3Dof sim

noorbeast,
I just didn't remember seeing those earlier............thanks for the update.
BTW, about a year ago, we had a new builder and project where you could actually see the bend/flex in the shafts......

Thanks again,

Here is my first soldering hope its good

Traction loss build

Good welding :


Bad welding :

The reasons may be: too much tin or not hot enough ...

have to agree with @Erwan960
to be honest with you i don't like the way you have soldered the jrk's.
it would be pity damaging them from a bad soldering.
take a look here and watch some videos and you will be an expert in no time.
just practice somewhere else and then go for the jrk's.

How a properly soldered joint should look

One thing to remember the traction loss doesn't move "side to side" but rotates on a Large Circle Axis. So your Wheels on the base need to be Angled towards the front of the rig slightly or they will "scrub" when the frame tries to move from side to side.

I also made this mistake but have a Fresh set of Extra large castor's that i have modified that Hold 10X more weight and have WAY beefier bearing's so Will make thing's that much easier to slide. Currently i can push it with 1 finger but does take a bit of force.

Angle I need on the wheel, just need a custom L bracket to mount it to my "Motor mounts"

nope, you havent allowed enough heat onto the circuit board. Its not a difficult thing to fix, but I suggest you find someone to fix it.
Its a matter of holding the soldering iron onto the blobs and letting them re-melt and hopefully they sink onto the board more.

Agreed with dave, but with that much solder on the post, I would be weary of it being too much and overflowing the joint once it flows.

Also looking closely on the far left JRK 2 of the Pot pins are Shorted together. Lucian I Strongly suggest you find someone who's got some time behind a soldering iron to "iron" out these issues. Sorry for the pun Lol.

Ok il try to find a pc store and ask them to make them properly hope they will help me.

Nick where can i buy those castors and how should i modifie them and where should i attach them to my rig?

PC store? is there any electronics parts retailers around there? And I dont mean TV and audio like some retailers claiming electronics sales when there is NOT ONE component in the shop, I mean proper components suppliers.
They would be better.
I did a quick search and came up with this
http://www.thelocal.se/discuss/index.php?showtopic=46609

Those are shops they sell everything. So my bet is a pc shop where they have service and repair

The angle that works for mine is shown in this picture, with the protractor on the castor frame this angle is 15degrees



As to where you can get Castors like this i honestly dont know, I have a place that sells Only Castor's locally so i had quite the selection to choose from. As to how you mount them, Again depending on what style you get might vary on how you mount them.

Everything looks fine for now, You will find the faults and small issues over time, There's no avoiding that. its all part of the game and you get better at fixing as you go along.

Ok i left the jrks to a pro hope so they do xbox ps moding so hope they do a good job left the heatsink that nick sugested to buy he talked something that he nedded to drill in the jrk i toled him to fix with the kooling paste that i bought he toled me that it will not holed i sad to him to fix it for the soldering it will cost me 60 euros

DO NOT drill ANYTHING into the JRK. Paste will hold it once the paste is set up and dried a little. Yes the paste can get warm and the sink can move around thats why i add a tiny blob of shoe goo to attach the heatsink to the large cap the heatsink buts up to. I DO NOT however allow the sink to touch the cap, Just use the Shoegoo as a bridge to ensure it can never wiggle off somehow. Ill get a picture when i do up my next 3 JRK's which should be any day now.

I called them they wont drill only use the cooling paste. Then il do what you did

Pretty scary soldering. It even looks like you have bridged across two pins in the JRK on the left. You really need to de-solder with either a vacuum system or solder wick and start again. I completed the HRHS course (same as NASA uses) many years ago so maybe I'm fussy. Plenty of good videos on the Web to help you out, all the best with your project. Also FYI you can purchase heat sinks that will fit onto the JRKs which come with self adhesive thermal tape. JAYCAR has them in OZ. Update: Seems most of this has already been covered by the other members, if you cannot find someone to help then just practice on some scrape circuit board, and once you feel confident go back to the JRKs.

Ok my new soldering is it ok now



And will this button work