2DOF compact race / flight with Oculus Rift

Good stuff, it just makes thing's easier to when the parts are the proper size in the first place, I modded mine, but would buy the proper size next time.

I Suggest you do some Serious research first before investing in a lathe, Buddy has mentioned to me many of times on how he wishes he went with a different model/size for this and that reason's. There's also a large scale of quality for some of the cheaper units out there. so choose wisely.

Hello reko19.

Since you have the seat, you can determine the center of gravity of your body and the seat together by using the reaction method (also known as scale and plank method. You can actually do it for the whole moving platform (including your weight and the seat).
That would give you a very precise location for the universal joint, and would reduce the possibility of overloading your motors (critical if you are using SCN5's)
I am including here a link for the method, which is very simple, and if you have a decent scale, can be quite accurate.
Here is the link.
http://www.asu.edu/courses/kin335/documents/CM Lab.pdf

Let me know if you can open the link.

I think a lathe is a bit of an overkill for drilling out a coupler as in this case there is already a pilot hole. You would have more chance of stuffing things up by sanding down the shaft by hand.

Well I'm building a momus cnc already so I can,use them elsewhere. I ordered the 6.35 x 12.7

From 6.35 to 12,7 No way. And i never said to sand down the threaded rod by hand, Chuck that sucker in a drill and spin her up, OR even use the motor itself. Un bolt the pot, fire it up and get sanding. Its how i did my coupler's that i had in 12mm but needed to fit over my 1/2" axles and didn't want to unbolt from the motor.

i was able to download the instructions, thank you. sounds like a fun project.

thank you for the comment, i am planning to figure out the center of gravity and place the u-joint accordingly. for now this is just a placeholder.

I could drill that out accurately while standing on my head. I've done it a thousand times. I guess we will have to agree to disagree.

I meant

well its too bad im in the US that would be interesting to watch. Perhaps a video?

updated the sketch in post 75 with all dimensions.

also fanatec pedals came in last night, surprisingly there is no manuals, no CD included in the package. one would think that for that kind of money they could put a little more user friendly package together.

There's Barely enough material around the 6.35 to 6.35 coupler, its significantly smaller OD compared to a 6.35 to 12mm So while it may be drillable, accuracy would come into question which is Why I would suggest a lathe to keep thing's 100% OR for the 3-5$ the coupler's are worth, BUY the right one's in the first place.

I could lower an attachment point where rods are attached to the seat, this would increase an angle. Appreciate a feedback, looking forward to more comments.

My angle's which are @ a minimum imo, Could be greater to improve motion.

Dont lower the rear arm height to get rear angle, You need to sacrifice floor space to get the proper angles or your motor's wont be too happy with you.

Glad you got it OK. It is a good tool.

I know you are trying to keep it compact, so with the shoulder mounting points and 60:1? gearbox it should not be too far off the mark. Maximum load expected? Don't forget about the stability of the rig with traction loss (allot of sideways inertia going on when in full flight) so go easy. FI my traction loss frame is approx. 1 foot wider. My drive angles are similar to Nicks, but I'm using 25:1 gearboxes.

@SeatTime Gearboxes are 50:1, load should be around 200-225lbs with all the controls mounted. My traction loss frame (bottom) is 12" wider with 6" extra inches on each side. Nick's angles are basically double as compared to what I currently have on my drawing.
@Nick Moxley , I did see these pictures in your thread, was hoping i could reduce the angles to minimize the footprint. need to think about this, unfortunately i can't seem to come up with any other creative solution.

Unfortunately there's no way to cheat leverage.

ok, here is new and improved drawing, not as compact as before but angles more or less as recommended by Nick and SeatTime

where are you planning to mount your castors for the traction loss ?