Another Playseat 2DoF -> 3DoF

It looks like the higher RPM motors , (over 4000 rpm ) have a lot higher stall current. Hence the extra current needed.
But again, you have done a great job sorting the JRK out to run them, be it not flat out.

Yup, shunts and gauges are really cheap and easy to install. Very handy for telling what is going on with your motors.

Yes, they have a really high stall current, in my case 70A. Dropping the PID helps limit this.

I have ordered a 12" lazy susan and inline skate wheels for my 3dof/traction loss.



How important is it to add supporting wheels at the edges in the front? (to aid the lazy susan)
How many inline wheels do I need in the rear, is 4 enough?

Should I use same motor with a lever on it, or is a weaker motor good enough? (wiper motor)
Is chain better than levers for traction loss?

For the Pot I was actually thinking about putting it in the front / @ the lazy susan with a gear from my RC heli to give a higher turn feedback. This will allow me to run 2 motors at the rear if needed since the feedback then would be the actual position of the sim and not the motors position... just a tought...?

I've also been thinking about the possibility of using gyro's on the frame instead of pots on the motors, but I am not quite sure how Simtools would react to those inputs.. or, I am sure it would not work as of now, but in my head that would give better feedback as one could share well made profiles without the need for unique tuning as the motors then would move to get the frame in to a position, not dependent on design. And good helicopter RC gyro's are cheap and reliable... just a thought...

Yes, a linear pot connected between base and plateform is perfect

There's a Good reason we do what we do, the way we do it.


Why are you asking now how many wheels you need if you said you've ordered already ?

Not quite sure I understood what you are saying, am I doing it differently/worse?
But in general, if everyone just did "what everyone else does" , would we then have any innovation / development?
I was under the impression that a huge part of this forum was discussing different approaches to reach our goal. Often asking a question before starting the experiment is wise, someone might already have tried it and can advise for or against it, but I have not seen any one put the pot there yet.
Would we be able to use unlimited amount of MM's to control huge power motors is it were not for @Pit 's multiple-MM's experiment?
Would we know which turning point works the best if no one tries different ones?
Which mounting position is the best for the pot's, and which pot works best, and so on.

If you are referring to my question regarding the POT placement up at the front instead of on the motors lever, it is a theory in my head that this would give a better feedback to the controller, especially if I want to use chain drive instead of a lever.
Same goes for the out-of-the-box thinking regarding the gyro's on the frame, as this would give the controller the precise position of the frame instead of the motor. But it would require re-programming and are way beyond my skillset. But it would allow us to use the same profile for different simulators and actually get the same movement regardless of sim/motor design.

But no, I will probably not do either of the hypothesis questioned above, I will probably end up doing the same as everyone else and put the pot on the motor lever and use a pushrod from the motor the the bottom frame or a bicycle chain and sprocket.

Because I can order another set... where I live (Norway) the custom charges are crazy if you exceed a certain value ($40 inc. shipping), so usually I try to split the order to stay below that amount, even if it means paying shipping two times.. Custom handling fee is $25 + import fee if the $40 value is exceeded.
If the lazy susan bearing need support wheels I could order another set of 4 wheels, and have 2 in the front and 6 in the rear. But if it does not need the support and 4 is enough in the rear I do not need to order more..

It's been a long time since I last did anything on this SIM.
Not getting the JRK's to work how I wanted, I ordered MotoMonsters.
While waiting for them to arrive, we started renovating the house, built a garage with space on top to actually keep my SIM in it
I am doing all the work myself (including plumbing and electrics), so it takes some time when everything is done while working a regular 8-16 job. My dad is of good help!



Then we got a kid, built a crosscart, and my IRL drifting took the rest of my time and money.



Last year I crashed while doing a twin-drift (the leading car blew a tire and slammed on the brake with me 5 meters behind, going about a 140km/h - needless to say I did not manage to brake quickly enough).



Not prioritizing the real-life drift car have left me with time to get back into SIM racing.

I wanted a better wheel setup with Direct Drive and got a hold of Fanatec CSL-DD 8nm.



