Tutorial "HPMC" High Power Motor controller H-bridge using N-MOSFETs

yep count me in on 2 units, let me know the price as they will cost me $35 aus to produce 2 units by hand if cost is under I will take 2 maybe more if any aussies want one built I can populate and test with the simaxe (when the post get of their bums and deliver it) , ok interested, Thanks @RaceRay

Guys just to remind you all ... First of all there will be 4 wires to be soldered as surface jumps on the bottom board
circled in the following picture



edit : this is the new version surface jumps .

This will be my last post on this thread out of respect but you all are misunderstanding me! I did not intend a debate because there is not a competition going on! Only a choice. It was meant to be informative for some people trying to make a choice for themselves that don’t already know which way to go yet that are looking at this post. I have absolutely no involvement with Dimension Engineering or it’s employees other than buying some of their products. The company has treated me right and their products have worked well for me (after they fixed me up after some problems) so I have been letting others know about them. That’s it! Sorry I posted here as I see that wasn’t the best decision on my part even though the sabertooth was already mentioned. But I said Thank You and this is perfect for those that want it so I don’t know what part of that you don’t understand! I mean what I say even if you don’t seem to really appreciate it as you claim.

Dimension Engineering states that you should use a low-pass filter when using pwm with the sabertooths analog mode. That will smooth the output if the proper components aren’t used. I don’t know that their statement is accurate but my assumption is they would not say it otherwise. Since SimTools is all about the most accurate motion, this could compromise that somewhat. If there is another way to use it as an h-bridge, I am uninformed of it. If anyone does I would like to learn about it if they will share it.

I wish you all the best in your endeavors. My only intention is to help people here succeed with as few failures along the way as possible.

Ooops ...

Edit :
Done and every update will be added in the first post ...

Simtools could compromise it? So should we be using different motion software then?

Finally ... Original post updated and arranged ... will be updated with real pictures beside the imaginary green ones to be more clear ... please read again ... and if you came across any tiny unclear point ... please spot it for me .

@abdo_tahan really good one!

I was looking for n-channel h-bridges on the web by a month or so...
I am indeed in the process of design and build one by now.
But I was facing the problem with gate drivers. Since I cant easily put my hands on a simple ir2110 (can you believe it?) I was trying to make using discrete components and I went half-successfull (running not as cool as I wish).

Anyway congratulations and I will try it very soon!

ps. Have you any video of this in action? I would like to enjoy it

My regards!
Rafael.

@rafael_design
OMG ... So you are trying to invent the wheel again ? ... Isn't there any supplier around you for purchasing that little IC ?
That's how it works then ... Japan wins for technology and Brazil win the football world cup ... the rest of the world " Keep up the good watching ".

THANKS ... Google ...

edit: Sorry Rafael for the video and real pictures till now ... I did many of this controller 6-8 months ago and they are all sold out and working good ( used in aluminum carving machine ) ... put coming back soon with a good presented DIY process for your eyes only xsimulator.net

@abdo_tahan after some more Google-fu I found it! And "only" 35 Km away from here :S

I am not sure if I agree with you about driving car starter motors (but anyway I already am your fan ). Have you seen my video in this post?
http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/starter-motor-h-bridge.4791/
This was without any gears and I would not put my fingers over there
Another thing I will do next is to use the 2110 to drive the starter schematics.

Thanks!

35km ... that's like two bus stops or so ... you can have it as delivery with extra ketchup ...
next time ... Google for your TV remote control ... and the answer is under your right arm ...


BTW, Starter motor here is for testing purposes only ... to get confident that ANY big worm gear will work perfectly for you .

Thanks to abdo_tahan, just what we need, woulo like to see a circuit diagram for build testing procedure, if you are publishing.

Is there sufficient interest for pairs of PCB to be etched ? I would be interested in two or more sets depending on cost with post to UK.

Regarding copper discs, thin pipe or tank copper is easy but would defeat the object of the thicker discs in transmitting the heat, stacking thin discs is not advisable the air gap will reduce the heat transfer considerably. Machining wastes 100% .

A local UK supplier, copper price was around 4 euro each as 60mm squares for me to cut from one meter length of 60mm wide flat bar 4mm thick. I am proposing to drill and tap the mosfet fixing screw holes to create a larger flush, bolt head free, seating area for the cooler (seating surface for the mosfets and cooler must be flat)

I may be able to help others with the copper if it is a difficulty and there is enough interest.

I have access to a wide range of metal kinds/forms Exporters here in Alexandria ... they are may be sold by length or weight ... let me ask them by tomorrow for there best prices ...
they are mostly used in making these hand carving beauties ... you may Google by "Egyptian khan El khalili copper products " images .



I see now what @RaceRay and @eaorobbie wanted ... I can also arrange and source a " ready to assemble kit " or something like that to be here in the marketplace ... and put the link here ... also can make it in a box like that idea ...



Hi five to the turtle ...
have fun every one ...

Dear Rene ... Actually there is, and I'm glade you permit sharing that " Thanks Admin" ...

presenting here some good pictures that are best made ...a video with @prilad FW is provided below .











please not here in this video the copper disk is alone is not a heat sink " that is an error " ... please use the computer fan all the time ...

I think anyone can use the same pdf files and make it not smd. The only difference is that you should drill the square pads on its centers and, of course, etched side down. Or not?
Only because of the latest posts I noticed that it was smd

Already ordered my 2110's from a farther store. The place near here was asking for double the price and only has one piece available :S

No No @rafael_design ,My friend ... Etched sides are and will be always on it's own same side for each top and bottom boards ... changing that will disorder the orientation of all components ...
plus the pins of the components through the boards will cause a space between boards and my short circuit between please don't do these things ...

Soldering and desoldering components like this ... is way much better and easier than through hole ...

Ok now its clear to me that the boards are back-to-back... Anyway, look at the pictures below:

Please notice that the bottom board is mirrored in comparison to the real one on the right. And the top board is not.
Both pdf files are not mirrored regarding to the right picture. IMHO if you are etching to be SMD (like the right picture) the pdf should be mirrored.