Showroom Blame73's 2DOF Seat Mover

What I haven't been able is, with Ard/MM, to get totally rid of the motors' noise. I played with all the parameters, rising and lowering PWMmin and according to this playing with Kd,i,p,s but the motors always made noise, in particular when holding the arm in position. This doesn't happen with JRKs, with which I can hardly hear the motors are on.

@Blame73 very interesting, a new viewpoint - you are right there is some noise while the motor does not move which is always present and annoying, no matter what I am doing (Fpid always 2). At the latest when I'm starting driving that issue is no issue more...perhaps @RufusDufus can tell something about that?

@Pit wrote an informative post about the noise made by not moving wiper motors.

You can find it here: http://www.xsimulator.net/community...-motors-while-not-moving-check-this-out.6697/

Thank you @Blame73 I forgot this thread as the beginning of all of that

I edited the OP to reflect the last stage of the rig with the following info and pics:

I edited this post so that, should anyone wanted to see the actual 'state of art' of my rig, wouldn't have to dig through the pages of the thread.

The ingredients for my recipe:

• PSU: HP DPS-600PB (12v, 47A, 575W)
• Controller: Currently I'm using
  • (2x) Pololu JRKs 12v12, but I can easily switch to
  • Arduino UNO R3/Monster Moto Shield.
• Universal joint
• Seat: Sparco Pro2000
• Pots: (2x) 10k 300° linear
• Mortors: (2x) Wiper Motors
• Switch
• Wheel: Logitech G27
• Joystick: Thrustmaster T.Flight HOTAS
• Monitor: AOC E2752vQ 27" + Samsung SyncMaster T220"
• Soundboard: M-Audio M-Tech
• Sound System: Philips 5.1
• Board: TM1638 + Arduino UNO
• Board: 7" or 10" Tablet
• Cam: PS3 Eye for FaceTrackin
• PC:
  • CPU: i5-4670k + Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO
  • MB: Gigabyte GA-H97-HD3
  • RAM: (2x) 8Gb HyperX Fury
  • HD: Kingston 120Gb SSD + 1Tb HD
  • GPU: Sapphire DualX R9 270x 2Gb
• Wires, wood, plastic...

Just a small update: I figured out how to run two TM1638 modules and I changed some code so that now I got displayed:
lap
gear
speed
fuel left
delta
and, of course, 16 leds for rpm

I'd be happy to share it @noorbeast , but I first have to ask for premission from the app's author, cause I modified it in order to run the second app that drives the second module.

That is just great, I ordered a TM1638 as well which is already on the way. Very good idea to use two of them.

I wanted to try some bass-shaker so I built myself a couple ones starting from an old PC speaker I had around.
The speaker ain't that big but I just wanted to try and see if it worked for then try with bigger ones.

I have to say the experiment was a surprise, I was no confident at all at the beginning.

Now a step by step of what I did:

• The speaker I started with (use a subwoofer or a woofer, NOT a tweeter!)

• I cut the cardboard, paying attention not to cut the wires too

• Pushed the 'bulb' (sorry, don't know the name in English...) so that now is no more convex, but concave

• Then I used a long nut finding the height till the upper holes and screwing it to a little rod (maybe I should use a more flexible one) and to the speaker

• Finally I filled the now-convex base with glue that I let harden overnight so that vibrations from the speaker are transmitted to the nut that, vibrating itself, transmits 'em to the base of the seat it will be fixed to

Since it was a really satisfying experiment I'll soon replicate it with bigger speakers, I think about 15cm ones

Seems like drilling an hole for better fixing the lever arm is not the best choice. The second motor's broken too:



Soldering that close to the motor won't be easy at all !

wow, what a mess. I hope you can solve it. Unbelievable that the chassis of the motor has been broken...

Since the author never answered me, I'm posting the changes I made in order to be able to use two TM1638 Modules. Should he complain I'd remove it.

Basically I just changed his app (acSLI) so that I could load it twice. I modified the code so that it now appears as a new app, acSLI2.

Then I edited the code for lighting (in the 16 leds mode) the first 8 leds on the left module and then continuing lighting the second 8 leds on the right module.
I also modified the button functions. On the first button - that I use on the left module - I have 'lap', 'gear' and 'speed', and on the second button - that I use on the right module - I have 'fuel left' and 'lap delta' (I got rid of millis on lap delta and moved it a step to the right in order to have a separator between the 'fuel delta').

To install the app just copy the acSLI2 folder in the apps\python folder (where you should already have the original acSLI) and enable it in AssettoCorsa. Then upload the 'TM1638_LeftModule.ino' and the 'TM1638_RightModule.ino' to your modules. REMEMBER TO MODIFY THE COM PORTS according to your pc!!

You have to set the leds to 16 leds mode, to do so press button 8 + button 1 to switch from 8 to 16 leds mode.
ALSO, I'm now using modules with just one color (cause the two colors modules I got are a bit too big), so, should leds not work, switch from green to red leds pushing button 8 + button 2.
(one of these days I'll modify the sequence for using the two colors: green leds for the first 12 leds and red leds for the others - 13 to 16)

I hope I've been clear enough. Enjoy the two modules.

PS: a tip: you can copy your user.cache file from acSLI to acSLI2 app

I did have some noise on my stationary motors, but with a cro found it was just noise on the feedback line, so just fitted a capacitor from the feedback line to ground - noise gone .

Since I'm working on the rig, moving the attach point from the base of the seat to a shoulder mount, I'd like to ask you guys a question: what kind of rod are you using (from the motor the the shoulder)?
I was thinking about a tie rod end (something like this: http://www.ebay.it/itm/RENAULT-SCEN...ERING-345MM-/400972958164?hash=item5d5bd9c9d4)
What do you suggest I use?

Something like this,

http://www.ebay.it/itm/CHINA-ATV-Qu...-links-Typ4-/361154667028?hash=item54167ee214

or these are what I use and Recommend them HIGHLY. First set of cheap "rod ends" failed real quick

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs...ight-hand-tie-rod-end-bearing/1559309095.html

I used some rose joints like these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M10-x1-2...Get-it-Fast-/231636022388?hash=item35ee953474
Then got some 10mm threaded rod and slid some aluminium tubing around the threaded rod. This will give it some more strength and rigidity and also a nice finish.
I haven't had any problems with that setup.

Blame73, this is the first time that I have read your thread, great job! Love how neat and tidy your build is, I am jealous

Thanks for suggestions @Nick Moxley @GIB SimRacing @noorbeast !
I had the same rose joints in my basket (http://www.ebay.it/itm/171899262204), I was going for the phs 10 (10mm diameter) too.

Thanks @Historiker, it's just an unpretending 2DOF I'm trying to improve little by little. At first I just wanted it to move