AMC1280USB Motion Simulator Controller

WOW - Good exchange, but technically "way over my head".

Thanos posted:

Hi Tom,
I think you were waiting for this...



I hope it's easy to follow, I had space only for two VFD inverters on the drawing, but I think it's easy to figure out the connections for the third VFD inverter. If you need connection diagram for the position sensors too, remind me what sensors you are using...

Thanks
Thanos
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Thanos, thank you for your diagram to hook up my AC platform. This is a lifesaver to me. I am using the #6127 Contactless Pots, 180 degrees.
I know how to hook those to your board.

1. I have been using a 12v transformer for the SMC3 Setup. Do I "have" to use a 24v or could it be a 15v - Just need to know this so I can order one.

2. My final issues are programming the board values and how to use the rotary know and buttons.............This would be the icing on the cake.

Thank you and have a blessed day.

Tom

Hey Guys lets not fight over this , this AMC unit it not at the plug n play level we had hoped for just yet but it will get there.. like most it would have been nice to have a user manual of some sort, to at least a guide that explains for the newbies what each function of the cards do and different connection option examples, but im sure Thanos will put this right , this does have the potential to be a big asset to the sim world , im guessing that as this is not the main source of income and other parts of life coming into play , progress has not been as we Newbies expect ... there will always be teething problems but in this day and age its to an extent how things are done as were an I want it now generation ( myself included ) so yes I admit I have not tried my new Bareones Kit yet but am watching all the feedback and and the updates, and will jump in when things stabilise , and a user guide is made available so I don't create Blue smoke at my 1st attempt ... My original AMC128usb controller was working fine and was happy with it so the belief is the new one will allow me to use simtools and expand my controller options... feedback is the key and letting the developer know te issues we see allows those best suited to put it right to put it right and in the end we all benefit ..

Oh Oh @Thanos one favour LOL with me being deaf er maybe you can add Closed cations to you tutorial video LOL I need these as im driving my ol lady made with the what did he just say questions .... Cheers Guys

I'm interested to see the answer myself.

Thanos stated on Dec 13, "Tom, if you like to hook up your platform, you could always check the older version manual that shows connections (and Sink outputs example) until the new one is finished. The old manual shows the same connections as on the new board, just missing a few connectivity options for 12-bit inputs (or jumper settings ) that exist on the new one." I assume hooking it up also means using it.

Now almost a month later you're showing connecting 24 volts when the old manual states, "Below you can see how you can setup the 6DOF ext v3 board to receive Sinking signals for VFD inverters that only Output signals and they need to be sink to Gnd. Also you have to provide the 15v separately for the analog speed stage (0-10v)."

Which is correct since your given advise contradicts each other @Thanos? This is why you need to put out a new and accurate manual now because you continue to give people incorrect and contradictory information. I know they would really appreciate it too so they can do it right the first time and not #@$% up something.

Thanos,
I understand your diagram, and thank you so much. But, as BlazinH has pointed out, I now "do not know" what power supply I need ???? / nor / how to program with the buttons-knob, and what values I need to start with. I have a 400# top platform that will kill me IF I don't understand what and how to program.

Thanos, BlazinH has been with us on the forum for years now and has a great reputation in electronics and mechanics.

Thanks BlazinH for watching out for me.

Blessings,
Tom

Hi Tom,

You will need a 24v PSU. First because the amplifiers need at least 14v to provide full range without skewing, second the LOW level signal has to be at least 13.5v to register into the sink inputs of GS1. Using 24v psu is prefered as the LOW level signal will be same at 24v and won't try to leak voltage to the 6DOF ext board.

The sink inputs work as:
HIGH LEVEL SIGNAL (ON) = 0v
LOW LEVEL SIGNAL (OFF) = 24v
If not connected it's floating potential.

You can use any 24v PSU, that is rated at least for 1A. Something like this would work great:
"110V/220V AC to DC 24V 1A 24W Switch Power Supply Driver,Power Transformer"



I sent you the controller already all setup for your inverters, if anything you may have to adjust the PID values a little bit to match the gear reduction you have on your motors.
Navigating the LCD menu is easy, rotate the encoder to scroll through the options and push in the encoder to enter to sub menu or save parameters.

Check out some of my videos that show how navigate the menu. Here is one for example:
After minute 11:30...


Thanks
Thanos

Not having time for this anymore, you still don't know what you are talking about. His VFD inverters will work as in the schematic i gave him. The generic one on the old manual works with most but not all vfd inverters with sink inputs.

Please stop confusing people.

I'm confusing people? You got to be kidding. Your the one who told him to hook it up using the old manual a month ago, not me. Its your old manual that says when using sink outputs like he is to use 15 volts, not me. This is the first we've heard of that you need to use 24 volts now with your latest extension board because you haven't provided a manual for it either. I'm done with you too because this is just getting ridiculous.

