Simulated Wind using MonsterMoto and ArduinoUno

@SilentChill all is working fine, successfully tested using a VNH5019 motor driver. Only the MATH is still out of function for me, tried different settings like

MATH * 2
or
math * 2
or
MATH * 0.8

etc...
but the fans does not respond to the speed of the car. Any suggestions?

When driving AC without the MATH all is fine, but the max. value 255 stands for km/h so if faster than 255 the fans are stopping. Honestly I would suggest to integrate a variable which holds the motor at max speed without shutting them down if the max speed is approaching. What do you mean?

I have posted a modified version of Silentchills code that fixes this. I just added "if (SpeedGameDash > 255){ SpeedGameDash = 255;} " so if the game dash output goes over 255 then it will just keep the value at 255

thank you mate

@SilentChill I dunno what happened but now the math is working...lol

I will update the original upload when I am home with the 255 limit make it easier for everyone.

Glad you got it working @Pit

I like to use the fans just on low to stop me sweating when Rallying

Mate, probably nothing to do with your code (btw I am using SimTools 2), but every time when I leave an AC race for changing a car or track, after restarting AC the fans do not spin any more. There seems to be a certain constellation when it works and when not. Just until now I did not find it yet...still hanging on and testing...

Yes with V2.0 I have not used it a lot but I need to restart simtools and game dash everytime I restart a new game for some reason. I need to discuss it with you day when I am back home .

I have a big list to do when I get back lol

lol, eventually when you're back I am sleeping, going to bed now NTL we will solve it, I am sure

buddy, obviously my system is more buggy than your's, still not working (every time) after restarting all SimTools plugins...

BTW I would like to use two different motor setups, one over the head (wind coming from the windshield) and from behind, which is typically for cars without roof, so one should spin slower partly because of a bigger and faster motor design - your code is using both channels (Motor A and B) but only one variable from the Game Dash?

Yes both A and B have the same output.

For mixing two sketches together ...

I have been really slack at updating my project here so here is some more on my progress

I designed my fan vent/nozzle. They will go on the end of my ducting and work as an airflow straightener.

I did two designs, a hex based one and a blade type one. I was reading that they both have their benefits but I like the hex one better.

This is the hex style





and this is the blade style





I am still playing around with printer settings, I need to figure out what I can sacrifice to get better print times.

The Hex style is saying 11 hours and 81 grams of plastic and the blade style one is 8 hours and 98 grams of plastic.

So far I am loving the 3D printer. I have printed a hole bunch of upgrades for my 3D printer and I have so much stuff that I want to make for my rig. I am finding the 3D design is really fun, I love the idea of just going from an idea in my head to a real physical object. Next up is a box for my Arduino and MM.

I did some more work on my air straightener.

I added a mounting bracket for it.







Printed out the first of my final full scale version. the photos don't do it justice because it is really hard to take photos of it because it is back.









I have finished the first design of my controller box.





My controller box finished printing and I am very happy with the results.

This is it with just the Arduino installed



And with the MM. I have made little cutouts for the wires. The top will screw on with M4 bolts, I printed the thread in to the model and they came out really nice.



Here is the USB and power ports



I didn't use screws to hold down the Arduino because M3 is pretty fiddly so instead they are just press fit on to some little studs. The tolerances are so tight that it doesn't budge but I will also be making some little fingers that will come off the lid and press on top of the MM to keep it held down



Also back on my controller than is in use, I have attached my heatsinks. I tested them with my infrared temperature gun and they get up to 40c with the heatsinks on them



I have finished designing the the lid now.

Here is a shot of the box and lid together



And here is a shot of the underside with the reset button and the standoffs to hold the boards down.



On the print bed all ready to print



I hope everything fits together okay. I am not sure how much tolerance I need to give all the parts on my printer. I have left everything with really tight tolerances so I may need to tweak it a bit if my printer isn't that accurate.

I finished printing the lid and reset button and it fits perfectly!!! I went for a tolerance of 0.1-0.2mm in most places except the reset switch which I went for 0.4mm tolerance so it would be easy to push.

The tolerance is so tight that it actually just snaps together with the little tabs for the wires coming out of the box. I tested all the screws and the thread is perfect and all the holes line up perfectly.



I went for a diagonal vent on the top which I think looks pretty awesome. You can see the reset button over to the left hand corner, I want to get some red plastic so I can do that in red, I think that would look cool.



Here you can see how tight the cable holes are



And the cables on the other side



Here is the under side of the lid and the reset button. All of the standoffs are perfect height so they hold the board in nicely.



I am over the moon with how well it turned out. Not bad when you consider that I have only been 3D modelling for about a week

Nice work Avenger , thats a pretty neat looking controller box ,,,,,,

Hey you'll be able to make a cool little back plate for that Fanatec formula wheel you converted a while back now you've got a printer.

@Avenga76 I love it, all looks great.

What software do you use to model the parts ? I was using Google sketchup

That is actually a really great idea. I will do that. I was always meaning to make a finished back plate but totally forgot about it. The 3D printer would be perfect for that.

Thanks. I am using Autodesk Fusion 360. It is free for students and hobbyists.

Great work and progress, your box is perfectly designed. Also all looks very interesting to me to enter this matter once upon a time.

I did some final tweaks to my controller box.

I added an extra support in the middle of the lid and I got some red PLA so I can do the button in red.





If anyone wants me to print them one of these controller boxes then flick me a PM

@Avenga76 you could always just upload the models

No probs. If you have a 3D printer then you are more than welcome to print your own. I have attached the files. They are in STL format so just load them in to your favourite slicer.

Just note that there are a few caveats for printing this.

1. it comes in 3 parts. They can all be printed on the build platform at the same time except now that I have red PLA then I will do the pin separately. The pin only takes 10 minutes to print and uses less that an gram of plastic. The rest takes 8 hours and 49 grams of plastic.

2. I have modelled the thread in the side holes for the M4x0.5 screws so you need to use a fine layer height for the threads to print out okay. I used 0.1mm layer height which is the smallest my printer can do. Normally you would print at something like 0.2mm layer height which will cut the printing time in half but I don't know if the threads will be usable.

EDIT: 0.2mm works fine, I have printed 2 of them now at 0.2mm and they are fine.

3. It is a 17 hour print job using my settings. EDIT: I now have the print time down to just over 8 hours

4. The tolerances are very tight, especially on the tabs that hold the wires in so you might need to do some filing. I have a collection of tiny little files of different shapes and sizes that I use to make sure the fit is perfect.

5. Make sure you print them in this orientation. this will mean you don't need any supports or rafts. I have included this in the zip file

Nice one dude !!

Sure plenty can use this not only for wind controller but many other things too