Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

Just trying to help. I will leave you guys to it - no skin off my teeth..

i will try and sort out a comparison video in the future, who in the UK near london has a OSW ?

i suspect i can improve the wheel with pid tuning if its performance is lacking

My opinion of this comparison topic is that, looking from the price perspective, if all this can come together for the price of a G27, then it's worth the trouble even if I get something just a hair stronger without the gear rattling and the slowness that I'm used to after all these years.
Meanwhile I'm saving for an OSW and rehearsing for the reasoning to the significant other.

i downloaded wheelcheck and ran some of the tests - is there a way to save the output - or do you want to see a video ?

some of the tests are quite violent !

ok i worked out how to find the log files i will turn them into a chart later

the pid settings were P 5, I 0, D 0.25

bigger settings made the wheel act differently

Use this google sheet (don't change anything in the wheelCheck window):
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...eel-FFB-Values-Google-Sheet-amp-FCM-Universal

The test really showed one of the G27 biggest weakness: It doesn't start to react before 18% signal!

guys:

one of the expensive parts of of ffb wheel is a nice encoder, on the other hand, there are some arduino shilds that are super cheap, but with and obvious lack of resolution, my question is:

- can you use a cheap encoder, and then by using gears increase by many the relation betwin 1 turn of the wheel vs many many turns of the cheap encoder?

would it work???

best regards

fer

yes you could, but the difference in price between a low resolution and high resolution encoder is really not much at all

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OMRON-E6B2...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I found this type of encoder the best value for its resolution.

For the education of others (main reason we are all here) do you have reasons beyond the "if it was that easy it would be done already" ? I'm not asking to keep the argument going just wondering if you could explain what would be the main areas of where this concept falls short because some of the objectives met by the 25 pound servo you speak to are not objectives for everyone here. I also ask because from digging deep into the archives it would appear that DIY linear actuators and using JRK's to run a motion platform that used to cost $50k comercially was silly nonsense "back in the day" so I want to make sure this isn't a dead end idea simply because you've already spent the money on an expensive DD wheel and now so should all of us.

I think most people into gadget's build here on the cheap don't for a second think that they will have a OSW for $150 but they may get somthing that pulls hard and feels heavy compared to a g27 and maybe even compares to a t300.

My xyb-6d motor arrived yesterday, that is the last part that was missing to start building my wheel. I would like to ask what experience you have with these and similar motors with regards to the magnets' mechanical resistance. When I turn the motor by hand I can feel the steps real hard. Does it disappear when it is turned on? What does it feel like?
My g27 is so weak not to mention that huge gear ratio, the magnet steps can't be felt even if unpowered.
I'm curious.

Sorry, no further interest .. bye.

you don't feel the magnetic jumps when the wheel is powered up - at least on my build you don't

Hopefully I will have a working wheel before the end of this year, still waiting for the parts to arrive. I will present the result from the wheelcheck, which I suspect will be a bit nonlinear. If so, I already have an idea of how to fix this with a additional microcontroller between the Leonardo and the driver card. Just measure the length of the pwm pulse and use a lookup-table and some interpolation and send out a new pmw with the result. (Should be very easy to fix if we had the source code of the Aiwave...). I have no doubt that it will outmatch my G27. Even if I'm aiming for less than half the rated current, I think the heating is the big question mark, the motor will work in "stall" mode all the time.... Gadget999: Have you tried to fill out the google sheet I linked to before?

yes i have filled out the spreadsheet - but dont know how to upload it to this site

send me a pm with your email and i will forward it over

the output has a lag at the start - but its pretty good. not surprising you cant get movement without a minimum about of power

there are tips how to alter the output to make it linear - i have not had a chance to investigate yet

spreadsheet attached - need to work out how to apply the tuning to get a linear response

I think you should change your rotation to at least 400 degree. It looks like the wheel reach its end already at 50 % signal.