Showroom Budget 2DOF VR Flight Simulator rig - MSFS, SMC3, FlyPT Mover, Transducers

I can look it up (not at my computer now), but basically OVRMC just gets the motion info from your rig pose. It's pretty much automatic. You can add filter functions to it if you want to smooth it out. And you can use Gain functions to amplify or dampen it. But if your rig calculations are right, and those degrees that OVRMC is displaying are really what your rig is doing, then it should work right away. I use this as a virtual tracker for OXRMC - a motion compensation layer for WMR OpenXR. Works great.

Got to my PC. The exact settings for Roll are
GAIN(EMALP(VALUE;50.000);2.1)
and for Pitch are
GAIN(EMALP(VALUE;50.000);1.5)

That's what works well for me with OXRMC. Note that I'm not using OXRMP built-in filter, but using FlyPT filter instead... Default geometry with careful measurements in OXRMC didn't compensate motion enough for me, so I used GAIN to amplify motion until it visually matched. You will have to change this for your rig. I was just doing radical pitch and roll changes and looking at the cabin to the left of me, and to the dash to identify if motion is undercomensated or overcompensated. But first make sure your measures are correct for where your head is.

Thanks Ill give it a go..

Hi, I am facinated by what you have achieved. I am new here and to all this and I will start by using your example for my first setup. How did you do the "buttkicking"?
Fantastic build!!!

Many thanks for sharing the details of your rig. I'm starting out on my own rig and found your journey very inspiring.

Sure, I'm glad it's useful for other people. I'm so happy I took the plunge and built it - I haven't built anything comparable scale ever before and it was scary to take this on. But the process went extremely smoothly, everything basically worked as intended, with only minor adjustments needed here and there. Motor arms kept shearing small bolts I used to attach them to the shaft, so a friend helped me to make and weld the arms to the shaft. That was the only part that needed somebody else's help.

All design files, Blender design files, 3D-print STL files, build photos and part lists for my Motion VR Cockpit and all controllers are now available for FREE DOWNLOAD (optional donation) on my website. If you are looking into building a similar rig - feel free to use my designs as a starting point.

I think it's the wooden construction that makes your rig stand out from the crowd. Building in steel is difficult and slow if you don't have a properly equipped workshop regardless of your skills. I also live on a moderately remote island where getting stuff like metal stock shipped to can be frustrating and expensive. I was thinking about the Maytec system which looks great if you can design everything up front and then order everything you need, but prototyping and designing "on the fly" it would seem difficult for me as it would probably take weeks to get that extra length of profile or bracket shipped. It hadn't occurred to me to use wood until until I saw your rig. Easy and cheap to build (and rebuild?) with locally available stuff. I'm feeling quite fired up for it. I'm planning to get the electronic/software side of things working first before investing in the more expensive motors etc.

When I roughly calculated the cost of steel- it was just uncomfortably expensive for something that may not even work. And I have no welder or welding skills, and all the metalwork would be difficult. So I started thinking about the feasibility of wood construction. I did have to put some extra braces a couple of times, to limit the flex, but overall it's been working great. I think there's a positive side to the flexibility of the wood: metal frames' movement can be jarring when motors change directions rapidly. But due to natural flexibility of the wooden frame, the movement is softened just a tiny bit, and feels very natural as a result. There's more play in the system due to the wood and my DIY U-joint. So when I sit the platform can wobble a bit, but once you're in, and flying, you don't feel anything being loose - it just feels right, especially coupled with vibration feedback.

Could you elaborate a little on how you cured the jerky motor movement please? I seem to have the same issue. None of the SMC3 settings seem to help but I notice that even tiny amounts of I gain make it much worse. Been searching the forum for terms like 'jerky' and 'pulsating' but nothing coming coming up.

My website has my SMC3 config, if that helps you. I don't really have the jerkiness, beyond what it's doing to just keep the position as commanded. All the smoothness you need is done via low-pass filters in FlyPT Mover. In SMC I set it to be just as aggressive as needed to overcome the weight of the system.

Ah well perhaps I'll just not worry about it for now and wait until I progress beyond just testing with the SMC3. Thanks for the reply.

Man, i am so impressed by your nice work that i want to copy it because in the next couple of weeks i'll go for a new system with a 4090 in and MSFS ind VR. Originally i wanted to buy a complete DOF REALITY H2/H3 Rig but then i saw your solution and it was so easy to understand. I know that you spend many days and weeks to complete it but i think, i can handle it as well.

When choosing the engines, a high ratio is necessary, I assume so . ( 50:1 / 60:1 )
How would you rate the following motor for your rig.
I'm very unsure about the choice of motors because I haven't yet understood the effects of the specs.

All I can say is that mine work well. Here's the new listing for them I think: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/354052076387
They are 12V 75-80RPM 50:1 180W 50-60NM, so something comparable should work. Your specs are 24V, so you would need 24V power supply. I went with a cheap server PSU I could get free from a friend.

What worries me is that my motors list "50-60NM" torque, while yours are 0.2Nm. I'm not sure if it's a typo or a mistake in one of those two. I don't think yours are 300 times weaker, they don't look it. But I'd get to the bottom of this before ordering. Also, make sure you can get 24V PSU within your budget. 12V PSUs are cheap and readily available, like my HP 700W PSU which can be bought for $30 if I recall correctly.