Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

Hi guys, due to quarantine i've had some spare time to mess with my wheel settings and i've found that its linearity at full force is terrible, the only way to get some good results is to use it at half power but then it's too light (i think around 2Nm). BTW i've got a LY1020, 48V 800W with a 12V 50A PSU but i measured a maximum absorbed current of around 30A, so i guess the motor resistance is too high for 12V.
It's easier and cheaper for me to get a new motor, i've seen a couple of MY1020 36V at 60€, an 800W model with a mounting plate and a 1000W one without it. I'd rather buy the one with the plate for an easier installation. Do you think there's any difference between these two? I always read that specs for these motors are often pretty much made up.

Thanks!

As i said i tested mine during this period and i noticed something similar, lowering the maximum force gave me way better results in terms of linearity but it's too weak.
As you can see lowering the maximum force seems to reduce the % at which the motor is giving his maximum force.
Motor is a LY1020 48V 800W, with around 30A 12V input, tests done with Wheelcheck with 100 steps.

Thanks for your reply. Are you talking about how the black wire is mistakenly labelled V-? Just double checking.

Also I got a coupon from ebay so I guess I am buying a steering wheel this week. My setup should make around 6Nm. Should I go for a 320, 330, or a 350mm? I know that a smaller wheel will make the FFB feel stronger but I've never driven anything with less than a 350 so idk what it's like.

Hi good day.

I need to clarify some concepts in which I make water.

With a 48V 1000w my1020, which source is ideal?
1) source gives me 10Nm
2) doing the Wheelcheck test, does the graph have to be as linear as possible? That is as linear as possible means better represents the details of the simulator?
3) the most complicated query. What difference is there in putting a 12v and 40A source with respect to a 12v and 80A source (2 sources in parallel)
5) because a 12v and 100A source is used, the ideal as understood in this thread, instead of using a 24v 100A source or one of 36V 100A or 48v 100A ???

It is not a problem of money what I have, but of performance. Buying a DD Auguri is much more expensive than this project, so investing here will always be much cheaper than a DD.

If you wanted more Nm could you use this motor?
op1- https://tiendamia.com/ar/producto?amz=B0843NG88Q&pName=EVAPLUS-42V-2A-Power-Adapter-PowerFast-3Prong
op2- https://tiendamia.com/ar/producto?amz=B084RG32NH

6) If you were to use one of these engines, what source would you need for a better performance?

7) all questions based on the schematic: arduino -3 ibt-2 parallel - motor.

8) is there any more "power" option to replace the ibt-2? Is there a higher-ampejare driver that fulfills the same function and is of good quality?

Please be as clear and detailed as possible in the answers to understand both the operation and the advantages of the different options-configurations.

Thank you and excuse my English.

I'm putting it all together now and idk how to attach the my1020 to the 3 ibts in parallel. I've been reading that the leads of a motor are typically coated with a varnish that makes a bad connection if crimped or soldered to. Is that the case for the my1020?

Youre not connecting them to the windings of the motor directly, just the normal wires exiting the motor.

basically each +/- from ibt out join togeter and go to the corresponding motor wires. same for the power in. plenty of diagrams here. What board are you using?

Thanks for your reply. So are you saying that the wires aren't coated with any varnish and I can crimp to them and get a good connection? I attached a picture of the wire so you can see.

I think I could have worded my earlier post better. I understand the wiring diagram; My problem is with physically attaching the wire.

oh, yeah thats fine - they are tinned. i would highly recommend solder over crimp however. A bad connection is going to generate heat and when we are talking about these sorts of current its more important you have a very good connection

Thanks for your reply. I thought that they were tinned too but that is the section that I stripped so it was under the sheathing. Why would they tin wire under the sheathing? I thought tinning was to make it easier for people to solder to it.

It helps with preventing corrosion of the copper.

Oh ok that makes sense. Thanks for all your help. After reading some stuff on the rc forums I was sure I had screwed up. You just made my day.

Good job !

My guess is you are missing pulses, 1000 per revolution is a lot for an arduino to count

I used 360 pulses

There may be a way to reset the count to zero everytime you pass the index centre position

You will need to fit an encoder with less pulses

Some encoders have several wires x,y,z

You may be able to connect them together or use a different wire for less pulses

Do you have a pullup / pulldown resistor on the signal wire ?

Fit a 1k resistor between 5v and the sensor pin this may help

Do the b and z wires have less pulses ??

It could be an issue with the coupling from the motor to the encoder. It's going to be hard to track down where the problem is exactly but I am pretty sure there are others with the Leo board and 1000ppr encoders without problems. +1 on adding the 1k pullups to the data lines though.

I know it is a bit late but the solder on the wire is from the previous soldered connection.
Capillary action will draw solder in to the wire even if it is still coated with pvc, it all depends on how much flux and heat is applied to the joint.

Hello everyone. I read all the posts in this topic and decide to make my own dc-dd wheel. Buy all the components and start to build on 30.6.2020. Right now I threw the software into stm32 and made the encoder connection with your posts help. I couldn't run the encoder without resistors. I hope I will not have any other difficulties in remaining work. Thanks to your sharing, I have read the problems that may happen to me and I don't have to search for the solution myself.

In the meantime I'm living in turkey and all the parts are here to provide the needed 300$
MY1020 36V 500W
Chinese 1000ppr encoder
3x Bts 7960
2x 12V 40A 500W power supply
4x 7cm fan
jumper cables
stm32F4 Discovery board

The only problem is that it is not possible to get a motor that is stronger than 500W here. I hope 500W is enough for me.


I want to thank you very much for your posts, that's why I became a member of the forum. When i complete i will share with you pictures here.

a 40 amp power supply may not be enough

consider a 70-90 amp power supply from a computer server instead

I bought 2 of the adapter because I thought the power would be insufficient. I think 80A works by connecting in parallel

Hi again. i am very close to completing the project. Here some pictures. But i have a question for you @Gadget999 . in the connection scheme PWM signals on PE8-PE9-PE10-PE11-PE12-PE13 on Stm32. But have 2 pwm cable from ibt slot 1 and slot 2. Which output should I connect on stm? And how should I make the ibt2 serial connections? I will be very glad if you help me about that 2 problems.