2dof to 3dof DIY Seat mover

Polou's ordered along with the proper usb wires. Damn shipping option scaring me into spending more on shipping. lol

Seat's going to the welder in the next day or so to get the frame done up, also Buddy might have sourced me a Quad CV to use instead of a U joint.

Cv joints dont lean properly like a uni joint I found and cv tend to have a bit of twist in them as well. Not the preferred choice, but give it a go

what do you mean by lean properly ? remember i will be in a perma leaned situation with my seat angle the way it is.

Sorry, probably not clear, if you can get a steering uni and a cv joint, move each from side to side and you will see what I mean. Yes I know your seat will be leaning back.
I dont see why a cv joint should be an issue.
Sorry, I went off tangent.

This is essentially what buddy has for me, Random pic off google but you get the idea, im getting it tomorrow so will have a better idea of what the feeling is.









Question for you too dave, I have about 10" of space under the seat(centered NOT balanced) minus the seat frame material to fill with this CV. Do i want the Joint as High as possible to the seat or as low as possible to the base to be as close to the motor mounting height. Or in the center ?

here's a crude Paint edit, and thinking now i did the center of balance way off but w/e its more the height of the CV i need to know.

Cool job...

you need the actual rotating joint as high and as close as possible the the bottom of the seat, the rest can be as long as you like reaching to the bottom of the frame.
I looked at the pic, thanks for that. If you are not too heavy and i just checked that in another message, the position of the arms is a bit close allowing with the seat leaning as it, if you can go back a few more degrees (photo looks to be about 10 ish deg angle), like 15-25 deg angle and spread the same out the side, you will get the right leverage. If you cannot go wider at the back, as long as you allow more angle from the back it will be ok.
Best way to check centre of gravity, is set the seat up on its frame, sit on it, lean back, and roll it over a length of pipe back and forth until you find the balance point, mark it and thats where your pivot goes.

CV joints dont roll over their centres like a Uni joint does, they are a compound joint, But will work but tend to feel a bit wierd in motion if you have been on a sim with a Uni. If near new or in good condition should be fine as a starter and as @bsft has stated please keep the actual joint as close to the chair bottom as possible, this inturn will lessen the weight the motors need to hold and will result in a truer movement.

Ok Cv up High and more angle on the rear arms, I can do more length in the base and that sketch isn't accounting for the few more inches i can go wider before the base wont fit in its storage location. the width i showed with rules how far i can go.

MIGHT be able to squeeze out another inch or 2 from this angle. Can i cheat and use a narrow top mount to get more angle from the side ? Dave i know on your frame the seat frame is the same width at top and bottom. Can i narrow it up and get the angle or will that result in something i dont want

rough example, square frame in red, narrowed top frame in yellow



The CV im getting is near brand new, had 1 side fail on a unit and buddy says the good side is slop free. we'll see in a few hours when i get it in my hands.

Cool should be good, and yes lean the arms in 5-10 deg like shown with the yellow line , should help to hold heavier drivers and steady the sim once in motion.

Awesome thanks robbie, i do know how angle and leverage works" technically" but again would prefer to do this Once and not have to come back and revisit parts. lol

I still dont know how it works, but it works

Hi I used the 500W Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply AC 100V-240V to DC 12V 40A that I bought from ebay from HK ,two of them as suggested by bsft, they work fine, feel heavy are good quality 12v PSU, and were easy to wire up .
I have 2dof simulator with Pololu JRK 12v12,Worm Drive Motor 12V/24V 200W.hope this helps Domenic

Ok So i got my motor's today, Am i flipping the output shaft ? easy as just pop the case off the motor, Open it and flip ?

Oh and got the JRK's also.

got a photo?

and which one if im flipping

Ok thanks for that, @eaorobbie has pulled apart the gearbox and spun the centre around and reassembled the gearbox. I cannot advise which one to change, depends on how you plan to mount the motors.
I havent though, I just run a long enough bolt so left and right sides are even on the output side.
If you look carefully at this photo, http://img225.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=236339340_IMG_20120707_103932_122_915lo.jpg I just set it up with an extra nut on the bolt so the levers sit even
Heres another shot http://img101.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=264600411_IMG_1275_122_510lo.JPG

ok Ill figure out which way i want em and flip and need be, Do you advise drilling the small hold in the gear box output into the bolt ? or is just Tightening the crap out of the bolt enough to hold it in place ?

both
I found a small set of grubscrews at the hardware store, so I drilled a hole through the hollow shaft and into the bolt and tapped a thread and put a grub screw in for good measure

This is what I did, a simple 3,2mm split pin through the 12mm bolt. Have not snapped one yet, and thrash them hard.

Connecting pot I do it like this too