$450 Mige Direct Drive Wheel using MMOS and AASD

These are 2 questions.

1:I use 2 usb's 1 for data, 1 for the 5V
(You can use the external voltage input with a 3,5mm jack...I think.)

2: upload the vnm.hex or mmos.hex to your STM32F407G.

3: check with mmos/vnm software.

4: resolder the disco1 to DB25 pins.

5: try again.

Thanks for the reply,

In the end I connected both usb inputs and the steering wheel was immediately detected.

As soon as I connected the steering wheel it started to rotate and to have very strange reactions, which is normal given the homemade nature of the project.
Just a little bit of flapping (but very little, thanks to the immense contribution of this community) and the steering wheel came to life.

Amazing, is the right word to describe how it works.
- Zero noise.
- No sliding roughness.
- Incredible feedback perceived in all driving phases (I discovered that ACC has curbs, the car does not run away without the possibility of taking it back and really much more).

I have always driven with a thrustmaster tx and tried a friend's simcube pro several times, I can guarantee you that the sensations are very close to the simcube, after testing it only for a few minutes, I removed the thrustmaster from the support, I put back in the box and put on sale online.

I used the VNM software and followed the procedure described by Milt in this topic, I'm afraid to change the parameters from as they are because the steering wheel is really good, but I feel that it can express even more torque (130ST-M06015).
I already have brought the gain from 39 to 50 (pn189), I would like to try to raise it a little more but I don't want to do any damage.
How can I understand what is the maximum limit to which I can set it?

Zero noise ? are you using the AASD driver ?

Yes, aasd 20A

I will post a video as soon as possible

Are you using the 0--50--100 setting from Milt?
And the internal DAC (Pa4 to pin 25 from the DB25?)

With the internal DAC the max voltage is 3,3V instead of 5V with the MMOS setting.
Therefor you can up the PN189 to 100 (or begin with 75). And if the servo is clipping, you can always put the PN189 down.
With the 0--50--100 setting most likely you have a big offset in PN190. If you take away the USB from you STM32 the wheel is turning a lot (It goes back to PN190=0) You can put an extra safety to the STM32, so if communication is lost, the wheel doesn't spin:

And also change these settings on your AASD:
Pn052 = 7 (E-Stop) ## pin 6 AASD
Pn053 = 18 (DIR) ## pin 7 AASD
Pn055 = 1 (ServON) ## pin 8 AASD
Pn076 = 1 (E-Stop Reset)

Yes, that's right, and in fact if I remove the USB socket the steering wheel starts to turn dangerously.
Thanks for your suggestions.

For the Mosfet, you only have to do the pink lines.
The other pins stays the same as you have now.

I tried VNM with automobilista 2 and dirt rally 2, it detects the steering wheel but the force feedback is not present.
Has anyone tried?
What could be the problem?

https://github.com/hoantv/CarSimulatorFirmware/wiki/Dirt-Rally-2.0

Thanks it works.
For automobilista 2 is there something like this?

If you don't mind me asking, which RIDING Motor you are using?

NVM, I found your early post, it a RIDING M060E2A, so from that BOM it listed a RIDING driver but I assume you switched it to AASD?

Hey guys,

I'm going to start this project using the guides and information here. Mostly because I like tinkering with electronics, but also because I can't stomach the nearly $3k a decent Fanatec setup would cost me here in Canada. There's a lot of info here and it looks like the project has evolved a bit since the beginning. I was hoping someone could please confirm for me that this list is correct and has the most up to date recommended parts?

I'd really appreciate it, so that I can pull the trigger on ordering parts and will have time to study up the build details before it arrives.

Thanks!


Is the M10015 the ideal servo, or should I go with a higher RPM model?

130ST-M10015 with servo driver - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

The TDD boards appear to no longer be available. Is the "STM32F4DISCOVERY" the best option?

Discovery kit with STM32F407VG MCU - https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/stm32f4discovery.html




I've got a 3d printer and a ton of DB and other connections and cables as well as the equipment to weld a mount.

130 10015 is what I did. I'm on the disco board. (Tried MMOS & VNM)
Thanos board is the way to go. Still available.

I'll have more TDD boards in stock this week, join the waitlist to get notified...

Ditch this TwoWin seller. Go for MasterJiang instead. 130ST-M10010 is a bit cheaper and good performance.

Thanos TDD is the way to go. Still available at his shop https://www.thanos-motion.com/products/thanos-tdd-controller/

Thanks guys, glad I asked. The TDD board links in the Hackaday article go to a tindie page showing the boards as Retired.

Much appreciated!

The retired Tindie page mentions the new location where you can find them...

I've just built this setup using a 130ST-M10010 and AASD servo drive from Master Jiang 3SMT over the past few months. I used a STM32F407VGT6 board I had already, and I am running VNM firmware using the DAC output on the board with the safety shutoff circuit described above - it works well.

https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...using-mmos-and-aasd.14657/page-23#post-214374

Configured DAC output as per this post:

https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...using-mmos-and-aasd.14657/page-21#post-213019

Biggest issue I had was EMI problems - particularly glitchy on the amplifier circuit for my load-cell brake. Solved by shortening the power leads to the motor, wrapping the cable in conductive tape, and grounding everything I could find including those cables, motor housing, pedal frame, etc.

For what it's worth I was worried that the small MiGE would not be enough power, and it's way too much. I am running under 50% to get good feedback without fighting it all the time. If you aren't getting enough from it, you can increase the gain as the ADC on the STM32F4 board is 3.3V out, and the input on the AASD is rated at 10V: scaling up to 100% was plenty but you can go higher if you need to. I suspect you won't need to.

Oh, and for what it's worth, I 3D printed the McLaren 650 GT3 wheel and I am using it with BlueHID for the buttons ... it has been awesome. All in with extra parts, taxes, etc I think I spent about $700 so it was very reasonable for a top-notch experience. Works great with AC, ACC, and AMS2 so far.

Good luck!

@Da3vr ,

Hi man,

How do you get FFB in AMS2. I'm trying for a week now. But no FFB.
I can setup the wheel and pedals perfectly, I can drive without a prob.
I change the FFB setup in game from "default" to "custom" etc....changed the gain.
But still no single twitch in the wheel.

Let me know

Ride on
Bakhol

I hear you. It was a pain to get working and I tried 3 separate times before I figured it out for my setup.

First make sure any axes you are not using are disabled in the VNM setup software. Next I had to choose legacy wheel, custom FFB. I had to turn left to somewhere near the stop but not all the way there, and turn BACK some amount to get the axis detected.

For calibration, do the wheel first if you can (before pedals or anything else). Turn left all the way to the stop, then turn it right all the way past zero to -90 degrees.

I also have problems with too many joysticks between my wheel on the stm32, separate pedals on arduino pro micro, Bluetooth wheel button controller, etc. I use Joystick Gremlin to manage all those devices and get them remapped to what I need in-game.