aarondc's nDOF rig

Do you have a link handy to a thread with your build described, eaorobbie?

And any idea on unloaded / max load current draw on that winch?

Cheers.

and what sort of duty cycle do these things have? I guess if you've been using them for 4 years it must be pretty good?

Just checked out the page on cheatengine - skimmed it only. Incroyable!

Building a model seems like a pretty friggin good idea: 3dof-arduino-sabertooth-4-x-24v-wheelchair-motors-t3425.html



Prototyping - I do that already with my software, and with another rig I am building, but the expense of even small servos seems exorbitant. Better than lashing out on real life motors and failing though, I guess...

I can't weld. Never tried. PVC construction looks promising though - is that strong enough to support a person and a monitor or 3?

I built a model using a Ardunio Uno R3 and 2 6v RC servos, custom code and serves very well as a model to test things with. Apart from a good show.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5d9hAXoO4o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlaCMZPgbh0

Yes PVC is strong enough to support a person
2dof-with-actuators-pvc-frame-t4553.html (do not ask if I can get more actuators, read the thread)
And with extra bracing it should be fine to support a monitor, maybe 3.
Dig further in this link http://insidesimracing.tv/forums/topic/ ... s-on-pg-9/

Already read that thread, bsft But more for the actuator info, will reread for the PVC info. Cheers.

Check out the insidesimracing.tv thread, even the originally designer/creator of the PVC frame was astounded at me putting the frame into motion and having no flex or creak. So the PVC is sturdy enough and easy to put together.
I have proved that . (thanks Rob for the PVC link).

Checked out the insideracing chick, definitely.

From the other forum: I recently bought a mint BMW E30 seat on the original sliders I'm hoping to use.

That would be a pretty penny!?

You know, even if I never finish a simulator rig, doing the research to build one will have been worth it just to discover the joy of building things with PVC pipe. That stuff is awesome.

About to head to Masters to buy a $52 mitre saw (and a bazillion pieces of PVC pipe and connectors) so I can cut PVC pipe quick and mostly accurate. Doing it with the hacksaw was getting old fast heheh.

A $52 saw? Why not.
Considering I used a half rusty $10 wood saw. And a handy block of wood to tap it together, oh, and I used a bit of dishwashing liquid on the connections, to make them easier to pull apart. After it was all set, then I drilled and screwed it together.
Pipe needs to be PN18, no less.

Seat sliders would be fine, but preferably not to move the seat as thats where the pivot point gets set. Maybe use rails on pedals to move back and forth.

That was someone else buying the BMW seat. I bought an office chair from Office Works for $129.



http://www.officeworks.com.au/retail/pr ... OWBATHSBLU

Ah so you didn't glue yours together I take it?

The pressure pipe at Masters is PN12 - are you saying that's not thick enough?

50mm pipe has nominal diameter of 60.4mm - so the wall thickness is ~5mm: http://www.masters.com.au/product/10026 ... 12-3metres

which sounds similar to what simul8r was describing with his pipes.

On the thread related to PVC, most guys use PN18 or rating 18 for wall thickness.
You could use PN12, but there is no guarantee of strength when related to a motion sim frame. On a static frame, yes, it should be fine.
For a motion sim frame, maybe if you mount the motors underneath, like near the knees or feet like I have done with the foot motor sim or other builds, then the motors would help stop flex of the frame as they are supporting it.
If you mount the motors at the shoulders connecting, you would have to do something to stop the flex of the frame. Hence using PN18.
Rob and I have built frames from PN18 and screwed together its more than sturdy enough.
We have both tried in vain to bend the completed frames for sturdiness and were stunned at how strong they are.
Even mine in motion use doesn't creak or flex.
If you have bought the PN12, then brace it up and give it a run, and prove us wrong.
We only suggest what we know works.

Didnt want to glue as it sets too quick, and both of us had to pull apart bits and adjust, like I plan to later. Screws were more than sturdy enough. I think I used 8 gauge 30mm. 3 or 4 screws per join.