Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

What psu specs would you recommend? What is the minimum? I know generally people go with 12v psus, it's just the wattage and amps I'm not sure about. I know the OP is currently using a 900+w psu, but those are quite expensive here and I can't find any of them second hand. I was wondering if 360w would be enough?

360w is unlikely to be enough on a dd wheel. If you havecit geared then maybe. However, if it is a pc power supply then be cautious. They generally need some load symmetry and will be unable to supply stated current without drawing from other rails.

Just look for a server power supply. HP are my choice as they are powerful, quiet, plentiful, cheap and easy to mod. But most hot-plug style ones are usable and have extremely high current raitings.

If I were to go the server psu route, how much wattage would you recommend? 800w? 1000w? These are roughly rm180-200+, which roughly translates to 44-49usd

Would these be okay?

https://shopee.com.my/product/162306315/7402966730?smtt=0.0.9

https://shopee.com.my/product/135250314/2871940032?smtt=0.0.9

I would not trust them. chances are (like any stuff that comes out of china) they will not perform reliably at the stated power. I have had similar ones catch on fire when used at 60% of rated output. I just wouldnt.

What motor are you looking at running? What is its rating/stall current?

I haven't started, still planning on what to buy.

i got this and modded it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-870W-Po...xYeP2W:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!94587!US!-1

here is the wiring:

i'm using my1020, and haven't had any issues so far.
1) it's a bit heavy, so i have it placed off my rig
2) it's a bit loud, but according to some websites, it's quieter than other server Psu's
3) it's pretty cheap

Can someone here advise how they have fit their encoder to MY1020 motor? My encoder is just the regular Chinese encoder with 6mm shaft that everyone seems to use here.
Do you have to drill into the back of the motor casing? I'm afraid to take the motor apart because I've seen videos that complain about how difficult it is to put it back together.

Ah, I think this was the most tricky part of the build. The answer is "yes", you have to open the motor, and it IS rather not easy to put it back together (I had to use a hook). However, this is the only way because if you drill without taking it apart, the metal shavings from the drilling will be inside the motor (well, i don't know much about motors, but it just sounds like a bad idea). Making the actual drill once opened was easier than I thought it would be since there is a sunken hole for the drill to be centered. If you have a drill press, it won't be too hard to center it.

The way I did it was to use a drill bit that was slightly smaller than a machine screw. After the drill, I screwed in the machine screw, then sawed off the head, then flattened one side of the screw with a handsaw (for the coupler to be secure). Obviously, you also have to drill a larger whole on the back cover while you have it apart.

I think I saw somewhere where a person used a pulley system with the encoder near the front shaft. I think he was just testing it, but that is a solution without having to drill. However, I think some detail will be lost if the encoder is secured this way, so I don't think this is a real option if you are doing this to get the benefits of a true DD wheel.

Good.. Good work with this steering wheel.... And thank you for sharing with us this project.........
I have a problem........
In the first phase everything worked ok I uploaded the firmware with the St link my encoder worked very well, after a few days of tests without force Feedbach STM34F4 discovery that I use no longer connects.
In the St Link utility tells me that it is not connected and in MMOs software the same.. The plug drawn from the lower left corner of the USB remains red, so far it turns green, in other order of ideas, on the STM32F4 disco plate before it ignites 2 led Red 1 led green and at least one blue led, now only light red and green led,
I mention that I use both cables for this plate... The one for the 5v power and the anotherone for data, what did I do wrong?...sorry for my bad English..use GOOGLE TRANSLATE...
Thanks in advance because you listened to me !
My project is: DD
500 W 24 V my 1020
2 IBT-2
2x 56 Ah Power source
STM32F4 Discovery
2000 PPR/3 Phase Omron Encoder

stm32f4disco is connected without problems to another PC .... what god has to no longer want to connect to my PC, other devices, bodnar, arduino, trustmaster, mouse, keyboard, connect without problems.

I drilled the hole without disassembly. Just be sure to block the ventilation holes with tape.

I had a weird problem like that where my Leonardo worked on my desktop, but not on my laptop. The problem ended up being the USB insert on my laptop. It was too loose and didn't connect all the way (but the board still lit up and was working in a weird way). If you haven't yet, maybe check the cable, and check the USB port.......

Thanks for the great advice Qlittles and Danove. I drilled into the back of the motor with a 6.8mm drill, so that I could tap it to 8mm. Problem is that I used a hand drill. I drilled it crooked, so I didn't really fancy attaching the encoder to the back after that.
Instead I went for the second option and attached the encoder to the front shaft, using a belt and pulley.
Thanks guys

Sounds good! I'd be interested to hear how the detail is in your build when you are done

I use a my1020 36w 1000w with a 12v and 82a psu and it gives me 9NM, connecting directly to the source reached 10NM, the problem may be in the ibt-2, I use 4 and not because it is hot, the problem is that not all can handle the same amount of current, some are very weak and if it is your problem they will not be able to give more current even if you increase the PSU, check the ibt2 individually with the motor and the PSU and measure the maximum voltage at the output, at my some reached me at 6V and others at 4V

has anyone tried the Leonardo and the STM32F4

was there a difference in performance between the 2 ?

Has anyone checked and lutted to see the engine's power line? It practically comes out linear to me but at 80-90% it is already at 100% strength, why is this?