Plan was to swap my G25 on the Playseat to the new gear, but fitment was bad.
So I decided to rebuild my SIM instead specifically for the Fanatec and eventually get the motion back up and running.
I've got Oculus Quest 2 for VR and Asus 32" Ultrawide.
Had to strenghten the design of the SIM and build all new mounting:



This is the "top" plate.
Got it home and mounted it to the bottom frame which contains the SIM hardware:


Testing the new setup, loving it:



Next on the to-do list is to get the MotoMonsters I bought in 2016 up and running together with Arduino. Then I will add another DoF, the "slip".

I want to upgrade my position sensors as well when I am in the process.
Now I use standard pot meters (10k ohm).
I've been thinkering about getting Hall effekt sensors - but a thought just struck - what about TPS / Throttle position sensors from a car?
They are dirt cheap, lasts for years in extreme environment and readibly available and pretty precise..
Would something like this work together with Arduino?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334150477515

I've finally gotten around to do the change-over to Moto Monsters and Arduino.
I also changed to Hall effect POT's.
Surprisingly enough, I have more or less the same problems running one MM for each motor.
I am running two HP DPS-600PB in parallell with the load share pin connected. In theory, 575W/47A x2 - a whooping 1150W and 94A - so I've never even considered them to be the problem.
But running the 90ZYT-155-12 motors from Motion Control quick back and forth (or adding weight to the levers) I can hear the powersupply fans loosing RPM/PSU struggle.

I've added voltage monitoring and current sensing from one of the Moto Monsters using a Raspberry Pico.
A2: Current sense for Motor 1
A3: Current sense for Motor 2
and reading voltage from positive to motor using a diode and the appropriate resistors to read the voltage to the motor and thereby being able to calculate watt. (if anyone is interested I can share how I did it and the code)
I've added 60 readouts a second, then averaging the output, filtering the negative volt values (when motor is reversing). Highest readout so far:
----------------------------------------
RAW ADC CS1: 5633 | RAW ADC CS2: 4145
Motor Voltage (Avg, FWD only): 12.93V
Current Sense 1: 10.17A | Current Sense 2: 7.06A
Total Current (Avg): 17.23A
Total Power (Avg): 222.86W
----------------------------------------
But I need to confirm the actual scaling used by measuring with a Shunt. Will do this when it arrives.
I could also note that the voltage drops and spikes when reversing back and forth quickly.

Anyhow, it is not when I load up the motors hard that it trips, it is when going fast up/down (forward/reverse)
Which made me think that the powersupplies couldnt handle the quick changes.
I replaced the PSU with a 5000mah 70C 3S Lipo - and behold - now I could jank that thing around all I wanted.
So I'll be either:
Adding a 16V83F Super Farad Capacitor
Adding a 3S Lipo (they can handle up till 12.6v)
or just simply ditch the PSU all together and go for a car battery and charger...

I will start adding traction loss soon and for now I'll use a wiper motor for that, with the lazy susan bearing in from with the POT centered, reading the difference between top and bottom level of the SIM.

Question to all the users of the Motion Control 90ZYT-155-12 with 60:1 worm gearbox - do you experience any slack/play? I have quite the noticable play in the output shafts. Is there any way to tighten them up?

After still having some occurrences of the Moto monsters shutting down, where the Raspberry Pico logger reported low voltage values when rapid reversals, I changed PSU to a Dell PS-2142 1470W / 121A @ 12v.
That helped with the voltage drops, but they still went shut down.
So I've added another Moto monster pr. motor, and now I can drive them pretty hard, but with weight on the Sim I can actually trip the PSU so it goes in to error state.
Dropped PWmax to 200 and adding 5% smoothening in Simtools filter eliminated the problem.



I've added a Buttkicker/transducer: TST239-Silver running of Amp: TPA3116D2 Mono (45W @ 19.5V, 4Ω)
Upgraded to Pro license of Simtools to use Game Vibe.
After some initial learning curve I've got it dialed in to work, but I still need to tune quite a bit more before I feel that is it giving a good representation of real vibrations. But my buttkicker is rather large so it is kinda hard to not make it too strong.

Its at the point now where I am rather happy with the setup, my only real negative experience now is the amount of backlash in my worm drive gearboxes, it really destroys the immersiveness with the clicking and clacking on hard static jolts when changing directions rapidly - even with double bungee cords at both sides.
I feel the need to upgrade to linear actuators, and if starting down that rabbit hole I probably want to upgrade to a 6dof Stewart platform..