Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

thank you for answering, I am very interested to use a direct drive with the my1020, I will use a 320mm steering wheel because I like the GT and stock cars, with that measure will not be too weak? now I use a t300rs and I notice it loose but I'm sure it does not reach even half of 7nm.
The step effect of the magnets is noticeable? with mmos can you give a minimum of constant force so that you do not notice the force of the magnet?
Could you help me make my wheel? by here or by email if you prefer

And with the 48v motor can I give the 50A to 12V as in its 36v motor? Would not I give more torque with the same amps? or your engine gives more than 50A?

what is your motor?

HA! Good spot, that is an uneducated statement. I was reading the graph all wrong. The MY1020 is a decent motor but requires a hefty power supply.
I must have been reading the wrong line in the performance graph or just had a complete brain fart. Either way ignore that statement

In this link you can find the chart: https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/unite-my1020-1000w-3000-rpm-48v-dc-motor.html

You can see the rpm line "N" slowly decreasing and by reading the bottom torque numbers you can imagine the motor getting to quite high torque by the time it gets to zero.
I've extended the graph here, The bottom line displays torque and the right hand side is the current draw.


As you can see, in theory the motor could get to around 17Nm of torque at stall @ 48V ~132 Amps.
However this graph is not 100% accurate, I've only lined things up by eye.
This kind of amperage would obliterate the winding inside though, and very quickly.
Running this motor at 12V would cut that current down quite a bit but still too high for the much thinner windings of a 48v motor to handle for extended periods of time.

The motor I am using is here:
https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/xyd-6d-450w-24v-2600-rpm-with-chain-sprocket-en.html
It actually has a full graph shown to begin with which helps.
You can see the blue "I" (current) goes up to about 80 amps as the pink "n" line goes down to 0 rpm along with torque heading towards 8.5Nm at stall.


I'm still doing testing on my unit and will report back when I am finished. I'm currently doing 12V tests just to make sure I don't fry anything.

Even these graphs may not be totally 100% accurate though, you could consider them as "typical" performance and real world values would be different.
These are cheap Chinese built motors.

I have a 12v and 82a power supply and a 4ah battery that can give a peak of 15-20a, I always use a battery in parallel so that the power source does not stop and regulate the voltage peaks.
the amps will not be a problem to feed a my1020 of 1000w, but I do not know if it will be better 36v or 48v the 36v will hold more amps but those amps will give less torque than the 48v, am I right?

an engine like yours should work at maximum voltage and amps to get the torque of a my1020 working at 1/3 or 1/4 of its maximum voltage, I think it is better option the my1020 and can reach more torque I think .

I have seen a video of a kart with the my1020 48v 1000w and shows the amps, in start passed 99a, the meter can not mark more, that engine gives 3,2nm to 26a so in 48v start it can reach more than 12nm, at 12v how many amps could you get? and those amps would be even if they are 12v will have the same torque? that is, 26a = 3.2nm?

I still do not know what engine to buy, I am motivated with the project but I must choose the engine well ..

It would also be very interesting for each one to start a post with their projects and thus see the progress and not all of them mixed, this would be very good for everyone and for the forum

I will try to sum up everything:

1. You cannot do anything about the cogging, but if you want the forces to be stronger than you current wheel I'm sure it will not be a problem. I only notice it when the simcar stands still and have very low forces on the wheel. I'm only drive open wheels car that have high down forces, that produce strong forces on the wheel.

2. The MY1020 (at least the one I have) needs about 0.8 Volts before it starts to "react". I set the value inside rfactor2, but if you use mmos you set the min force. (0.8 v/12 v = 0.66 -> 7%) Start with that and go down if it's starts oscillate.

3. A DD wheel operates in stall mode 99% of the time. That is the reason why you can produce the desired currents with a much lower voltage. When you want it to run at 3000 rpm than the motor is producing back EMF that works against the feeded voltage and you must have a much higher voltage.

4. You must consider the power losses that produce heat and can damage the motor in the end.
When the motor is in stall, all the power are heating inside the motor because the axle doesn't rotate. simplified, output Power = torque * movement.
I take my build as an example:

MY1020 1000w, efficiency = 0.81. That means that the motor should handle 200w of power loss inside it.

So I aimed at keeping my average power close to 200w, and put some fan for cooling also. Before I mounted a fan the motor was burning hot after about 30 minutes of 200w average power. My max power is 12 v * 85 A = 1020w, and depending of what track, the average output goes between 15 - 25 %.

Hopefully this can make you understand why you don't need the higher voltage...

Reminder:
The torque is proportional to the current, no matter what the voltage is!!!

