Showroom DIY 2DOF simulator

I'm going to replace the motors from ZYT-90-155 to ZYT-90-199. The torque is better : 1.2 Nm instead of 0.4 Nm.
Time to receive orders and I keep you informed.

For sure, interesting to know the result.

@Erwan960 I would consider stronger gear boxes the motor setup we are using from motiondynamics are far stronger and produce 20NM with the supplied 200w motors.
Plus what voltage are you running out I would increase it to 13.8vDC or up to 16v which is the Jrks recomended max. Only ideas.

To increase the voltage to 13,8 V seems a good idea, I'll see if I can find a compatible power supply powerful enough. It would be a good start.

I already have motors ZYT-90-199. I need to find compatible and powerful enough gearboxes. I was looking the MCP4 25:1 or 50:1 as I already use but I would like to find a model that is able to maintain its position even if the power is off. If anyone knows it ....

I will be puting 60:1 boxes on a mates motors this week and I will report back. But really, what is it with people wanting sim to stay still with power off? Just power it off after you get off the thing and power on before you get on..............

MCP4 are not strong boxes at all. They are not what we are using, our boxes come apart for servicing of the bearings, etc not cold riveted together. The boxes @bsft mentioning would be an improvement but again are cold riveted , unserviceable, you can drill the rivets out but loose the warranty on the box. Beware they are 1/3 less in overall speed but a massive jump in torque.

To hold position with power off requires very closely meshed gears most wipers are like this but the gearing is so weak, with the extreme situation you have them , they wont last, or any box the has tight and high angle mesh, which is require to do what you want.
Sorry.

Ummmm... I pulled apart one of the 60:1 boxes from Shane , bashed out the solid shaft, turned it around, bashed it back in, and them used bolts to hold box together. They are serviceable to an extent, no I didnt take photos.....
Speed fix can be sorted in profile fix

I forgot maintaining the off position. It was more for aesthetics: keep the cockpit in the middle position, rather than see it collapse when powered off
Regarding gearboxes, if you had a reference to give to me adaptable to my motors, I'm interested. I order, I test and I keep you informed

@Erwan960 http://www.motiondynamics.com.au/worm-drive-gearbox-to-suit-industrial-motors.html , they are metal internals, to change the shaft around, drill out rivets, pull aparts bash shaft out, turn around, bash in, bolt back together. Left and right hand gearboxes now

What do you think about the model #7 (12V - 64 rpm - 50 Nm) and #11 (12V - 54rpm - 60 Nm) ?
With the manipulation you propose to reverse the output shaft, it could be interesting, right?

How did you manage to fix the link? You soldered directly on the shaft ?



edit : OMG !
2 item(s)$458.00
Shipping$244.20

Pity that the shipping costs are so high!

the 320 watt motors are too high wattage to use on the JRK. 250 watts is about the limit considering they get overdriven. I test a 320 watt motor, it spiked constantly over 40 amps, and JRK has 49 amp cut out.
I dont otherwise know about the motor, where did you find that list?
For fixing to the shaft, which was 20mm OD, I found a length on 25mm box steel, which happened to be about 21mm ID, (if you find pipe like this is would be good) I welded a bar on the top, then measured and cut the tube to a decent length, 20mm I think, drilled through the shaft and put a 8mm bolt through it. Then I tightened the !@%# out of the bolt. I may have to replace them with proper high tensile bolts, but will see if anything wiggles loose.
I am fitting them tomorrow to this mates simulator, then hopefully we get a quick video done.
Cheers, David.

P.S. shipping cost are ridiculous sometimes......

For information : (It's Seatime by the way on my sim computer account 'sons avatar' - My normal account will not work on this computer?) the last motor I received from Motion Dynamics for drift does not move at all with the power off. I thought there was something wrong with it, so pulled it apart to find nothing wrong. Works perfectly when powered up. I have set my seat mover motors so that that the arms sit on rubber foam when at rest, no problems getting in or out when powered down, as expected a bit of a kick when they center on turn on though.

@vawriss , seatime in disguise, I just bought 2 motors from Motion Dynamics recently and yes, I noticed they were near impossible to move, even with a lever. I asked the supplier and he said, they are new motors and gearboxes with a slight mod to help hold them with power of, but under power they are fine.
Good idea to have the frame sit on something when its off. It helps.
I must say after nearly 3 years, 11 frames of my own, 4 frames built and sold, if you are after atheistically pleasing with the frame staying still and at centre when its off, go buy a commercial unit them. And good chance you will find most of them dont sit in the centre either, they also drop to the bottom or if you lean on the actuators/motors when they are not powered at all, they will move.

There : http://www.motiondynamics.com.au/12v-dc-worm-drive-geared-motor-320w-60n.m-54-rpm-clone.html

Shane from Motion Dynamics is going to try to reduce my shipping costs...
I see how much is the economy

So for you bsft, it's better to take a 200W motor ?
54 RPM and 36 Nm would be fine, isn't it ? It's the model #11

Yes the 200 watt motor would be better on a JRK. I have mine overdriven to 500 + watts to get good motion. Thats 41 amps.
If you overdrive a 320 watt motor the same amount, it adds up to 800 watts - 66 amps. JRK will shut down.
54 rpm is a tad slow, thats car wiper speed, but the torque is high so you have better "toss you around" power.
Mind you, good motion can be gotten from 50 rpm with a good profile. Yo may not quite get snappy motion, but you will certainly get hard knocks.
Up to you if want to go with that speed on motor, considering you are stepping down from a 25:1 box to a torque 50:1 box.

First conclusion: 320 W motor but 200 W motor

Currently I use a 25:1 gearbox on a 1500 rpm/0.4 Nm motor : 60 RPM available and 10 Nm theoretical or maximum.

Model 7 offers me 64 RPM and 30 Nm (50:1 gear ratio)
Model 11 offers me 54 RPM and 36 Nm (60:1 gear ratio)

According to me, one or the other should be fine, no ? But from what you say, 64 RPM / 30 Nm is better...

ok didnt know you used 25:1 box on 1500 rpm motor, sorry
I use 3600 rpm motor on 25:1 box.
So in that case you are still having 54-64 rpm ish at the shaft, just a heck of a lot more torque.
6nm difference in torque at 10 rpm less. up to you.

Yes 200 watt motor for sure
you may get decent motion from 320 watt motor, but its up to you to test.
We know what works, thats all.

So I made my choice :
Model 7 : 64 RPM and 30 Nm (50:1 gear ratio)

Thanks !

Sounds good, hopefully Shane can help with price of freight.

Hello,
I was wondering how it would be possible to test my setup after applying your recommendation to my JRK 21V 3A profile? Thank you,