DIY Pendular Rudder Pedals

Several hours on the pedals today, they are the smoothest that I have ever used. Really liking these things. Hope they work as well for you.

I have a question about 2 pieces and those are the "Brake lever for bearing" and the "Brake lever for Aluminum".
Were those cut out of aluminum or 3d printed.
I did convert the DXF files to PDF and made 1:1 scale templates of the brake levers and the "T" bar pieces.

The brake lever pieces seem to be related to the main pendulum spring tension actuators.

I do not remember seeing a magnet holder for the "pendulum pot" Or the shell.

I plan on making the frame from 80 20 extrusion.
Base plate from 10" x 10" x .25" aluminum plate.
I am ready to order the metal this week.

Ignore anything "for aluminum". I did not take the time to sift through the files. As I mentioned before I never really intended to create a tutorial or a how to just shared when asked.

I had a lot of trial and even more error

I did mention also that some of the parts/pieces/holes changed after I created the model depending on what I had out in the shop. For instance; the t lever that I eventually used is 1/4" steel welded into a t, rather than the thicker model. I had originally intended on using thick aluminum but I did not have any in the shop.

Brake levers were the assembly for the toe brake pedals. You have no need for those. That includes, "Brake Lever for bearing" which was just the end pieces that would house the bearings.

The magnet holder for the t-bar is called T bar hall pot magnet housing hex mount

The cover for it is called Hall effect cap inner t bar

And the cover is called hall effect cap inner t bar ic solder point cover.

OK.. I didn't realize you had updated the Dropbox file so I was short on many items.
I now have the latest dropbox and found the new files..
Well I am learning... And your the teacher.
So you are just going to have to deal with me a bit longer.

The T-bar spring levers wide/narrow look nice.
What do you think about this t-bar. Its mostly 3d printed with an 16mm sq aluminum bar running through it. My 3d printer would not do the full length of the Tee so I cut the ends off to fit..

That is a good idea, especially if the aluminum is taking most of the force from the L levers.

Got my shipment of aluminum sheet and the 16mm sq bar.
Levers are done and the T bar assy looks good too.
Hopefully I can start putting things together.
It was a beautiful day and I got to fly my new Grand Tundra!

Some detail pictures of the levers.

Really nice, mine do not look that nice.

Something that I might have done instead with my own set: enlarge the hole for the 1/2" bolt to allow the nut to seat against the bearing. Not really needed as I never did it to mine but my nuts do rub against the aluminum (ok, thinking about how that sounds....not good)

I have thought about making metal washers that would allow a the bearings and nuts to be tightened together.

I might still make some washers that have a small outside diameter and 1/2" inside diameter to use as spacers.

Yea

Well the drawings you published were pretty easy to work off of.
It made construction possible for me. So a big thumbs up.

I paid a little over a $1 apeice for the bearings and they come 10 to a box so I had left overs.
I cut some apart for spacers and they work well. You can see one on the lower pedal bolt..

I hope to start on the frame next..

I am going to use flanged bearings on the upper lever pivot.
It needs 2 bearings per side.
No need to change the printed spacers. Just increase the spec'd 12mm hole to 21mm.
Since I am using 12mm x 1.75mm pitch bolts and rods I am going to stick with 12mm id bearings.
Here are the bearing specs Flanged Bearings Pn F6800ZZ
12 mm id x 21 mm od x 5mm x 23mm flange od..

I have started on the frame .
The frame height is 12.5" or 320 mm
The width is 5" or 127 mm
These dimensions are not critical..
The frame is made from extruded aluminum commonly called 80/20.
(T-Slotted Extrusion, 10S, 97"Lx1"H)..
The lever pivot hole is 2 1/4" or 57 mm from the top.
I made a simple drilling jig for the extrusion that gets me very straight and aligned holes. (it does require one corner brace)
Bolting the frame together also saves the cost of the somewhat expensive corner fittings.
And the best thing since sliced bread are the Drill/Tap combo bits
(too many pictures???) Maybe !

It is coming together..
I still have to figure out how I am going to mount the springs.
And mount the brake sensors.
And add the Arduino Micro Pro board.
More pics...

I added a thick pad to the inside back of the pedal model to bolt an angle bracket to for the linear potentiometers to mount to. That is why there are holes.

I used angle aluminum mounted to the two flaps hanging down from the T bracket and then two bolts in that to mount the tension springs.

The brake sensor assembly is done.
I redid the rack stl. It includes the top disk.
Thinned down the width a bit.
To run the 1/4-20 rod throughout the rack you will still have to carefully drill out the hole.
Keep in mind the drill bit will melt the plastic as it is drilling.
Keep it cool with water or a WD-40 type oil.
Most likely after adding the threaded rod the sides of the rack will bulge.
Steel vs Plastic .. Steel wins every time.
You will have to shave more plastic off the sides of the rack.
Take off as little as possible for a smooth fit.
You should be able to sight down the rack and see the bulge.
Rack.zip is the stl file.
Picture time

I didn't have those issues, perhaps the type of petg you are using?

Plastic vs metal as you mentioned makes me wonder if the top of your rack will break off if you get overexcited about braking

Yea its an experiment. I upped the perimeter shell by one and went with 50% infill for strength.
Pet-g is pretty strong we will see if it holds up.
I rarely even use the brakes except to turn in taxing.
I was playing around in Tinkercad so I figured what the heck...
I made the lever stop out of a scrap piece on the 80/20.
I added 2 layers of foam tape to each side to space it out a little.
The rubberband (#64 of course) works pretty good.
Sliding it up and down changes the pedal tension...
I will most likely go with springs later.

Finished up the brakes today.
Picture shows how I left the cover off the sensor assembly to calibrate the hall sensor.
Next picture shows how the hall sensor leads are bent to allow the front of the hall sensor to face the magnet.
I did open up the slot in the hall sensor cover to allow the leads to exit more easily.
The Interface board I am using is an Arduino ProMicro.
An Arduino Leonardo could also be used.
The sketch is below.
I also have included the Joystick Library which is needed.
And the beat goes on..

Quite an interesting project.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3105311

Everything is done and working.
Thanks again out to Historiker for the awesome project.