3DOF - C1500´s first Sim Seat

Hi All
The projekt of @Peacemaker105 give me so much ideas so i decided to build the same
At the moment i´m waiting for a lot of deliveries.

The printer is running all night long *lol*

I modded the slider a bit and it looks like this:

Now the push rod can be glued directly to the slider

Here are some more impressions


Stay tuned...
But it will take a lot of time cause of long delivery time from china

@noorbeast : in meantime i will make the video of the fans

kind regards
Peer

Hi folks
I´m still waiting for a lot of parts
But today a well known part was delivered:

I´m very lucky that the german toll did not catch up the parcel.
Otherwise i would had a lot of problems due to missing CE sign on the controller.
The toll in my district is one of the hardest in germany.
They didn´t allow a 10x10cm metal plate with a ball bearing cause there was no printed german handbook in the box.


I tried to get 8mm OD, 4mm ID Aluminium tube to drill the m5 threat in it.
But all i can get is solid alu or 8mm OD 6mm ID tube.

So first i´ve tried to drill solid alu and cut the threat by myself.
First mistake was a broken drill second a broken threat cutter.
So 2 tubes are lost.

Then I went to the hardware store and I found this press fit threat.
They work really great in a 8mm OD 6mm ID Aluminium tube and are very easy to mount.
Just gravel them in

Just a small hint for all who want to build the same

More update will follow when the material was delivered.

Peer

Hi
some news about the assembly of the parts.
Actually it looks like this:




But as you can see, there is something missing.
Yes the FK12 and the clutch is still on the way ...
BUT:

Delivery between end of August and end of September

So i made a bit of case-modding
Ripped of all computer parts and mounted the controller´s


Hopefully the delivery's will arrive soon.

Kind regards
Peer

Looks like you are from Germany.
They have the bearing in stock:
https://www.rc-letmathe.de/CNC-Mech...FK12?source=2&refertype=1&referid=176
Got mine from there, too.

Hi @Dschadu
Yes i´m from south of Germany. Thanks for the link
But:

The FK12 arrived this week so i can assemble the top part
Now only the bottom mounting plate, the upper fitting for the rose joints and the clutches are missing.

So I worked a bit on the cabling of the controllers.
They are in the old PC-Case


To switch on every controller separately i build in 6 fuse-switches

They fit perfect in 2 of the 3,5" Disk slots

The inner cabling is ready to connect to the @Thanos Module.
The parcel his is still in LA Airport but on the way..


The PSU is just fake so i can use this connector as normal


More will come when the last parts have arrived

Last picture for today:


cheers
Peer

That's a great idea re the press fit threads.
I was planning to tap a 10x1.6mm aluminium tube but will look into the press fit threads instead.
I am watching your build with interest as it is very similar to mine. Great work so far.

Hi folks
Can someone please help me make a decision?
It's about the upper connection to the rig
I use the following ball joint with female thread.


Now I have two options:

1. a 5cm threaded rod between ball-joint and top-plug


2. the ball head directly on top-plug

What do you think is the more stable option?

Printed with PETG and 90% filling.

Both fit in the carbon tube and will be glued together.

Thanks for your help

Peer

PS: The winning top-plug will be shared

If the second option is made entirely of peg, I would go for the first one. It will be more solide with a steel rod inside. There is also the option to use a helm joint that is male type directly in the first option.

Hi folks
due to a miss assembly of the FK12 (wrong side of the printed part) i have to disassemble the hole thing
So i decide to change to 600mm ball screws in the same reassembly.
If I see that correctly there are then 7-8cm more movement possibility

Now to my question for today:
What kind of lubrication do you use for the ball screws?
It would be great if i can by it here in Germany

Kind regards
Peer

My mechanical friend told me to use silicone base spray lubrifiant on the screws. That's what I do.

Hi folks
some news from my rig


Today it made the first movement.

First: disconnect and connect in FlyPT Mover 2.9.9
Looks really great:


But i´m not happy with the movement when i try to move it manually in FlyPT Mover.
In the next video i made some "roll" movement


The Settings of the rig looks like this:


The movement is made with a not really fast laptop.

Do you think it could be a performance problem?

Would filters help to smooth the movement?

kind regards
Peer

Are you using Arduino's with smc3? I don't remember and I am too lazy to look it up. Is so, make sure your fpid is well adjusted. That's what had the most effect on the smoothness of my actuators.

69938

I explain a little bit here why I chose those setting for max limits and clip input.

6 DOF from scratch

Hi Pierre
sorry, i was so excited to see the rig moving that i completely forgot to explain a bit of the new rig.

The rig is nearly the same as the rig from @Peacemaker105
I used 80ST motors, 600mm SFU1605 ball screws, a lot of self printed parts and the AMC-AASD15A servo controller from @Thanos

More information will follow.