But before I go, you did say the diagram was OVER-SIMPLIFIED but with what you showed there would be no real advantage in using 16 bit Simtools input when everything else is only 12 bit at most as you know.

I know. That's the only reason I supported your efforts in the first place since nobody else really needs it. There are other and better options for them.

Guys please keep it polite, let's look forward how doing to solve the issues and let's stay constructive. Surely Thanos did a few things not as well as it could be but basically he's trying to give you good support. Thanks.

I think you are needed to help some people elsewhere with some SMC3...

Please stop talking if you don't know what are you talking about. You are getting aggressive and not thinking rational, while I'm trying to provide some support to people need it here, and you are taking up my 1 hour a day I have available for that, explaining to you what YOU don't need to know in first place. And on top of that you misleading people that the AMC1280USB is not working at all and they get the feeling that it will EXPLODE if they connect it to anything.

I perfectly explained that both connection diagrams are completely correct, and explained why his GS1 VFD inverter will work better using a 24v since he owns only a 12v PSU that is not enough to power even the amplifiers that need minimum 14v (hence the 15v requirement in old manual).

The resolution of the motion of a actuator is as good the sensor resolution it had coupled on it. If you couple a analog sensor with 10-bit resolution you will get 1024 positions.
If you couple a 16-bit resolution sensor you will get 65535 position for same actuator.
Don't confuse it with the 12-bit output which is speed indicator not absolute position!!!!

Have a good day.

@Thanos, I don't have a problem admitting I'm a noob when it comes to vfd's since I haven't any hands on experience with them. So I'm glad the hear that had the GS1 been used with only 15 volts it just wouldn't work and it wouldn't have done any damage.

But you keep missing or overlooking the real point which is a comprehensive and accurate new manual would clear up the confusion that is caused by not having it.

On Nov 29 Tom reminded you he had a GS1 yet on Dec13 you told him to use the old manual with no mention of needing 24 volts instead of 15.

You also told him you expected to have the new manual ready in a week or two. I know these things take time but you have missed two self given deadlines; by the end of the kickstarter campaign and by Dec 27. So hopefully its just about finished up now. At least you have been good about attempting to provide information on a need to know basis although it has not always been comprehensive in scope.

But I do know the difference between sensor resolution and speed resolution. A 16 bit sensor will be great, especially for slow moving flight. But since that's not ready yet and as others have stated, it would be much better to provide what is necessary for what is already available so it can be easily used and to have everything working as it should before you move on to the next shinny thing.

ps As I stated previously, I'm done unless I'm given a need to respond.

Honestly we pointed it out now, what happened here and there and what should not happen. I am very proud to see you guys discussing on such high level of knowledge, but we need going further and please let us come together here in harmony instead of flame wars (not really flame war but close to it ). I respect @BlazinH, since he is really ambitious and skilled in terms of bits and bytes (sometimes a little bit over heating ) on the other side you @Thanos should stay cool and give up your little dourness, something can always happen and it happened, nobody is perfect. Thank you guys for supporting us.

Well, finally, lost us80, as the controller was held in customs and sent it back because the seller @Thanos sent it without a price...

Yes, It came back but there was not such explanation on it, just a note that it was not claimed. The price was declared correctly on the customs form and even less that what is actually.


I'll send it again, just let me know what exactly they need from customs, I have shipped to all over the world same way, didn't had this issue.

Thanks
Thanos

Hi all, about customs; AU. customs must be OK as my 1280 had NO price and they let it through

Jerry.

If you mean the paper slip, no. I don't include this with kickstarter rewards, because its exactly that, a reward, not commercial item
But there is declared price on the packaging (customs form). The contents are declared as gift (gift=reward=the same), so it should have no duties due either.

Thanks
Thanos

@Thanos when will I receive my reward?

Hi, as I understand it, to import most things into AU, providing it has a value under 1000 AU dollars the is no custom charge.
However, as I have found in the past "customs" can be more than difficult, and hold up an item "just because they can", even if its a "gift"!!! nudge nudge wink wink!

Regards Jerry

Yes, customs are not the same in every country. Some countries are obviously more privileged. Here in USA they can pull aside a random tiny $10 declared value package for example, but let a huge crate with $3000 value servomotor actuator and drive inside pass with no fees.

If I'm not wrong, customs limits here in US is just $200.

Thanks
Thanos

the limit is $800us for purchased items and $100us for "gifts". assuming the shipped item isnt subject to quotas.
if the item is valued at more than $2000 it can become very troublesome as you may need a formal entry. avoid this if possible.

EDIT: this is for entry into USA, check with your government for customs requirements of your country.