. Got to Camera -> Standart Views -> Left or right(depends on which motorholder you use)
3. Click on Zoom extends.

Now you go to print and deselect "Fit to Page" and "Use model extends" and look that the numbers in "In the printout" and "In sketchup" are the same. Now you print it and get a 2d print like this.


I made for each part a seperate layer so you can hide the others easyly.
The design is for a aluminium profil with 130x80x6mm.

The profile arrived to me today. I hope i have enough time tomorrow to build the 2 holders. I'll post Pictures of the finished Holders.

As promised, an overview of brackets laser cut. More pictures here : http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-2dof-simulator.4793/page-8#post-69018

Hello,
i like your design very much, i hope i had seen this before start building my holders
How much did you pay for lasercutting?

Here is some process from my holders. I must clean up the little edge and drill bigger holes for screw mounting. At the end i paint all this in black like the motors.


Sorry for the bad image quality I'll make better ones when the holders are finished.

I also made some process with my lever arms. I must fix out one problem. The tube is a regular 25 mm steel tube, with 20mm inner diameter, so not fitting 100% The M8 screw threw the hole is also not fitting 100%. So the construction is a little bit instable at the moment. I must think about it for good solution that i can make with my tools here.



Thanks for noorbeast for the idea of the flexible mounting points They are in 40/60/80 mm

maybe a litte screw like this and a second hole just a little bit into the shaft to give more stability?

Maybe a shim or packer to make it a nice tight fit then a grub screw like you have pictured to help lock it all in place.

Hi,
i tried do meassure the distane today. The tube is about 0.3mm wider than the shaft.
I don't know how a shim would be fitting there. And i can't find out what a packer is.

Thanks for telling me how the screw in the picture is named in english.

thin sheet metal wrapped on the shaft perhaps would fill the gap

I would suggest Ali from a soda can normally about 0.25-0.4mm thick.

As guys are saying , You need to Crush/wrap/squish Something in there to fill that void.

Thanks for your helpful posts. I think i thought a little bit to complex
Will try the alu can method.

thats what she said

Thanks, i used a bit of mountain dew alu can and wraped it around the shaft one time. It's now very thight and fits like a charm.
Thank you.

After reading a little bit more about the position feedback methods, i think of getting some hall effet pots. I have here some very nice vishay cermet pots from my previous project. But they will have a 270° rotation, so for best resolution i have to mess up with gears or something.

I found out that mots of you are using the "6127V1A360L.5FS" Model which is very hard to find for me in germany. I found it at one side but a little bit expensive. There are also other pots of this series avalible like "6127V1A340L.5" https://hbe-shop.de/Art-2319665-BI-...S-6127V1A340L5-HALLSENSOR-02V-20V-BIS-10V-PIN
from the specs they look the same. I can't see any difference.
Here is a overview of all hall pots in this shop https://hbe-shop.de/navi.php?k=55050&suche=&hf=0&Sortierung=3&af=0

Will this 15€ one also be compatible?

Edit: i found at bottom of datasheet that this pot hast 340 degrees instead of 360. So i will have 170° of leaver can move that should be enough. So they would be suitable i hope.

Also what did you think about those auotmatik fuse switches like this?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/60A-Automati...71398125?pt=Kabel_Stecker&hash=item462b2297ed

I think about getting one for each Monstermoto

Levers that move more than 90 deg will not produce a motion cue that is true to the motion. It changes from a linear movement , which is what we want to an unbalanced movement. As in the sim barely moves at the extreme points like the lever might go through 15 deg and the sim will barely move.

For racing I use a total of 80 mm of movement this is ample enough to move my head (not the chair) more than 300mm from side to side and 200mm forward to backward. More than enough considering you rarely get thrown around in a car that much as in you are proberly about to crash and die, lol
The 80mm is spread on a 65mm c/c lever at about 80 deg of movement , which the Jrk can accurately hit min and max in under 1ms. About 700mm/s motion. For racing this the figure I have found to give off that WOW motion.

