Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

This is the MY1020 using 12V and the IBT_2. Well well well... Isn't that a coincidence? Exactly what you are after haha!

I am working on the connection picture now.


PS. OMG he is wearing Crocs......

thanks for working on the scheme, if the video uses ibt2 but a my1020 of 500w and it feels very good, you move your hands as in a osw on strong supports, with the 1000w I do not know if it could be more powerful, that is 36v 500w and I want to buy the 48v 1000w, I have the doubt if it is better than the 36v, I do not see anyone with the 48v and I'm afraid to be the first and not go well ...

In Theory, he could get 4.58 Nm if the IBT2 can deliver 43 A, but my experience is that the IBT2 cuts off much earlier. You actually get a little more Nm/A with that 500w motor, but why I went for the 1000w was that it should handle more power loss(heat), 200w vs 100w.
Maybe the 500w 48 VDC is the best choice, you get 7,09 Nm from 50A, but than you should try to keep the average ffb output below 17% to not overheat.

I bought the 48v and 1000w, we will see what pair I can get with 12v

Seems like he wasn't satisfied from the beginning:



He obviously upgraded with more current (2 x IBT2) and mounted a fan on the movie
you found. He also went from a Arduino based solution to mmos.

Here is a link to his build http://www.drivingitalia.net/index....olante-direct-drive-con-arduino-stm32/&page=1

As Promised:
Download the attachment to view it in better detail.

The added circuit is a non inverting buffer used to strengthen the PWM signal as the output drive of the STM32F is insufficient to split to 2 IBT_2 units.
The unit is this: http://au.element14.com/texas-instr...fer-dip-14/dp/2119506?st=non inverting buffer
Alternately, you can use a clock fan-out buffer however I have only seen these come in surface mount packages and thus harder to DIY connections.
The way I have connected the buffer is to have the main PWM output from the STM32F connected the one of the buffer inputs. This is then fed to 2 more buffer inputs,
splitting the signal to feed both of the IBT_2 drivers. When setting up the MMos utility you will need to select the "H-Bridge" output mode for this to work correctly.

All of the "enable" pins are connected to 5v to keep them active.

One suggestion is to also buy a small 5v supply to power the IBT_2 and Buffer Circuit as again, I doubt the ability of the STM32F 5v channel to power things properly as I have had issues in the past.

As in the picture, it is better to connect 12V to the encoder as the 5V from the STM32F cannot drive the encoder properly.
Depending on what encoder you order you may need pull-up resistors on the output of the encoder channels.
You do not necessarily need to have an "home/Z/index" channel but the A/B channels are a must.

For the buttons, you can pick whichever buttons for whatever function. What I have drawn is just an example.
The buttons are active low, which means you just connect the pin to ground to activate the button. No voltage input required.
You would do a wheel setup in whatever game you are playing and assign button functions.

For the pedals and gear shifter, you can utilize pedals and shifters from Logitech units if you wish and re wire them to the STM32 or build your own.
If you wish to re wire logitech pedals/shifters I can help there aswel.

Thank you so much great work friend!
Just a doubt, to connect 3 ibt2 how would it be done? and the pins that are joined in black must be joined with cables or simply not use?
Edit. Can I use this buffer? Is it connected the same?
https://www.digikey.es/product-detail/es/texas-instruments/SN74LS244N/296-1653-5-ND/277299
my power supply has output of 5v 2a, can I feed the stm32 and ibt2 with it?

This is the enconder that I am going to use, I have to put the resistance?
E6B2CWZ6C Omron
http://s.aliexpress.com/BzAjUZJJ?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard

If you want to connect a third IBT_2 I'll have to modify the connection diagram. A second buffer may be needed but I think these should have enough drive to split the PWM signal.
Use this buffer: https://www.digikey.es/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/SN7407N/296-1436-5-ND/277082
The black lines are legs of the buffer that must be connected together.

The 5V supply would only need to power the IBT_2 and the Buffer chip. STM32F gets power from the USB connections. Both USB cables must be plugged in.
Yes that 5v supply would be more than sufficient.

