My 2DOF arcade machine

If you use 12v, these http://www.pololu.com/product/1393 one per motor.
If you intend a lift of frame like you suggested, 12v 200 watt motors with 50:1 gearboxes and a short lever, like 30-40mm CTC. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GEAR-MOTOR-1...rg=20140620075055&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=370915744975
If you go balance pivot 2DOF, depends on frame design, but the 12v 200 watt motors with a faster ration gearbox will do fine.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GEAR-MOTOR-1...rg=20140620075055&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=370915744975
cheers, David.

@bsft thanks for the info!
but what is the difference between a 12v and 24v motor?

I chose the same engines as racingmat, and will operate at 24V.
For the electronics I have chosen arduino UNO + ibt-2 H-bridge.
http://m.ebay.es/itm?itemId=131268603780
This bridge is not dual, so two are required, one for each engine

Not if they are the best or worst option, but for its price, even for testing and worth it.
People that use them and will work well.

Hi Petar2
for the motors what have you bought?

http://www.smolka-berlin.de/onlines...cteur_24V_DC__Offre_sp%E9ciale%21%21%21_/4398

Sorry, these are

Hey Petar, I would hope those motor mounts are only for testing. As they Do not look any where near robust enough for the task at hand.

Also can i request a close picture of the wiring on your PSU's.

You are absolutely right, these brackets are for testing only, like the wood used.
The cable is 2.5 mm section, I would hold, but I think I can put double for each engine if necessary.

What do you think?
P

are you going to use 24v power on 24v motors?
Or are you going to use 12v power on 24v motors?

I will use 24 V, so the Server Two sources in series.

Hi Petar2,
what kind of power supply are you used?
why you have used 2 power supply?

I'm using two sources of server HP dps-600pb.
For two? For by these sources deliver 12V 47A 575W.se a mod that makes them work is serial, so we get 24V 47A 1150W.
More than enough to move my engines.

Thanks for the info Petar2.

Now i'm studying a solution on how to separate the seat from the cabinet.
How do you think you will do it?

To separate the seat from the base, will withdraw the timber supports, the metal base of the seat rails with square seat.me remnant metal base are attached to the seat.
this seat subwoofer incorporates down.estructure metal at the base of the machine, and a universal joint, will join the seat.
Once done this, again wood and if we have to cut something ..... cut and maintain the aesthetics of recreational as possible, but we must assume that is no longer the same as it ever was.

Here the collected pieces, securing and preparing the potentiometers electronics.
I've removed the seat and today I'll make a prototype of the structure with wooden slats.
After setting the prototype, you switched to a metal construction.

More or less this is the idea, the two rear brackets as a bar be welded and the two central metal plate that is attached to the drive shaft.

Even I have to find the center of gravity of the seat with my weight including block and see if the hole is in the red wood, or if you have to cut to fit.

Hi Petar2,
what kind of potentiometer have you used?

I use these, if they are not the best, but are cheap and they work.
Later, if needed are replaced by others of higher quality.
http://doctorsilicio.com/potenciometros/estilo-alpha-16-mm-lineales.html

this model of potentiometer has the end or can turn 360 degrees?

Some people told me that i need to buy potentiometer whit no end (360 degrees) because if the motor do a 360 degrees it doesn't break the potenziometer.

@bsft what do you think about?

you dont need a 360 deg pot. I use them for safety of not breaking, but if you are careful on setup, a 270 deg pot like the one listed is fine.