Hello,
thanks for that nice reply. But the is something unclear to me. I know that i dont net 180° of movement of the lever. You are saying you use only 80°° so if leaver is in middle position you mean 40° up and 40° down? If so why most of you use the 360° hall effect pots?
If i understand all right, you can only use one half of the potmovement in your sim. So when byuing a 360° pot i can use 180° Is that right?
So if i take the 320° hall pot i have 160° of pot movment i can use. So i will get more accuracity because i use more of the potrange.
So best for 80°lever movvement would be a 160° hall effect pot? Or is this wrong?

So this one with 180° will be the best? Or I'm totally on the wrong way?
https://hbe-shop.de/Art-2319662-BI-...6127V1A180L5FS-HALLSENSOR-02V-20V-BIS-10V-PIN

For the fuse switch i find some reviews where people not recommend using it. I'll take this one instead. I'll install a 45-50A fuse.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/400846999738

Guys like myself and robbie who are using the 40 UP and 40 Down, Are using 180 deg hall effect's, NOT 360.

Thanks,
so i will go with the 180° ones.
Since i wan't to build a controller box, where are all cables are removable, i searched for some good connectors for my Pots.
i found this one. It has 4 pins, but it doesn't matter to me i'll only use 3.
They are named "Binder Series 711".


I get this 2 connectors very cheap at ebay. 5€ for two of them. http://www.ebay.de/itm/291185755895?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I only had do buy the terminals at another shop for regular price, and they are 5€ each.

http://www.esto-stecker.de/binder-flanschdose-serie-711.html

I'm also thinking currently about how to mount my power cables to the Monstermoto shields. I don't want to use this tiny screw terminals. Did you all solder them directly to the board?
Because I'm using 6mm² cables, i think this woll look very ugly.
Also the pins for powersupply are very near each other so this will be tricky with 6mm² cables.
If i'm shure how to connect them i'll make some tests with smc3 and arduino, since my motorholders and pot mount is nearly finished.

Thank you very much for the model and info on how to print it with proprotions. I'll have to start to look for some metal/aluminium profile now to start with the build.

Hi,
no problem. I just forgot to tell you that there is an easyer way to print in the right proportions. Because if you do it like i descriped above, sometimes it will split your model on to several pages.

Just go to export as pdf ,click properties, and in proportions mark 1:1. Than you can open it with any pdf programm like adobe or foxitreader and print it.
But the camera settings have to been done too.

So in the last days I realized my pot holders and motor Cables.
Motor and Pot holders are not finished now.

The pot holders are made out of a piece acrylic glas i had laying around. I bend this 90° with a headgun.



My Motorcables are 6mm² cables at one and there is a 9,5mm cable shoe to connect to the motors, at the other end there is a 6,3mm cable shoe to connect with other electronics.
In the middle there is a ec5 connector from modelcraft ratet for 120A continous current
http://www.ebay.de/itm/151186271533?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



For the connection to my Hp dsp 600 PB i made some cables too.
They are made out of 6mm² cable too and have 2 male cable shoes at the end, bended to fit in the psu

First i have stripped the wire and divide it in the middle I bended the two ends to the side and drilled them.


Now i crimped two female cableshoes onto the two ends I don't know exact size, i had them layin around.



The two ends where bended to fit into the psu. I tinned them with some solder to give them more stability. After that I isolatet them with some shrinktupe and isolationtape.



Maybe interesting for someone. I bought a new tool for cable stripping. I'm very happy with it and it works properbly for all cables. I tried from 6mm² till 0,14mm² and the result is always perfect. You can although strip multiple wires at once.
I've you don't have one, buy this!




Here a little video

Interesting way of using the Dual tabs to click into the PSU, I would however caution to Ensure your Wiring Cannot move or be unplugged for any reason. I would rather see a Soldered joint Vs a Plug of sorts. Also why the need for the Blue 3.5mm ec5 bullets AND the Tabs ?

Love the idea for the pot holder! brilliant! Gonna steal that.