$450 Mige Direct Drive Wheel using MMOS and AASD

even more off topic: im pretty sure the logitech shifter uses a pot for the reverse gear as i could get analog readings from the z axis when i was modding mine. but you can read it as a digital switch 0% open=off 100%open = on.

yeah i think it still sued the pot section, but a switch to indicate it was the reverse gear

thanks a lot, mate. Now it works without vibration, I also found that connected gnd from the stm32 to the chassis of the cn3 was improving a lot, the only doubt I have is that putting parameter 190 to 0 with the encoder at 0 I without force to pier the engine off alone, I have to put parameter 190 to -90 so the rotor's dead, this is normal?

Good stuff mate. I have pn190 on -100 on my system, haven't played with that value since I originally set up the system.

in your system if you put 190 to 0, the rotor turns?

yes i am quite sure it does. I can try it tonight after work.

okay, thank you so much for your time, it's to know if my team is missing any parameter, or it works well, thank you very much, mate

i experimented with pn190 and had a breakthrough. -140 makes all the oscillation go away.

also to reply to the original question, pn190 at 0 is even worse then -100.

for anyone else reading this, i am not using TDD DAC board, i have a low pass filter. and a 90st-m04025 motor

i've checked all the parameters I don't improve the centre of the MMOS at more than 20% I have a / st130 M15015 adjustments will be different values, what I've checked is that with a DAC 1k 1uf is much more sensitive without prejudice to the engine noise I've even had to lower PN189 to 20, I'm just missing the material to mount it on the cockpit i test, with the DAC to 2k2 1uf to get the same force i answer I have to put PN189 to 40, thank you

hello, perfect, I have it mounted in the cockpit, I will pass photos when I can of the mmos configuration i of the game, to calibrate the wheel without getting complicated you have to train in the game, put in mmos spring to 0, the steering wheel will turn in some direction alone, put the parameter Fn007 you put ok, and ready calibrate it auto, in the PN190 you will see that has changed the value that will be almost the perfect value,
PN198:1000
PN188:1
PN189:75
PN259:1
with dac 2k 1uf
Motor 130st-15015
Thank you all for helping me

cool stuff, did not know it can auto calibrate! thank you for sharing

It can calibrate automatically, but if you turn it wrong way it might spin like crazy for 20 times. You should always calibrate to the shortest path:

Silly question Guys , TDD FFB wheel all up and running and wheelcheck testing done and seesm fine , now trying to get wheel working with Pcars but it does not seem to be recognised or come up in the wheel confgiuration section , Can i ask what description for MMOS are you using to get whhe to work with Pcars or AC or Kart Kraft . Cheers

Do you have other joysticks plugged in along the TDD? Perhaps they mess with appearance order... especially if they also offer analog axis x and y.

(Long time lurker, first time poster)

A couple of questions about duplicating @Peacemaker105's work. I've read so ... so ... many threads here that maybe I'm just getting confused.

The first challenge I think is that I'm in the US and until my kids move out I don't have a dedicated rig. Which means 220v isn't going to be a thing for me. Peacemaker made reference to Thanos's YouTube for the 120v answer. I saw his 'Simple Wiring suggestions for AMC-AASD15A systems' video (sorry, too new to link) where he does talk about some 120 vs 240 but if I understand correctly, that's just for powering the motor driver itself, the driver still needs 240 to power the motor itself.

@Thanos: I see that the TDD is out of stock at the moment. Any ETA for them being back in stock or at least ... do you plan on making more? Related: when using the TDD what's the day-to-day software stack needed to run the wheel? As in, how many different pieces of software do I need running to get the wheel and the game to talk?

Thanks guys for posting all this info out there. When my kids move out one of the first things I'm doing is throwing out their beds and building a DIY 6 DOF rig. That's not for another 6 years though so I'll be interested to see what the state of the art is then. Lord knows, maybe we'll all be using pneumatic linear actuators so we can fully replicate throwing ourselves though windows.

hi @Thanos for these tests i only have the tdd and amc plugged into my pc's front usb sockets . amc and actuators work fine as i use AI driver in PCAR to check operation , i know steering is disabled in AI mode , so went back to main menu options and hoped i could select MMOS Wheel for new setup and calibration in game ,but as mentioned im not seeing it in the list of configuarable devices ... what name would i expect to see pcars cheers , just in case im looking for wrong description ?cheers

The AASD-15A servos have only one power input (not separate for the servomotor). You can power it with either 220v or 110v (by adjusting a parameter for 110v). It will work fine on both.

For the TDD micro boards, I'm waiting for more PCB boards to be delivered and start assembly of another batch. That could take 2 weeks perhaps before its are ready to place it in stock on Tindie store.

The TDD is registered on the PC as "native" FFB joystick device so it will be compatible with all games that support FFB joysticks. No other special software needs to be run for the TDD MMOS firmware joystick to operate... just the TDD wheel and the game.

Awesome, thanks for correcting me @Thanos. That's awesome ... I might actually be able to pull this off: signed up for the in-stock alert for the TDD. As luck would have it, Google's algorithm finally figured me out and when I went to search for the TDD Tindie page again it also listed your "Powering AASD-15A servo drives with 110v USA" video. Sorry for not coming across that earlier, I swear I spent 15ish minutes looking for it.

A few follow up questions: what kind of amperage should I plan for? The 130ST-M15015 that you link to from the TDD Tindie page lists 9.5A @ 220v which sounds not great for a 15A 120V circuit that's also running a couple of PCs, monitors, ect. Related to the motor: is the one you link on the TDD Tindie page still a motor/vendor you recommend? Lastly, for the purposes of a DD wheel, which torque number matters; rated or peak? After reading the many DD threads here I've come to accept that there's no real point in having a wheel that will rip your arms off, cool as that might be.

Spent the afternoon researching motor options/pricing. Maybe a better way to ask the amperage question above is this: if I got something more powerful now (say a 130ST-M10015) would I be able to dial down the power for the time being if it was pulling too much? That way, when I do get a chance to have dedicated power I already have the motor.

hi, a question? Is there any way to remove the steady beep from AASD-15A?