2000 watts server supply: DPS-2000BB (A)

@Alexey specs of the protectors in German: http://www.hager.ch/produktkatalog-...utzschalter/ls-schalter-6-ka/mcn016/97285.htm
These protectors have a rated current of 16A and I have some of them. If I am not grievously mistaken I could use some of these connections for the 2000 watts server supplies (after an electrician has connected the cables and sockets).
Nevertheless the cable where all 3 server supplies are connected - together ~1850 watts - is neither warm nor hot while driving the sim.

You might not be utilizing all 1850 watts. The power supplies might be capable of that amount of power but you might only be drawing 1400 watts. The best way to see your power draw is to buy one of those power meters that monitor your usage on a socket. Then you can see the max and average usage at that point. You can even read out the kilowatt per hour reading and calculate how much it costs to run your sim

Holy shit how they are big! The two babies have been delivered, so hot and pretty nice looking

Surprisingly small for the wattage when u think about it. 3X as much as the 600pb's but really not THAT much bigger in comparison, Wider yes, but I thought it would have been a Far Larger Brick.

THis supply is a 220V/12 A PSU at full load, so no issues are expected at (my) home.

I am also a qualified electrician (although have not worked as one for many years - became a Technician then Systems Engineer in the RAAF and now work as a project manager) and this is good advice, as we push the envelope with these big currents. I have installed a standalone 15amp circuit to my sim room for this and other reasons. Also for information, standard 2.5mm power cable is fine to use for one dedicated 15amp circuit - this is for the Australian standards.

@all: news for sharing...
First experience: after wiring the PSU starts and runs fine - at the beginning. After a certain time (app. 1-2 minutes on Nordschleife) the PSU stops working by shutting down!!!! WTH. If this is true that this PSU has some big problems due to the fluctuating current then .............
PS: no temp issues, the case is cool like a icebox...

Reduced the value of heave in the tuning center -now the PSU works until "Kleines Karussel" - and again it stops working

now i set smoothing (heave) to 5 - no more shut downs. IMO if the winches are oscillating (very fast) the PSU thinks there is a short circuit...?

Now tried more power on the winches but less Kp (SMC3), meaning the turns are less hard but the motors are faster moving - no issues (simtools smoothing 2).

I have read in several rc/bitcoin forums the psu is very temp sensitive if overheating. Perhaps my 12cm fan is too far away and not cooling enough the PSU from the side. THe case itself seems cold enough but who knows what is cooking inside...
Tomorrow I will open the case, snip a hole and mount the fan directly on the case.

I am coming to an end. Reducing the drawing current (power) of the winches (SMC3 170 instead 200) but increasing the kp up to 600 for faster turns results in no shutting down anymore. IMO the very high peaks of the winches are too much, so no solution of this issue can be presented for the moment. The snipping of a hole and mounting the fan directly on the case did not change the behavior of the PSU. Thereby the PSU will be rather hot after a certain time (contrary to my very first experiences) so I advise to add any active cooling systems.

@Pit I have the same issue with my PSU (2 in serial to achieve 24V btw, but same problem with one). In fact the server PSU are protected against a lot of things... and when our DC motors stop/reverse they generate power, which is sent over the lines to the PSU. and the PSU is not desisgned for this => failsafe mode. A solution would be to put a diode to avoid current going back to the PSU but dimension engineering argues that the current generated by the DC motors should be dissipated somewhere. The sabertooth 2*32 has such connections for resistor to dissipate current, but my PSU still go to safe mode (less frequently). So my next try will be with resistor and a big diode (like used in automotive)
Anyone having this issue and fixed it succesfully ?

@vthinsel so we are in the same boat What a bother because before I used two Artesyn 7001138-Y000 each 835W or 69A (but very loud PSUs) w/o issues or shutting down (at least 99% durability), now i thought I spend some money for upgrading and bought a stronger one but cannot handle the high demand of current fluctuation or whatever else. Perhaps you are right and the current which is going back to the PSU has to be avoided, but there is some doubt about it referring to my little experience.
At the very first beginning I was trying out some PC PSUs, the winches could be driven but only if I do not change the direction (by using a polarity switch). The motors have a very high demand of current if the direction is changed. This peak could be interpreted by the PSU as a short circuit. It shuts down to protect the hardware. Obviously the Artesyn's have not such protection routine built in. I do not hope I wasted time and money w/o success which I do not like at all , so any solution is much appreciated. At least w all profit from that.
@electronic gurus, it is your turn!

I'll get a couple of diodes probably tomorrow and keep you updated on my tests

So I found a 4A diode which I fitted on the minus side as I noticed that it is generally this PSU that shut down before the other (I have 2 12V PSU in serie to get 24V).
I did forward/reverse many times for several minutes.... no safe mode
The voltage clamp resistor became slightly warm on the sabertooth (9 ohm/25 W). I have the feeling the power is not sent back to the PSU but is dissipated by the resistor.
So far so good. I'll get a more powerfull diode that will be able to cope with the nominal current like this http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/160726/Diode-IXYS-DSEP60-06A-Type-de-botier-TO-247AD?ref=list or diodes found in cars.

@vthinsel : where is located exactly the "voltage clamp resistor", please ?

@vthinsel great news at the moment I am at London and not at home but I will order next week such a diode.

On the sabertooth 2*32, it is located on the P1/P2 ports on the board. Those ports must be configured for voltage clamping but they can also be used for brakes or as general outputs. This is configured through the describe software on your PC.



This is why I changed my 2*25 for a 2*32.
On my previous pictures, they are the "golden" heatsinked resistors. I put them in parallel to get a 9 ohm instead of 18. (with the sabertooth, you get a pair of 5 ohm / 10W in the box)

Cheers.

and if I do not use the Sabertooth like the MMs? Where the Diode can be placed in addition? Thanks!