You might want to be careful there
Your efficiency near stall is close to 0% even running at 15 - 25% you could only hope for ~40 - 50% efficiency. Not a big issue but you'll be dumping more power than you are expecting.

thanks for the information, you recommend me 48v? Will it hold the heat well by having the finest winding? The main question I have is whether to use 36v like you or 48v.
For me, is this the plate I should use?

http://s.aliexpress.com/73QRnmEn?fromSns=Copy
Or
http://s.aliexpress.com/vIJJJJba?fromSns=Copy

And this the encoder that I would use can
http://s.aliexpress.com/Fj2aE3M7?fromSns=Copy
I put it directly to the shaft ?, I should drill the casing and pass an M6 thread to be able to join the encoder with a flexible coupling.

And the wiring to the stm32 where can I find it?

STM Card:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808638734/32808638734.html?shortkey=vIJJJJba&addresstype=600

Encoder (2500PR):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/E6B...518.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dcnJpU8

The wiring are all over the internet. Remember the pullup resistors for the encoder. You must feed it with 5 volt, but signal level on the Discovery is 3.3 Volt, so the pullups goes to 3.3 v. I know there are some issues with the calibration routine and z signal, you may need to invert it. I have written my own software only for rfactor2 (and now also for rfactor1) so I actually don't use the standard ffb API. What sim are you using?

As i said before, I would go for the MY1020 1000w 48VDC with the risk of getting little less torque att 12 volts, but have less heating.
With that motor you get 3.2 Nm with 26.7 A, with the 36 VDC you need 35.6 A to get the same torque. At 6.4 Nm there is 17.8 A differens. That means more then 200w less in peak power (remember all the power goes to heat in this application) and about 40 - 50 w less power in average. Yes, it has a smaller winding, but you will use less current also, so my guidelines is the same.

Corsican assetto game, but I want to use mmos and not complicate if I use another game.
With the 48v motor and good cooling how many amps could you use? Could it reach 8nm or more?
The wiring I have searched several times and I can not find it, I should not know how to look for it, the resistance I do not know very well how to do it, to use 3 or 4 ibt2 in parallel you need to do something with the Discovery? Did I get the 5v from the Discovery?

3.2 Nm @ 26.7 A = 8.34 A/Nm. So if you want 8 Nm, 8 x 8.34 = 66.72 A. You need 3 IBT2 in parallell, because they start cut of at about 30 A.
But I don't think 12 VDC will be enough to produce this current. But as I have stated several times before, consider a lower torque and a less complicated solution with less heat. If you aim for 6.4 Nm, you can go with 48 VDC motor and 12 VDC and only 2 IBT2.

Wiring example:

https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-ffb-steering-wheel-mmosffb-in-progress.7769/page-4

It's not at IBT-2, but the principle is the same. You should have some electronic knowledge to finish a project like this. There will always be some troubleshooting on the way...

I pretty sure you have 5 volt on the discovery from the USB

I have no idea of how much a output of the Discovery can feed, you may need some buffer ic... I remember some discussion about this in this thread...

I have limited knowledge of electronics, although I have been able to do a 3dof as well.
Can I connect the motor directly to the source and see how much torque it is able to get? That would be the maximum that could give even better be a little below.
The part of the electrical connections is what scares me most, I do not see any tutorial with the ibt2 and that explains how to do everything without problems.

How do you connect the steering wheel to the axle?

You could connect the 12 VDC directly to the motor and measure the torque, but be aware, it's kind of strong forces. You need to fix it well.
I friend of mine that have mechanical workshop helped me with a metallic plate. I had already done a 3D model on file but never ordered it. (Do not own a 3D printer). That's a backside with the MY1020. The axle is very thin.

If the 10mm shaft is very thin, do you think it can be folded if someone leans on the steering wheel?

I see no risk for that, but the thin axle makes it a little harder to fasten something to it.

I have thought to use the pinion that brings and weld in it a coupling for the steering wheel. By the way are you using mmos? is not going to do a little connection tutorial for the Discovery and the ibt2? It would be very good and I would appreciate it very much

I am using the MMOS and IBT2.

IBT2 can provide a max voltage of 27V with a current of about 43A.
MMOS requires added circuitry to send signals to multiple H bridges. (clock fan out buffer) This is because the output drive signal is not that strong. This is easy to do however.

If you get serious about using this combination I can draw up a connection schematic for you.

Thank you, I will look for the engine in the EU to not pay customs, when I have already discussed this scheme and I need to order from AliExpress

I have already found an engine in Germany to not pay customs, can you help me in the scheme? I would need to know what components I have to ask

This looks great, I found it on YouTube, they had already put a video of him in this post, I do not know if it is a 36v or 48v engine, it uses only 50A of power and it looks like it moves your hands in some moments, look really good!