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2DOF Frame mover - my compact simulator

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by mirkobastianini, Mar 19, 2017.

  1. Bastiuscha

    Bastiuscha Active Member

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    The same information i want too. I can't find ready hall sensors in german onlineshops.


    Edit: Or i can simply solder this one, on a pot?

    https://www.reichelt.de/Sensoren/SS-495-A/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=3190&ARTICLE=151339
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2017
  2. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    The German Element14 site is down right now but they will have these: 6127V1A180L.5FS - SENSOR, HALL, 0.2V, +20V TO -10V, PIN
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Reverb Gold Contributor

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    @mirkobastianini & @Bastiuscha - the Hall sensors I'm using are Honeywell RTP180LVEAA 180 degree sensors. I know Mouser.com and Digikey.com have them. I am certain they will work fine but have not actually used them yet to say for sure. Use them at your own risk. I'm still waiting on some parts and the time to finish the hookup but will let you know as soon as I do that they work, if they work. If you decide to go this route you will also need the connectors and contacts:

    https://www.digikey.com/product-det...ity-solutions/RTP180LVEAA/480-6128-ND/5252730
    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/282087-1/A105021-ND/1860707
    https://www.digikey.com/product-det...-amp-connectors/282110-1/A105220CT-ND/3440490

    Note the red secondary locking bar for the contacts in the product photo at DigiKey. If that is pushed in, they won't insert. You need to have that pulled out as shown in the photo to be able to set them in the connector.

    I pulled those threads I had posted previously. I'll post a full build log later when I get it all finished.

    Halls.jpg
  4. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Reverb Gold Contributor

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    I'm not sure what you mean by soldering that sensor on a pot, but I think you could use it. It depends on if a rotating magnet gives you the right field strength changes for that sensor but they should have application notes at the Honeywell site that would show you how to put it in circuit and actuate it. It's certainly a lot cheaper but you would have to sort out the appropriate magnet to use. I didn't see anything more than the magnetic strength specified in the datasheet. It's also ratiometric so you would need to keep that in mind so the output is in the proper range for the controller you plan to use. And with that, since it is ratiometric, any fluctuations in the supply voltage to that sensor would manifest as changes in reported magnet position. That may not be an issue if you get the supply voltage for it from a well-regulated source but it may be otherwise.
  5. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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    Ok, if it's possible I have 2 questions:

    1) With Hall effect potentiometer, I need to fix this potentiometer to motor? Or I can fix it where I want in the simulator? I ask this because I can't welding or print in 3d nothing. Maybe I'm not fully understand how the hall effect potentiometer works... If I must fix into motors, what I can easy invent?

    2) I re-ask question... What do you think about this motors?. Seems like @noorbeast 's motors...seems good for JRK (15A nominal, 30 peak), and are 62:1, 135W... but maybe they are too fast ?(3700 loaded). Here the datasheet and link (select second option on the site to see this motor)..
    https://www.motioncontrolproducts.co.uk/productimages/cms/PDF/GH1436.pdf
    https://www.motioncontrolproducts.co.uk/products/8/166/dc-brushed-geared-motor-73zyt-120w-135w/

    Please be sincere with me, If they can be good or no for simulator..thanks :)

    Thanks people :)
  6. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Reverb Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I can't say for sure but the motors that I had seen recommended were 180 Watt, 50:1 gearmotors from pgsaw on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEAR-MOTOR-...LL-CRAB-POT-PULL-FEED-SIMULATOR-75-80RPM-50-1

    The one you linked is a bit lower in power and 12 rpm on the output sounds too slow to me. At 12 output rpm, that's 5 seconds full circle or in a setup with 90 degrees output travel, 1.25 seconds stop to stop. It would probably work but you might miss the finer higher frequency movements.

    Hopefully someone else will comment because I'm still building with no experience to go by. Just numbers. @noorbeast?
  7. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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    In the link I have provided you can choose 2 option.. Try to see second motor :)
  8. matthew loomis

    matthew loomis Member

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    The bracket holding the potentiometer should mount to the motor. The motor will twist and torque against your frame. You don't want to transfer that to any pot or encoder. Just a few degrees will quickly destroy a pot.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  9. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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    Ok, and this is necessary even if I'm using @Zed potentiometer? Or Can i not fix this kind of potentiometer to motors?

