$450 Mige Direct Drive Wheel using MMOS and AASD

Thanks for the advice, you are right i need to give it some time.

I like the idea of a silent servo driver !!!!

They would probably work good on the sim also

I will try the stm32 jumper

Yeah i do too, but i have 6 more of them running the 6dof so it's something I cant avoid and have gotten use to haha.
Let us know how you get on.

@Peacemaker105
Hi Chris
Thanks for the information with calibration. Never read about it.
I made a calibration (Pin25 + Pin13 shortcut -> Fn007) and Pn190 is set to -192
I have to reduced Pn189 to 25 and the motor is silent and not turning.
If I go higher than 30, the wheel is vibration a lot.

But I guess I have the next problem (Or still the same with other symptoms ).
If i turn the wheel, there is no end stop.
But if I come near to the point where the end stop should be, the wheel starts to turn again in the direction I have turned.
It is not possible to stop the turning.
That is in both directions.
If I try to calibrate with the VNM UI the motor is only running in one direction and after a while it stucks and make horrible noise.

Any idea what i can test next?

BTW: All done with a new STM32F407VGT6 Board.

EDIT:
If the STM32 is connected, Dn017 shows 3,33
With a shortcut Pin25-Pin13, Dn017 shows 0,17
So i set Pn190 by calibration actually to "-173"

My biggest questions are:
- Why there is no spring force?
- Why is there no end stop?
- Why does the motor start to turn if I turn over the point where the end stop should be?

So,it's an end stop in the wrong direction.
PN191

F*CKING AWSOME !!!

That was the last hint I ´ve needed.
Tested it shortly this early morning and it works.
End stop and calibrating works fine.

It could only be a "early morning feeling" but it feels like turning counterclockwise is stronger than clockwise.
Is this possible and also adjustable?

yay!! also just thinking about it.. you could probably just run fn007 with the cable connected with the pins where they need to be while operating to get that number closer to "0" Just have the estop released so you're registering the voltage fluctuations

As for testing the wheel.. test in game and see if you notice any difference in forces in direction. thats the ultimate test. i find FFB from a game is better way to test than user effects. I've never heard anyone bring up that issue before so maybe it is just your early morning brain haha

There is no "early morning brain"
At this time of day, only a basic reaction is possible.
That is why the description of a feeling is also rather difficult.

More test will follow later today (hopefully in a awake moment *lol*)

Wow! Great firmware! It allows to use stm32's internal DAC instead of external PWM to Voltage that we have to use with MMOS. Gonna try it today.

Hi
I got it up and running.
First test run with DirtRally2.0 was very impressive.
I use the analog of the STM32.

It is important to calibrate the wiring after setup.
To see the difference use dn017 and set pn191 correct.

But i still have some problems with the combination of VNM wheel, Arduino micro pedal&shifter and the buttons on blueHID.
Not all 3 controllers are working at the same time.

Also the wheel is not recognized in ProjectCars2, but padels and shifter are working.
I will test Assetto Corsa today...

If someone has any idea how all 3 controllers will work at the same time, give me an hint please...

cheers
Peer

do you have a separate controller for your pedals ? what do you use ?

Hi @Gadget999
I´m testing different setups at the moment.

Setup 1:
- VNM Wheelbase on STM32
- Shifter and Pedals on Arduino Micro (self adapted software)
- Buttons on blueHID

Setup 2:
- Pedals and VNM Wheelbase on STM32
- no shifter due to missing support in VNM wheelbase.
- Buttons on blueHID

Setup 2 is much more stable due to problems in Win10 with more than 2 different joysticks.
If you use more joysticks, you lose often different connection. In my case it is often the blueHID which will be lost.
Not so funny if you can´t switch the gear any more in the middle of a race...

I hope @Hoantv will but G25/G27/G29 shifter support in his next update

cheers
Peer

That seems not correct ! Maybe your ưindow has problem. I tried many device without a problem.
PC need choose legecy wheel !
If G25,27,g29 is xy shifter, it can be used in future when i release next update !

