2dof project

Whoops, was wondering when you would pop up @Pit
Its more a comment at the attitude of the french forum guys and their set ups.
That sim design, I used several years ago and it works, but not very well compared to a desk racer frame.
I didnt say ards were better or worse, just what they claim is incorrect. You have proved ards do the job fine on yours.
ask @eaorobbie about JRK and winches

Thanks for this conversation, I'm beginning to see what you mean.
What you say is right, I've never heard of JRKS before, only arduino.

But, I think that everyone has to start with something that he is capable of.
For me, it was following french boards and tutos, and yes, most of them talks about arduino.

So I'm not worried about that, I'll have a look at your solution, and maybe it will be the basis of my future projects (who knows)
It's not a problem for me, I'm fond of doing again and again the same things, and since the beginning, I knew that my simu would have several transformations, so maybe I'll talk with you later about JRKS (weel, it depends of the cost as well).

Oh WOW is that alot of flex in Everything. I dont foresee thing's lasting terribly long with that amount of movement.

Uhuh, isn't it ?
Two things are wrong : the bottom plate, and the squares of the motors (thought it was reinforced but no)

First thing, will have another plate 34mm thickness, should be alright
Second thing, I'll try to find other squares, or put two squares together to avoid the moves seen on the video
I also think about making something to fix the potentiometer directly to the motor, so that it will follow the moves (but I have to reinforce anyway)

JRKS $99 US each, probably why people use Arduino, so the $50-$70 they save can go towards the extra few hundred they spend on a fancy seat or CSS wheel. They tend to forget the motion side of things, they just want good looks, not good performance. Unless you go to the extent @Pit has with his Arduino based ride, thats a ton of time spent on the ard settings.

or maybe make a base like this instead

Well, yes and no.
The total cost is a part of the problem, but not only.
For me, it was the most explicite tuto I found in french, which is important for me.
And although your solution seems to be very interesting, i really don't know if I had tried this way : I'm a beginner, not an expert in DIY, and it was important for me to have feedbacks in french, as my english is not that excellent (especially technical terms)

But I'll have a look at that for the future, thanks

I've never had an issue with the JRKs, but have an Ard and a couple of MM in transit for some motor testing. Will post my thoughts when I get to that stage. @Pit rig seems to work fine with the Ard/MM, even with a flexing chain drive.

My rig has no flexing chain drive! It is a 100% directly driven seat mover. The pots are driven by the chain...
@bsft again is out of information about Ard. Ard is neither complicated nor you save only 50 $. Remember 2 jrks cost 200$, an Ard and one MM 21$ (for wiper motors), two MMs + Ard 34$ (for 200W motors), 4 MMs + Ard 60$ (winches f. e. 750W). I am not an electronic guru, but the Ard way is simple enough for noobs like me. Ard parts are running smoothly and if something has blown after months or years the replacement parts are cheap.

Ok oK @Pit , you win again, I am code hopeless so I have to use JRKS

This is the very best - and wrong. I have spent a ton of time on simtool settings. Please...I would like to help the community but I don't like to "fight" against wrong information.

Who says you have to learn the code you are using with Ards? Do you know the code of the jrks? (They have one for sure)

I'm not having a go at your rig @Pit, gee I was so impressed that I have gone out and purchased a Ard and some MMs and yes I knew that chain drove your pots, but I do know from experience that any flex in the feedback system is bad. I originally had a geared drive running my pots and noticed an improvement in resolution when I changed to a direct drive (absolutely no flex). Just something to think about.

@SeatTime sorry for misinterpretation you are right any flex has to be avoided.

JRKS have firmware loaded in them already and the utility program has simple PID and MOTOR setting commands that can be changed easily and quickly. I Looked at and read about the SMC3 utility, its too complicated and too time consuming for me.

need to get brain into gear

Yes, the world is bigger than just JRKs

@Cataron
Thanks for posting this up! I have also bought the Wanegain SimuKIT and trying to find a few quiet days to start it. Hoping I can next week.

I saw the flexing in your board. Wow! Is that because of the 18mm wood? You said you also reinforced it? And it still flexes like that?

Do you think the wooden brackets Wanegain used helped give structural support to disperse the force?

Yes I think this way of building is much better but I'm not 100% sure
The thing is you have to find reinforced squares for the motors.
This is what is wrong with my building, the potentiometers lose some information.
I glued two pieces of wood for the plate together to be sure it won't break, but it has made the whole piece to be very flexible
But I think the main problem is the fixation of the motors

@Cataron
I have the same brackets(squares) for the motor. What do you suggest for reinforcing it?
It doesn't look bad in Wanegain's video. Do you think the flexing of your base is adding to the effect? If the base was stable, it would probably be more secure?