    I'm try to understand wich choice is better for hall potentiometer..

    on the other hands, @Zed I think you have see the first motor on the link I provide. I'm thinking to buy second, but I don't know if can be good for my situation... maybe @noorbeast can help us ;)
  10. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    • Like Like x 1
  11. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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    Uff....any other sites in wich I can buy new motors good for my sim?
  12. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Basically the options are -

    Canada: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEAR-MOTOR-...L-FEED-SIMULATOR-75-80RPM-50-1-/371596157992?

    UK: https://www.motioncontrolproducts.co.uk/

    China: https://longway.en.alibaba.com/product/737788295-200070899/WORM_DC_MOTOR.html

    Australia; https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/1...ve-geared-motor-200w-21-256-rpm-7.5-45nm.html

    Or if you change your mind about the JRKs then Simukit is a European option and their 350W motors with Sabertooth are even more powerful than the above listed option, with the Sabertooth being pretty much bullet proof, my advice is do consider it: https://simukit.com/
  13. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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    As usual, thanks for your time @noorbeast .

    Ok, now I must take a decision. I will discard simukit, because motors works on 24V (I want to use 12V) and I'm really temptated of JRK.

    I should discarding Australia too, because motors and shipping are too expensive (shipping in Italy is around 120 dollars).

    So I'm staying with 2 choice:
    1. pgsaw
    2. motioncontrolproducts
    Let's start to analyze what they can offer me..
    1. pgsaw
      1. 12 V (ok)
      2. 50:1 (ok)
      3. Torque: 50/60Nm (I think)
      4. 75/80 RPM (ok for my situation, right?)
      5. 180 W (I think it's ok)
      6. Amp draws???? (I don't know !)
      7. Is motor new? (I don't know...I will ask to seller).

    1. motioncontrolproducts
      1. 12V (ok)
      2. 62:1 (think ok?)
      3. 70 RPM (ok)
      4. 135 W
      5. Torque: 15Nm
      6. Amp draws: 15A (ok for JRK)
      7. Speed (unloaded): 4600 RPM
      8. Speed (loaded): 3700 RPM
      9. Motor speed : 4600 RPM
      10. Is motor new?: yes
    Now, If I have understanding the situation, If I buy first I should limit something regarding power in JRK config, and If I buy second I should limit something regarding speed...right?

    Calculating my sim config, in your opinion wich is better for my situation, @noorbeast ? @Avenga76, what do you think about buying motors with 4600 RPM speed ?

    PS: another stupid question...this motors are left and right? or I can buy 2 and are universal?
    thanks :)
  14. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    The pgsaw motors are better suited to JRKs.

    Use shielded cables, snap on ferrite cable chokes, good PSUs and you should be able to run the pgsaw motors near their limit.

    I am not sure about the pgsaw motors left and right, the gearboxes do come in left and right but I am not sure if the sell them that way. I am pretty sure @shannonb1 uses them, so can perhaps clarify that.
  15. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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    Well, so I wait @shannonb1 response and datasheet from pgsaw response. Thanks noorbeast :)

    On other hands, I should try to understand:
    -how much current draws this motor
    -if I should buy left and right or this kind of motor is universal (i'm completely noob on this!)
    - if this motors are new

    When I have understand this thing I will buy it
  16. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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  17. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
  18. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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  19. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I used the motors that came with the motion dynamics 25:1s, but have swapped the gearboxes for 60:1s.
    • Like Like x 1
  20. mirkobastianini

    mirkobastianini Active Member

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    Yesterday i've read some topics about JRK, and it seems a very limited board with this kind of motors. @noorbeast , Do you think I will should limited power of JRK with this kind of motor? I'm waiting response from pgsaw about datasheet...I must know how much current this motor draws.

    Anyway, now in my house I have a new Arduino Mega....maybe....i'm little temptated about using it with one Sabertooth...but I don't know if this can be a good choice. I want something durable in time. I think you must limit power with your motor...do you have encountered any issues using JRK?