Showroom 2 Dof DC Motor Rig with Item Profile

Hi,
the clamps will be fittet with 2k glue so they can't go off. Beause i don't want to solder and damage the connectors or interia with too much heat.
The 2 blue ec5 are not needed, they are just for me. I want to make it all unplugable. And have a box with all my electronics in where i can connect my cables (Like pots, Motors, 12v Power for fans etc...), all with a plug for each one.
I hope all parts will arrive this weekend, and i can build my box. I don't know what you mean with the "Tabs" i think you mean the cableshoes. The are going into my controllerbox and are for inner connection to relay, Fusebox and other things.
If i have finished i'll post a picture maybe it's more clear then.


shannonb1:
nice that you like it. It is made out of 6mm acryl. I would use this because there is enough space to through the pot on and it's really stiff.

You wont damage the Tabs on the PSU from soldering. As long as you do thing's properly. How do you plan to "glue" them to the PSU ?

Soldering is the "correct way". If you're afraid of damaging something inside the unit, there looks to be enough room for a heat "sink".
I use a pair of hemostats that lock and I can solder right next to a component without worry.

Good Luck.

I plan to stick them in, because they are fitting very thight. Than i would fill the front with the glue. If done this a while ago for another project and it's still workin fine.
But after your replys I thinik I solder them.
Today mostly all parts for electronics are arrived, and i hope i can finish all this weekend.

In backing up your decision to solder - Agree with Nick and cthiggin. I would caution against just gluing them in, you might have got away with this in a low current application, but there is going to be some serious current flowing through this connection which could possibly cause you all sorts of issues even a fire (seen it happen).

Yes Solder and be done with it As your already planning to use the ec5's to be able to unplug stuff If needed. I personally use deans for my connectors as i have tonnes of them from my RC stuff.

how it should look

Hello,
thanks for the detailed info. Today i soldered my Plugs to the terminals. I hope this is ok too. It don't looks very fine. Maybe i need a higher wattage soldering Iron.


I made some Process with the controlbox too tht i want to show you. I changed my idea a little bit, because the box is a little bit too small. At the moment i use this dead mmonster moto for positioning.
For cooling i have bought some coolers mentioned in a earlier post.
Is it ok to use to 70x70x15mm fans, one over each cooler? And some openings on the side to let the hot air going out.

I would advise cutting off those plugs and solder Just the wire itself, as i have pictured.

Flux is your friend, and once both joints are tinned thing's should be relatively easy.

Flux REALLY is your friend - and it "appears" the joint was "not" quite hot enough, as the solder kind of balled up on you.
No doubt, it would probably work just fine, as is, but you sure don't want to have go back in the middle of a race and make a repair...

I soldered the cables with a higher wattage solderin iron and it loks good now.
Building the electrics did take a little longer as expectet, but i have nearly all parts.
I finished the housing at weekend and only waiting for some connectos for the inner wires.
Below are some pictures.

Sorry for the wireing, but the cabels are not connected now so they are not in place and shortened to length.
On the second Picture you can see the input power cables which are going to the fuseholder later. On the last Picture you can see the two Motor output cables, two Pot cables, Little Dc Plug for 12v for fans and a plug for usb cable and emergency switch cables.
I made some openings for the air to come in and out and wrapped it all in some carbon foil. Maybe i need to get some better foil, because this one is very bad.

I take it your are mounting Dual fans, What size is the opening your working with ? Remember smaller fans = Lower CFM,

I will use the Xilence coolers mentioned by Pit in this thread http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/xilence-cooler-for-moto-monster-sparkfun.6277/
I also thing about addin two small fans to the front blowing the air out of the two openings.

Edit, sorry i read something wrong in your post. The top openings are 60mmx60mm and the side openings are 45mmx50mm.

I can't wait to read and see more on this, good luck with it I hope to follow in your footsteps one day

Hello,
just a little update.

Sorry for beeing so long inactive, but i had very little time so i can't work on this project.
Last thing i did was making a wood platform for motor mounts and finishing electronics.

But the waiting had also something good. I get very much of 30x30mm maluprofile in different length for free. Now i have more time and hope i can get this project finished. But first i have to make a new sketch for the upper platform to use as much of the free aluminium profile as possible, because they are very short (max. c.a 50cm).

I hope i get the time to make some pictures this week and finish the new design.

Hi,
here are some pictures.
Nothing is screwed to the platform yet, it's just for get an idea of placing the parts.

The box is nearly complete. Only the Usbport and powersupply for arduino and fans is missing.
In the front the killswitch you see is for triggering the Relays and stop the Motors.
I used shielded cables for the pots.

This week i got some time to make the ujoint new. Like mentioned before in this thread i had id cut wrong last time. Today i removed the baseplate but i was very unshure where to cut.

Belwo i pastet an image of the actual part. The white lines indicate my cutting lines. After cutting it has an overall length of 23.5mm. I'm afraid to make it to short, and the plate is touching the ground in the front. But i also wan't to make it as short as possible, so there is no ladder needed to get in my sim
Maybe someone can give me an advice?

For the best movements and the less strain on the electronics, you need to place the Knuckle(uni) as close to the base of the chair as possible , Rule of thumb is as close to the CG point of the rig.
The lower the joint is will cause the sim to have more motion but now becomes a top heavy sim, always wanting to roll over.

Hello,
thanks for your usefull Input. I had this problem on my first Simulator where i left the upper part to long and hat the roll over problems like descriped by eaorobbie. Today i cuttet the joint at the white marks. Did you think i net to cut the upper part a little bit more or it is in the acceptable range? Because cutting more will not be so easy because material gets very heavy.