Showroom 4DOF motion simulator with Simukit's solution

As mentioned in my recent post I'm providing the community with the Axis, MaxMin, Game and Vibe profiles that I've tested and been using with my simulator build and games. You can use them as a reference and starter for your own project. Enjoy!

Hi, where to download code for Arduino?
4DOF motion simulator with Simukit's solution
Thanks!

Thanks!

Hello, I'm new to the forum (signed up back in 2017 but didn't follow up) and after years of sitting still while driving and flying I've made up my mind to go all out and get a motion rig.
I've been doing tons of research on line looking at the various affordable solutions and just today came across Simukit.
Like others I'm very interested in the Heave dimension, but also interested in yaw.
There is a video dated Nov 12, 2017 showing a comparison between the SK3 and the SK3.1 (which adds the yaw functions), however I didn't see the SK3.1 being offered on their website. I've got an email in asking about it, but if anyone has any information, please post.

Hello friend I wanted to ask you if it is not too much trouble I am thinking of transforming my 2dof into 4dof and I was already looking at most of all 4 dofs but I loved yours I wanted to know if you can not publish or pass me a couple of photos of the game engine in The interface Settings tab I want to know how I can put the second arduino board and how it would be configured in interface1 and interface2.

Hi everyone! It's been two whole years without giving updates about my simulator. In 2019 I added a HOTAS to the rig, the Thrustmaster Warthog which I'm very happy with. I've been using it with DCS's F18 Hornet and Warthog, FlightSim X and Elite Dangerous. I also use the stick as a handbrake for racing sims. The thrust controller base and switch knobs can also be used for advanced racing car controls like F1, FIA GT categories, etc. The HOTAS is secured to the rig with simple 90-degree steel brackets. Attached are a couple of pics to show the add-on.





After extensive use over the last three years, the front motor 1 started to develop heavy backlash that is becoming more noticeable over time. Back motors 2 and 3 are still tight and precise. No backlash. When I started to use my sim in 2017 the front motor was normally tight as well. I wonder if you guys ever found a way to repair/replace the worn-out internal part of these motors that is responsible for keeping the motions tight or at least mitigate the backlash play? It spoils the sim experience badly. I'm ready to dismantle the motor assembly in order to restore/replace the worn-out part. I don't want to buy a new one if I can avoid it.

Here is the Motor model



Thank you in advance for your feedback!

I had the usual backlash on the 3 motors when I received them which was almost unnoticeable but the front motor got worst over time. See the vid. The play is really bad. Does someone ever happen to repair one of their motors that had the same issue? I could use some advice on where to start. I also tried to modify weight bias towards the front of the simulator to mitigate the problem and it helps in some ways but it only puts a plaster over the problem without curing it. Tks!

Note: I like the idea of gas-operated car struts but my sim is already equipped with strong dampening springs that came with the kit.

Hello,

In a first time you can mount cranks on the opposite side and see if there is always backlash. In this situation you will use gears never used on the gearbox.

+1
The movement range is quite short so it's always the same teeth cog that are wearing.
By changing your crank orientation, you'll use undamaged teeth.

I don't like the preload (spring or gas strut) but it could be a solution for you: you'll still lacking precision and responsiveness BUT you will have less unpleasant shocks.

@Wanegain and @RacingMat Thanks for your suggestions! I will verify if the preload spring would not get in contact with the top of the motor's double-arm if I reverse the crank. Is there a possibility that the wearing could have happened inside the motor cylinder block itself and not in the gearbox? I remember seeing on Youtube a person who had the same problem a couple of years ago and he had to replace some kind of steel ring inside the motor assembly, but I can no longer find the video. Overtime the severe motions and contacts have chipped the steel from that part, thus leaving a gap responsible for the backlash. He replaced the part inside the motor and it was behaving like brand-new.

Sorry, I just realized that after flipping the cranks to the opposite side of the shaft I can just do a 180-degree rotation of the motor and set that position as the new starting point of the rotation in Simtools. This way the cranks will still be facing forward like they were before, but using new gear teeth. Brilliant! Thanks again for the suggestions. Will try over the w-e and report back.

Yes please give us a feedback if it solve your backlash. If not, I think the backlash is on the key on the shaft.

Will do @Wanegain. I plan to work on the mod over Easter holiday. Will report back next week.

Hi everyone, I finally had some time over the weekend to disassemble the front drive assembly. What I did was removing the screws that hold the cranks on the motor shaft, manually rotate the cranks 180 degrees, screw back the cranks, remove pot gear, perform a 180 degrees turn of the motor from Simtools, reinstall pot gear.
Unfortunately, the shaft is still showing the same level of backlash after the flip. I also feel it with a push of my hand. The problem might reside on the key of the shaft as @Wanegain suggested, or at the motor level. @Wanegain, if the problem is with the key, is that repairable and can you point me to the location of that component? Tks everyone for your support.

Keys are on the shaft, you need to remove circlips on it and it will slide. See if they are damaged