A view minutes ago i made another test with a filter you described a page before in this thread.

An now it is much smoother than before.

once again, i have to learn much more about the filters...

regards
Peer

Did you have a go on the rig? how Kg it will lift?

Hey mate, everythings looking real good! But i just saw your photo on pierre's page of a failure! What happened man?

Hi Chris
I will try to summarize the last weeks
After I wanted to assemble the last engine, the engine spacer broke when I tightened the lower 4 nuts. Apparently there were problems with the 3D printing.
So I printed new and replaced it.
After that the bottom bearing mount broke when I tightened the same nuts. This is also probably a misprint.
At some point I finally managed to finish all 6 engines.

I started to build the rig and everything looked very good.
Instead of the upper frame I had only a small wooden triangle screwed on.
Without connected PC I tried the first movements with the AMC-AASD15A
In the beginning it looked very good until the moment I tested the rotation.
It turned out that the rotation limits were reached very quickly and the whole rig broke apart.

At that time I still had the rotating joints at the lower end. In the meantime I fixed the joints to have no rotation in the motor. You had the "problem" at the beginning too.
The next setup was then with the metal frame. This was enlarged a bit to have space for the motors.
The first movements went well and as you can see in the video, sometimes a little stuttering.
But with the filter it worked quite well.

Stop and Start of FlyPT Mover: really smooth


Movement roll in FlyPT Mover without filters


Here the idea to use the spike filter came into play.
I tried to configure the filter in the AMC-AASD15A and wanted to test it.
The rewind to the endstop and the drive to the parking position worked without problems.
But then the rig shot up to drive to the middle position.
The upper holders of the ball heads tore out of the carbon tube.
First one, then the whole rig collapsed again and destroyed the engine spacer, bottom bearing mount and the slider.

So disassemble again and print again first.
Unfortunately I noticed too late that the slider was broken on a 2nd motor. In the meantime I have printed this one again.

The main reason why the rig always breaks down is the glueing of the holders for the ball heads.
I tried to glue them into the carbon tube with Araldit 2011, a very good glue.
Unfortunately this glue doesn't seem to connect to the inside of the tube.
As you can see on this picture:

I could remove 5 of 6 holders from the tube by simply turning them. Only one holder seems to hold better.
Currently I'm looking for a better glue to fix the holders in the carbon tube correctly.

So to all who read this:
Which glue can you recommend?
What do you think of Loctite 406?

Yes, i´m a litte bit dipressed BUT:

SeatTime send me this a long time ago:



And do not forget:

Hi folks

I showed the surface of the bonding to a specialist.
His assumption is that the inner surface of the carbon tube was too smooth and probably not grease-free enough.
This explains the smooth and shiny surface of the glue residues.


So I will roughen and degrease the inside of the carbon tubes again.

That "Araldite 2011" can glue carbon can be seen by the way the tube and the slider are glued together.
Here the connection holds very well.

kind regards
Peer

Hi folks

its me again

i glued the holders for the ball heads once again

But i am a little bit afraid of using the rig. I don´t want to crash again.

Actually it looks like this:

The adapter is 20mm inside and 20mm outside the carbon rod.

Inside the "holder" is a M12 threaded rod.

But I have the very bad feeling that 20mm inside the rod is much to less.

In which directions will there be force in this area?
Is there only force in up and down direction or also a bending force for this "construction" of adapter and ball head?
How much force is in the direction of the arrow in this picture?



My next idea was to print a holder that is 50mm inside the rod.
But the i have to go back to the 500mm ball screw cause the 600mm is to long inside the carbon rod.
There is only space for a 20mm holder when the rod is in lowest position.

Please comment what you think about the construction and the force.
I have no knowledge about calculation of a force in such a construction.


But force is only one of my fears
the last time i tested the spike filter in the AMC-AASD15A the rig makes a big jump when it wants to go to the StandBy position.
Calibration and park position was no problem and really slow.
I don´t think that it is the speed of the movement because it is set to 5%
The Settings are:
Park Position = 5%
Park Speed = 5%
StandBy Position = 50%
StandBy Speed = 5%

Spike Filter
Range = 32130
Level = 2520
Speed = Esc=24, Fine=11

@Thanos i have seen the video for the filter very often but i am still not sure how to set it up for a hexapod with 400mm stroke
It would be great to use a filter directly in the hardware.
But actually i am a bit afraid

Thanks in advance
Peer

My holder are made out of steel, because it's less reactive than alluminium with fiber carbon. They are glued. But if I would redo them, I would add some rode to hold them in place.

As for calibration, this is the best video I've seen so far. It is for Dirt Rally.

FlyPT Mover