BlueHID doesn't work in gamepad mode in DR2.0 from my experience. Only way to get it to work is by configuring the BlueHID to emulate keyboard keys (in Uconfig). Everything should work after that. I use an AASD VNM wheel, fanatec pedals, BlueHID button box, and Arduino Micro e-brake.

I posted this in HoanTV's (VNM) Discord. Thought I'd post it here for those who want to try it out...

For AASD users: I have found that I get a MUCH better FFB experience using the Signal 00..50..100 mode in VNM rather than Signal + DIR.

Quickly, here are the steps I did to setup VNM and AASD in the 00..50..100 configuration.

1. Engage e-stop for this entire process… you don’t want the motor able to turn as we will be changing the analog voltage offsets significantly.

2. Configure VNM to use Internal DAC and Signal 0..50..100 on the Hardware Tab (** If you are using the Thanos TDD board, I believe you set the Controller as External DAC, not Internal DAC, but I am not sure as I don’t use TDD).

3. In this configuration zero force will be in the middle of the DAC voltage range (so half of 3.3v = 1.65v), Counter clockwise forces will be negative voltage, and clockwise forces will be positive voltages. Therefore, we must set the analog voltage offset (Pn190) to be zero when the DAC is sending 1.65v, while also accounting for the non-zero resting voltage of the analog pin.

4. Using Dn017, we can see the raw voltage being received on the analog pin. Dn016 will show the interpreted voltage for the torque command after summing the voltage at Dn017 and the value of Pn190. Our goal is to get Dn016 to read zero when no force is being sent to the servo driver. So, with e-stop enabled and the wheel centered, verify no User Forces are checked in the VNM setup. Check the voltage at Dn017 (mine is 1.75). Now, set Pn190 to the NEGATIVE of this value (in mV). So, my Pn190 is set to -1750.

5. Verify that Dn016 is now at zero voltage with no forces being sent. Enable the motor by disengaging the e-stop, and test the Spring Force in VNM User Effects. If correctly configured, spring force should work correctly with much higher fidelity around center.

6. Recalibrate within VNM and you should be all done. Open your game and enjoy. See the difference by feeling the road details on the straightaways of good laser scanned tracks.

Also, your maximum torque value will now be + or - 1.65v, so you may need to adjust your gain on Pn189 to increase the overall force.

Hi,

So I've decided to built one of these wheels but using the DISC1 board and a 90ST-M03520 with driver for the aliexpress link that Thanos posted earlier in the thread. I'm trying to use VNM and the internal DAC.

I've wired it up the same as what is shown on the first page which didn't work, and so subsequently also moved the wires from PE9 and PE11 to PA4 and PA5 but I've got an issue.When I press calibrate the wheel doesn't move. It would spin one way when I released the E-stop but I've since calibrated the idle voltage on Pn190 so now it doesn't spin but also has no resistive force or move when calibrating.

I think this might be a wiring problem, @Milt I've tried doing what you've done above and still no results. Which pins do you have 7 and 25 from the DB25 going to?

Any help much appreciated. Thanks

Use PA4 and PE11 for internal DAC + Dir.

PA4 --> Pin 25
PE11 --> Pin 7

Thanks, I had those the other way around however calibrate still doesn't seem to turn the wheel.

In jog mode I can get it to rotate. When I rotate the wheel it rotates in VNM so the encoder is working, just can't seem to get it rotate from VNM.

Thanks for you help so far.

Odd... Hitting Apply and Save from the hardware tab? If you enable Spring in User Effects (even without calibration) does it work after you hit Apply and Save?

Ah so now it is turning, just constantly anti clockwise. Thanks

When I press calibrate it stops moving, if I manually rotate it around the calibration once it has done full lock to lock it then rotates again.

Sounds like your analog voltage isn't zeroed. You'll need to adjust Pn190 to get the wheel to stop turning. If you are using the DAC + DIR mode, the easiest way I have found to do this is to check Dn017 when no forces are being sent (you can do this with e-stop enabled), and it will tell you the current voltage on the analog pin. Now you can compensate for this voltage by setting Pn190 to the negative voltage (in millivolts) shown on Dn017. Use Dn016 to verify zero voltage after Pn190 adjustment.