Showroom **RIP** - 6DOF project using 12v DC Motors, Sabertooth 2x60's (was MM's) and Arduinos + OSW

With my G-Seat and Harness Tensioner - I don't use BFF anymore, as it cannot support all the extra axises. All the current Simtools Plug-ins needs is two surges, so one can be applied in a pitching manner also .

Would be very easy to apply to Surges to one of the extra

I like your project，it is very great. and I am studying 6DOF from you. I would like to ask you what software can be used for mechanical simulation by using simtools output data?
Best regards.
leo

Reading the FAQ page would be a good start not my build thread

Are you still connecting the PSU's and car battery all in parallel and all with isolation diodes? Do you then have a separate car battery charger? Do you continuously charge the car battery or only after a gaming session (when it's isolated)?

You have been such an inspiration that I will be starting my own 6DOF as soon as I have got my head around all this wealth of information

Thanks for the kind words although I can't take credit for a lot of what I have done I have just copied many others, that's what's great about this community a wealth of sharing and knowledge


I have them all connected together and I have turned the voltage on the PSU's to about 13.8v so they are always charging the car battery seems to work a treat so far.

Thank you - that makes sense now. The power supplies you used are similar to the LED strip lighting ones I got for my Anet A8 3D printer 12v @40A and they have a voltage adjustment screw (and cooling fan). By cranking up the output voltage you are able to overcome the blocking diode loss of 0.6v and at the same time prevent the power supplies from being fed from the battery when they are switched off.
Cheers - that helps a lot

I do have a separate isolation switch from the battery to the psu's

That's a good idea and I'll add fuses too

Not saying it 'will' be a problem , but it is not good design to have a charging circuit with no regulator to stop the battery being overcharged (can even be a safety hazard). I would just run the power supply at 12vDC, you are really only using the battery as a big capacitor/filter.

I agree. If there are isolating diodes on each psu and on the battery, I can't see how the battery will be charged anyway

If the cathode of the isolating diode on the battery is taken low when the psu is turned off won't the battery try and discharge through the psu output circuit? I suppose it would depend on the output configuration of the psu - they must float. That must be why the isolating switch is needed.

I'm using the battery as extra power because my motors need it, perhaps if I could lift my platform up with my little finger like some it wouldn't lol

Its never on long enough to over charge and when its turned on its in use, never been an issue so far. The reason why I did that was I just thought an alternator in a car charges the battery constantly at that voltage and they never explode

If I leave the isolation switch on for the battery and the power to the PSU's off the whole circuit powers on and I can use the rig with just the battery.

Well yes and in your case it is obviously not a problem, but all car charging circuits do have a regulator. Just wanted to make sure that everyone understood what is going on.


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Totally agree and my Regulator is the PSU's they will only ever output 13.8v. To my understanding this is the minimum an alternator will ever output and will only really be a trickle charge, so in theory (in my not so brilliant brain) it should be safe ????

Silent, you have bodyshackers on your sim? how did you control them ?

Did have them plugged into the speakers output and through a LFE sub, not the best but it was ok.

Now testing with something else which is working pretty well I must say

And is it something you can share ?

I was planning to test it like you did before..

If I told you I would have to kill you

Oooooooo exciting !!!




Will post a couple more pics once I got them installed