That encoder will need pull up resistors. I can also add this to the diagram.

of a leg of the buffer can not be fed two ibt2? or use two buffer? if you can add that to the diagram and the resistance of the encoder would be great, I am very grateful for your time and work

The pullup resistors can be connected in two different ways. Either internal to the encoder as in the picture to the top right OR as shown in the diagram under the encoder. Pick one or the other.
The diagram now also shows a separate 5v supply.

I bought an osw encoder of 10000ppr, they give it to me at the end of the month because the man is on vacation, those encoders do not have to do anything, no? what I do not know how to connect and what voltage they need, I hope I was not wrong

I got the 48v 1000w motor but it says it's 32A, should not it be 26.7A?

I have done a force test at 12v 82a and given 10NM, I can not measure the amps but if 3,2a are 26,7a I have used all the amps of the power supply.
That's a stupid thing for a 48v engine, is not it? I will have to lower my strength in MMOS if I do not want to use so many amps? With 60A it would give more than 7nm that should be enough for a 32cm wheel

It's not stupid at all. That's the reason why I tried to convince you before to choose a motor with high voltage. It has more winding and give you more Nm/A, and because you run the motor in "stall" mode all the time, it doesn't produce any back EMF. To make you understand EMF: When the motor starts to rotate, it's also a alternator that produces voltage that work against your input voltage.

When you lower the ffb, try leave it at 100% in mmos (If your supply can support it), and lower it in the game to suite your demands. Otherwise, you surely will have "clipping" problem.

How did you measure the torque?
My torque test:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NfrNbpCJKvk2RQFX7

I would rarely trust the labels on these types of motor (cheap motors). You only really use them as a ballpark figure of the motors characteristics.

I was surprised by the capacity of the motor, the only thing that in seconds of test the cable has already been heated, in the brushes the cables are not welded with tin, they seem like glued, it must be a special welding, but I do not know if I will need to add new cables , there is a lot of heat there.
the test realece with a kitchen scale and a tube of a meter, gave a little more than 1000gr, very happy I was not expecting so much, to the power supply I will put two capacitors of 22000uf to help it and not to put on protection.
The 48v motor will hold 80A? In theory it will never go over 1000w which is what gives the power supply, but they are 1000w to 12v and 80A and I do not know if it will warm the engine more than 48v and 27a which is its normal work.

@Alexey @danove_b
Could you help me with the 10000ppr osw encoder I bought?
According to Alexey's scheme the cables are used two power cables and A and B, the osw encoder has many more cables, a + a- b + b- ... I put a photo of the post of the osw of this forum, in theory to - b- are the opposite of a + b +, should only use a + and b + and should it work? the u v w with outputs for servomotors I think, they would not have any function for us, but I'm not sure how to work or what cables are each, this is complicated.
The encoder is given to me at the end of the month because the seller is on vacation, I want to know if it could be used or I will have to tell him that I do not keep it and buy a Chinese 2500ppr ...

I thought you were buying the encoder posted in this link that you sent. http://s.aliexpress.com/BzAjUZJJ?fromSns=Copy
I haven't used those encoders but in theory you should just be able to use the a+ and b + channels.
If you have the part number of the encoder I'd be able make sure this is correct as some encoders can use different voltage level outputs.

I was going to use that Chinese encoder, but I found the 10,000ppr for 30 €, I still do not have it because the honbre is on vacation, it is the nornal of 10000ppr that use the small mige engines, I will look for an equal one on the internet and show it to him, in theory it is alinenta to 5V, that I do not think it is a problem, but with so many outputs I do not know if it will go well, so if you have to put up a resistance, it is complicated but I hope to see the light before August 30 that the encoder .
The Italian forum man has bought one too, I will see his progress.

I tried to explain the power loss problem for you before, but I take it again:
The motor is a 1000w with a power factor of 0.81. That means that 81% of the the power goes to actually work on the axle. The rest (190w) is power losses (heat) inside the motor. So in theory, the motor should be able to "survive" 190w power loss continuously. But when the motor is in stall, all the power becomes power losses inside the motor. (Simplified output power = Torque * rotation speed) In my case I record the output signal for the motor, and try to get the average under 25% (If it is more I just have to turn down the ffb). That means that the average power loss is <250w.