AMC-AASD15A servo controller

Well, that's all I have... it's applicable at least to servos distributed by PT-ACTUATOR (fully shielded cables etc.)

Thanks
Thanos

G'day Thanos,

I am planing to use 10: 1 RV040 worm reduction gears with 60ST-M01930 600W servos.

I would prefer to use a prox switch for a home switch. What is the connection for this with your AASD-15A controller?

Thanks,

P.S.
Calcs;

0-3000 Motor RPM;
3000/60 = 50 Rotations Per Second.
10:1 Reduction Gearbox = 50/10 = 5 Rotations per Second. 5*4 = 20 90° quadrants per second.
Response at 3000 RPM = 90° / 0.05 Seconds FSD.
Desired response speed = 90°/ 1 Second FSD .
10/4:1/4 = 2.5 rotations for 90° desired rotation FSD.
2.5*60 = 150 RPM.
MOTOR RESPONSE = ± 150 RPM.

Actual turns;
10:1 10 input turns for 1 output turn.
Desired response position = 90° FSD.
10/4:1/4 = 2.5 rotations for 90° desired rotation FSD.
2500 pulses per rotation * 2.5 = 6250 pulses.
90° / 6250 pulsess = 69.4 pulses per degree.

Hi,

See this video for the connections:



Isn't 10:1 reduction too little? I mean the purpose of the reduction is to multiply the motor torque to allow handling the load of the application with appropriate lower speed than the 3000RPM that these servos are rated. What are you using these for? 6DOF Stewart type platform?

Thanks for the fast reply. The video explained everything perfectly. I should have no problems implementing them with your excellent controller for my g-seat. My current seat design is using worm geared 24VDC 200W motors will all the associated head aches controlling such motors. Switching over to AC servo motors with your controller will absolutely simplify design and construction, which is one of my main aims with designing the seat. It has to be easy to build but effective in operation just like the SFX-100.

I went for 10:1 as I am after high fidelity in angular movement for the g-seat flaps and was concerned about rotor inertia on exremely rapid rotation reversals (Power use and heat buildup). The design supports the body across supported hinges and roller bearings so the flaps are only nudging the body. Do I need to worry about rotor inertia? And what would you recommend for a gear ratio?

Thanks,

@Thanos !
I want to buy this board. do you sell? Or can I order link?
thanks

Hi, this comes with the AMC-AASD15A controller. Its not sold separately. Sorry.

@Thanos Hi man, I was looking at these motors on the 'ol amazon and was wondering if this would be compatible with your controller or is it only the AASD15A drivers? I was looking at those motors that you were using but shipping from china is over $100 per unit making it a bit out of my price range. Not that the motors I'm linking is any better really but at least I don't have to wait 2 months and I feel a little better then actually seeing all my money going to shipping costs.

Thanks for your time.

I can't see the link you shared...

Hmm, you can get them with free shipping, at least here in California... its kit Servo driver AASD15A + 90ST-M02430 servomotor.

www.amazon.com/Mophorn-2-4Nm-Driver-Controller-90ST-M02430/dp/B07W5NHWSW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa

Ok that actually was the one I was looking at. Just wanted to make sure that unit worked with you Amc controller. Would like to use it for flypt style actuator. I don’t want to deal with batteries and massive dc power supplies

Just a heads up for those replacing the motor cables on the 90st type servo motors.
My stock cables have a color coding change at the connectors.
The red wire from the motor changes to brown at the connector.(wire marker U) at the spade terminal
The yellow wire from the motor changes to black at the connector (wire marker W) at the spade terminal
The blue wire from the motor remains the same at the connector (wire marker V) at the spade terminal
The Yellow with Green tracer remains the same at the connector (wire marker E) at the spade terminal

Yes, this will work. To be sure perhaps contact the seller after placing order to verify its a AASD-15A servo drive that comes with the servomotor.

I just tried to reverse some of my Rotary Actuators and the function no longer works. I can change actuator "one's" direction but none of the others. Same with changing rotation angle limits. Beta 7 does not allow you to change actuator numbers.

I tested with Beta7 that has the rgb option

Looks like a firmware bug.
Beta6 works ok

The beta7 has changed the way you choose the actuators you want to modify. See this video:




Also, after loading the beta7 firmware, you need to force restore defaults, to reset some memory locations that are reassigned in the new firmware. You can restore defaults by holding the "Exit" button and pressing the reset button.

Thanks
Thanos

Thank you. Works fine now.
amazing what can be accomplished by following the directions

Since Ive upgraded to AC Servo drives, I'm now trying to resolve an interference/emi problem with my pimax 5k+
Im having the problem where as soon as I touch to plastic case of the headset, the tracking is lost and it greys out. If I have one drive powered on, it greys out but returns after some seconds, if I have all the drives powered, it never recovers tracking.

So Ive read about this problem elsewhere and the things I can tell you I have tried so far are :
-replaced the power lead with shielded cable all the way between the motor body and the driver.
-run earth wires on every metal component on the rig back to the power supply earth. checked with multimeter.
-looped the headset cable in ferrite cores at both ends, headset and at pc.
-using a power filter on the supply for the rig and computer.
-I have the headset cable hung up high and away from any other cables.
-I started with one base station, and now tried 2 which doesnt make a difference.
-Nothing else is powered up except for the servo drives and usb hubs.
-The tracking is lost no matter if Im sitting in the rig or standing outside next to it.
-Ive turned off every device in the shed so only the rig and pc are powered up.
and none of this has worked and Im out of ideas.

Hoping anyone here can throw some suggestions on what to try next?

Pictured below are all the things Ive tried.

If you have an Android smartphone you can install an app. Search for EMI Detector.
It will help detect what's radiating noise if that is still the problem.

'using a power filter on the supply for the rig and computer.' I run my servos off a separate power cct (20 amp) then my computer. If I plug them into the same cct, I can see interference lines often on the computer screen when the servos are active. Maybe try separate power line filters for computer and servos.

Interesting. I tried a few. Are they using just the magnetometer sensor?
I coundnt get any useful readings using these. There was no change in values when the drives were powered on and off. I have a feeling these apps dont pick up the EMI we need are hunting for.

I might have to order a cheap oscilloscope like the one Thanos showed us in his video on the shielded wire.
I havent used one before so I have a learning curve to go through on this.

I tried it out but I only have one filter at the moment. I'll try again soon when I get a second filter.

What was interesting is I tried the PC on a long power lead into the house on a separate circuit and the rig was on the shed circuit. It was actually worse and my monitor started tripping balls with red sparkles and blanking out. Its becoming a real mystery.
Anyway, I need to try again once I get a second filter.
Another thing to try is wraping each of the motor power cords in ferrite rings.

I think Ive only got one more weekend of troubleshooting left in me before i crack it and pack up the pimax.
Ive ordered the Reverb G2 so I might just go without VR until it arrives in December.

I believe it does detect the EMI radiating from these servos.
When you say the drives were powered on and off. Do you mean removal of the AC power mains voltage?
When the servos are holding position ecc. working against the weight of the rigs platform they are still emitting EMI.
I also see that all the mains run to a switch block on the right of the picture then must loop back to the left to the filter which appears to be an unshielded filter device..
These are the cheap filters I use and they seem to work very well. They are located right on the AASD drives, use only a few cm of unshielded wire, are directly grounded to the AASD's and are completely shielded themselves within their metal housings..

www.amazon.com/dp/B07XMGWF4F/ref=dp_prsubs_1

Mains power switch all metal shielded.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQO5S0G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shielded power cable.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HVYVNC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry for the way too long post. !