Bastiuscha's 2DOF project

Thanks a lot again! Yes the 25:1 ratio surpriced me. I will ask the shop, for a 50:1 ratio. Then you can't order me a leverarm again, i will build by my self. Just with a rasp and a drillmashine. That will be a long day. Is that aluminium, or steel?

For the first, i will change the gear shaft of my motors and i will craft a leverarm like you have. It will be shorter, than my levers...maybe then, i'm already happy. Because, the backlash is better and my lever don't break anymore. If it's not enough, i will buy the pgsaw motors. Apart from that backlash, my motors are really good.

Thanks again, this helped me a lot!!

Glad to help! I would recommend checking out getting the basic shape machined, though, if you go with this design. It would make sure the key parts are true.

Here’s a photo that better shows how my friend did the clamping slot. It’s a best practices thing. Not sure that it’s absolutely necessary to do it like this though. The relief in the arm itself is so the arm thickness matches the length of the mounts for the heim/rose joints that I used where the nylon locking nuts would be able to lock. I wanted maximum meat on the output shaft but that was too thick for the heim/rose mounts. And you can see the roll pin in the arm already mounted (https://www.mcmaster.com/#roll-pins/=1ap1emu). I think I used 4mm x 35 mm pins.

OK! Will will do so.

Nice

Hey,

i have some bad news and some good...


The bad: i can't rebuild a own shaft, because that riffle profile, i can't reconstruct. Because of this reason, i can't use the nicer leverarms. I have to buy new motors first.

But for now, i give a last chance... i tryed a last "perfect" welding. And now, i use a shorter leverarm. Maybe the force is now small enough, that it's will be good for the next time.
And this brings me to the good news: the shorter leverarm is so much better, for the backlash...it feels so much better now.

Hey mates, i have a question outside of my problems.

I use smc code...it works really well, but sometimes i have a little issue....maybe there is a trick or workaround, to solve this. Sometimes after a while of driving, my rig don't move 100% exact, back to horizontal position. First, i thought there is a mechanical issue. But (i only use Assetto Corsa) if i go back to menu and start a new race, my seat set his own position in a short move, to a perfectly horizontal position. Why is that and how i can fix it? Is there a problem with the game plugin? A position reset button, could be nice.

You may need to go to the advanced axis setup if you haven’t already and set up the washout values. They seem definitely needed for flight.

Washout? I never thought, that washout can help. Gain & Return Setting is 0. Which value i have to change? Return?

Both I believe. I don’t have a feel for good ranges yet but would bet it depends. If I remember properly I had gain at 25 and return at 25 or maybe 20. It worked great in flight but was set too high and would reduce the travel because it was correcting while the movements were still happening. I turned gain and return to 5 each and now that’s too low by just a hair for flight. Will be adjusting it back up some as well as increasing the axis percentages to compensate. I haven’t adjusted yet for driving so no advice there.

Much thanks for your information! I will check that out and give a response soon!

Yesterday i checked it out. I set gain & return to 20. For the first race, i had no problem (6 rounds). Most of time, after that races, i can see a little askance. This time, it was good. Then after that race i did a extrem test...i crashed strong with other cars. And after that, i had the problem again. The rig was not perfect horizontal. Strange..... maybe i have to set 25 or 30...i will check it.

Now i changed both values to 25. And after a few races, i can say...it's better. On normal way, my rig is perfect horizontal, after every race! Only on real strong crashes, i have still this issue. But this is no problem. I can life with that! Thanks for your help.

No i prepare me for my wind simulation update! I ordered all parts.

Today one off my hall sensors is damaged. The axis is tight, i can't turn anymore. I don't know why. Maybe i crack the case, to watch inside, to find out the reason for it.

Thanks a lot. I invited him to this thread.

Grab that sucker with the Biggest Plyers/Channel Locks/Wrench you got. Dont Crush the Main Body and Try you best NOT to damage the nice smooth Shaft and turn that mofo.....Technically its junk right ? So whats the harm in getting rough with it.


This is EXACTLY what happened to my Right side pot when i first built my rig, It locked up twice if i recall and i broke it free twice, Its a brass/bronze bushing in there and im not sure exactly whats mechanically getting cock eyed in there as i have yet to cut open a Dead encoder. Why haven't I had a dead encoder, because im still using that Right side pot to this day,

Once you have a proper Flex coupler installed and a flexible pot mount, your laughing all the way to the bank as you've saved 20$ (might have to spend that 20$ on flex couplers now that i look)

I run those exact motors, for over 700 hours now. Tiny bit of gear lash, but as others have stated, a little over balance does the trick for me. Honestly, I have never really noticed any gear lash while running the sim. I am only running a seat mover, but the fidelity of these motors are astounding to me.

@Nick Moxley
Thanks for your help. Yay..i used two screw nuts and fixed them together. After that i could use enough force to loose the axis again! Nice! If i turn the axis, i can feel in one position a small drag. Something is happen in there... sadly, that i can't open the body. But for now, it works again. Good for me... save some money for the moment.

Do you think a flex coupler is better for the hall pot? Because, the force is smaller?

@Brett Horton
I think, a only seat moved rig, is much lesser force for that gears, but anyway good to hear that. I'm pretty sure, that i will buy them. At the moment, i'm ok with my motors, but i the next time, i will change for sure.


Sry for my english guys.

Flex couplers are IMO mandatory if you want your pots to survive the long haul.

They are cheap insurance and make hooking them up easy peezy.

When you have them out, Add a few drops of oil to the shaft, Work it down in there. But dont use too much. The oil will help the bushing go back to nice and smooth.

That i had to know earlyer. My idea was before, with a flex coulper, i lost exactness. But thanks, today i will do that for sure.