Showroom CXC inspired design!

@Milton
Looking at the last vid.
You are suffering 'cogging' as you have 5 detents per rev, which corresponds to the 5 pole pairs.
Granite ioni have an anti-cogging compensation feature in software. see http://granitedevices.com/wiki/Configuring_cogging_torque_compensation

This sounds like the issue i am having i will tested tonight Thanks!

found the Coggings for this motor is 10!

Not sure where the "steps" are coming from but seems OZHEAT has a solution to try.....Next, turn off All dampening in MMO's i see you have user and desktop effect on, turn those off for now.

Next when saving to MMO's, you want to save to the eprom, Eprom is the default it loads when you open/fire thing's up. So saving to default only gets you so far.

For the general feel to get thing's 100% working You got a setting wrong somewhere. As to exactly where, Not sure.... Have you not posted up on the Iracing threads for help ? However not many guys have Lenze motor's from what i know.

Thank you @OZHEAT and @Nick Moxley for all your good help but unfortunately I am still having the same issue.

@Milton
I wrote a lengthy post last night but lost it when I accidentally hit the back button on the mouse, so here is an abbreviated post.

I always thought cogging was the steps you feel when motor is in operation but industry call this torque ripple.
Try the second part of ioni for setting TRF2 and TRA2.

I think your biggest problem is going to be your 24v power to motor.
Your motor is rated at 640vdc@2400rpm.
Your supplying 24vdc which works out at 1/26.333 of 640vdc
Voltage is kinda proportional to speed, so if you half the voltage and have 320vdc it should spin at ~1200rpm. 160vdc@600rpm 80vdc@300rpm 40vdc@150rpm 20vdc@75rpm.


I think you are going to have to increase your DC bus to at least 48vdc or to whatever the ioni can handle.
Im surprised that the motor even spins at 24v, I would of thought it would be in the undefined area of a power/torque curves as the power is below the motor friction, wire and heat losses.
Have you tried running the ioni in speed mode? does it spin or does it give an over current error?

Maybe add a 12v car battery in series with your power supply so you can test with a 36vdc bus to see if improves things.

Thanks @OZHEAT!
I order the SDR-960-48 48V 20A 960W from Amazon

Umm what ? ? ? Why were you trying to run a 24v PSU Milton.........?

@Milton
I would have preferred to see you test higher voltages first to see if it improves before ordering an expensive power supply.
You may still have problems @48v hate to see you buy something that doesn't improve your situation.

@OZHEAT it is all good! no worries...

Bad news I installed the 48 VDC power supply and the behavior got amplified the steps got stronger I am now thinking that I have a bad Motor.

Anybody knows of Simucube board doing this? or the ONI Pro HC Card? i am affraid of purchasing a new motor just to find out that the SimuCube is doing this...

have you contacted Beano or any of the Dedicated OSW guys who can help with the General Setup/settings for your motor ? Have you found someone who has shared their settings with you that can confirm they are acceptable and work ? I wouldn't go investing in a new motor until i knew for a fact it was needed. Servo motor's are Rough and tough, I Highly doubt yours is "broken" but rather missing some critical setting's you got wrong in Granity, there is quite a few of them afterall.

@Milton

If you want to test the motor there is a few basic things to do.
Test the resistance of each motor windings, being a brushless motor it should be pretty close to 3 ohm between each phase.
Join 2 leads togethér and try to spin by hand, join 2 other leads and spin. Finally join the last combination of leads, is there a significant difference in feeling, there should be very little.

I have a big feeling you haven't gone through the commissioning of motor in granity and just tried other settings.
It would be very important to go through these steps rather than input settings of other users and motors.
Your having problems with the end product(ffb) but there is so many variables and stages that could be wrong.
Start with the motor only with nothing on the shaft ie no steering wheel.
Go through the commissioning and tuning stage and then test it in the most basic mode which is speed and then positioning mode and then finally torque mode.
Once you can confirm that it works in all modes can you go on to test ffb.
There is a few programs that interfaces with directx and can test and control your ffb. Wheelcheck by someone in iracing is one I used.
Test different functions and different settings using wheelcheck, using iracing or any other sim for testing is premature, it won't tell you too much.

I still think that because you have a 400vac class motor is your problem, I don't think there would be many other if any 400vac class motors in use with the ioni, they would use the argon instead.
If you get another motor it would be preferable to get a 220vac class motor which would be standard in the USA or use the mige if you are unwilling to commission and tune.

Thank you so much for your help @OZHEAT i have been struggling with this DIY OSW for too Long and decided to give-up and take everything apart and sell each item separately, what i am going to do next is safe money and buy a turnkey solution i think that will be best for me...

Best Wishes to all.
Milton

Hello guys, i was very said last time when i wrote my previous post, today i see hope for this OSW, i was looking at the Kollmorgen Spec Sheet at the wiring pinout sheet and notice something that is different my wiring could be wrong!

Long story short i saw this post on other website with all the diagrams and information of a build just like mine! so i decited to copy that and posted here few month ago, here is the link for reference:

the original link: http://www.racingfr.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t51856.html

so i compared the pin-out of the post with Kollmorgen Spec sheet and i see the pinout are wrong!
guys i am going to need help on the pin out i still can not find what pins i need to connect for the HAll W, V, U. and C- , C+

here are some pictures:
Please help me to find the correct pin outs for my motor?

thank you so much...

@Milton
Has the encoder been changed from factory?
Your label on the motor says. .....ACN2 which corresponds to a 2048cpr incremental rotary encoder with commutation but now you are saying you have an absolute rotary encoder. Doubtful as you would have got many encoder errors in granity.

If it is an incremental rotary encoder your X16 pinout is correct, commutatating refers to the u,v & w hall sensors.
Pinout of this encoder is on p38 'commutating encoder'

@OZHEAT yes it is a ACN2 yes the correct CPR is 2048 ok great i see it...

@OZHEAT do you know how to go through the commissioning and tuning stage?

Thanks
Milton

your rig looks solid，it must very heave。i guess it needs some wheels to move around。