Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

I haven't worked on my project for quite a while and I've forgotten how the motor went back together. Can someone please send a picture or something. Also I have this metal ring that fell out when I was trying to reassemble the motor but idk where it belongs.

the metal ring/ washer goes on the end of the bearing. the motor brushes need to be refitted and the end plate reassembled

Thanks for your response. Should the ring be all bent as it is or should it be flat? I intentionally put the brushes at those points so it will be easier to reassemble. When I have it around the bearing I will release the brushes. Is that a good plan or would something end up being messed up that way?

Yes, it should be bent. How you're doing it is exactly how i did it....

Just claifying, the washer goes between the bearing and the end plate... It's effectively a spring to control end float in the shaft.

Also make sure you have not rotated the end plates in relation to the housing/magnets as this will affect timing of the motor. If it's too far out then it will have more force in one direction than the other.

Thanks for your response. Do you know if there is a orientation for the washer? Should I glue it to the end plate? I think I might have screwed up as I have no idea what orientation the endplate was in when I took it off. I've also rotated the windings quite a bit randomly. Do you know how I can line it up again?

The washer is fine, it will just sit in there. There is no issue for the winding, just orientation of the end plates to the main housing. If you have not (re)moved the front one, then just line up the back with the front. On mine, there are also a notch in the end plates to make sure they are aligned.

Thank you. I never noticed that notch before. When you said to align it with the front part a memory popped into my head of me spinning the front part on the shaft lol. How did you go about attaching the encoder? I might have asked on here before but I just want to get as many ideas as possible.

I drilled and tapped the end of the shaft with a 5mm thread, then just used a cut off half-thread 5mm bolt (threadlocked in) to give me something to attach to. The coupling between my motor and encoder is just some rubber fuel hose. I followed the technique of someone else here - Completely cover the whole armature/commutator in painters tape to keep out all of the metal shavings.

Then:
Best: Use a Lathe to drill/tap the shaft
Second Best: Use a drill press - Insert the end of the shaft in the chuck then use a vice to hold the other end (so its nice and vertical), then unchuck it, install drill and drill out the shaft, then chuck the tap and thread by manually moving chuck,so it's still perfect angle.
Worst, not recommended: Just use a hand drill and try to be as accurate as you can.

I strongly recommend against not covering it up as metal shavings will go all over it.

For getting the ends matched up to the housing, it's probably a fairly safe bet to just get the bolts evenly spaced between the magnets. Mine appears to be at the 'top' of the motor, i.e exactly perpendicular to the mount.

Thanks for your reply. I will definitely make sure to cover it. I don't have access to a lathe, so I will have to go with the second best option. Does the chuck fit around the bearing of the motor? On my motor there is no shaft on the back after the bearing. That seems like a great idea to keep it all aligned. Would I need a high quality tap set to thread the shaft or will a cheap one do the trick? Instead of tapping it could I just use the drill press at that point to forcefully insert a screw or would that lead to issues? Qlittles suggested forcefully inserting the screw, I was wondering if it can be done with the drill press to maintain maximum alignment.

For getting the ends matched up to the housing, I found some pictures online of how the logo on the front plate is supposed to be relative to the rest of the motor, so I think I could just set the front plate to the correct position and then use the notch to align the back plate.

I used option one as I have a lathe but even sitting the front shaft through the bed of the drill press (assuming you're all square) and resting on the front bearing will probably be enough. The bit of shaft you add is only going to be tiny anyway so a little bit of runout is not going to hurt too much.

From there, you can either tap it (and yes, splurge the $10 on a good tap because if it breaks off in there you've screwed an expensive motor) or you could just use some straight steel pin or whatever and loctite it in. The problem you might have is tolerances between the hole you drill and whatever you put in it.

As for getting the motor back together - Post a pic of the inside of the housing - By the looks of it, most of the motors have the magnets aligned so that the bolts secure parallel to the mount. I might be making you worry about nothing....

Thanks for your reply. I'll just do my best to line it up on the drill press.

I'll probably end up just putting a machine screw into the hole once I drill it. I've never tapped anything before and I don't want to mess up.

I actually went ahead and put the motor back together earlier today. It's good you mentioned the alignment because there are two different ways it can be screwed together and I could have put it together the wrong way and thought nothing of it. The notches also helped me align the plates so I could fit the screw from end to end.

Hi all, I see a lot are giving the MY1020 a go. Trying to build one now.
I've got a working Arduino Leonardo setup with a hand made shaft connection at the front for connecting the steeringwheel.
Guess what. The my1020 completely ripped it to shreds.

What dit you guys use / build to connect the steering wheel to the shaft?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the setup with a Leonardo? I saw one for the stm earlier on this thread and it had a separate 5v power supply. Do I need that? I will be running 3 ibt_2s.

Also for the resistors for the encoder, I have 2 1k ohm 1/4w resistors with 1% tolerance. I can just run 2 of those in series instead of the 2k ohm 1/2w resistor right? Pretty sure about this, just want to double check.

Head over to my build thread here to see how I did it....

So far it has held up fine but I did find that the gear is not perfectly tight on the flat edges of the motor shaft (or wore) - I ended up using Loctite 680 Retaining Compund https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/au/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_680.html around the gear, washer and securing nut to lock it in. This does mean however that if i ever want to take it off, its going to be a complete pain as you have to use heat.

If you're running the leonardo version, it should all just connect like in this vid - There is no need for external 5v, just use the normal 5v pins. As for the pullup, you can do what you wanted, you might even get away with just 1k pullups depending on how well the encoder can ground the pin itself. Check the datasheet for your encoder as to the 'sink current' on the pins or just test it and see. You definitely don't need 1/2w resistors either!

If you want to use 3 X IBT drivers, just wire them in parallel and run at 5v, you should have no problems. If you change to the STM32 version though, you will need to run them at 3v with an external regulator.

Thanks for your reply. I watched a couple of his videos and made this diagram for my setup.

These are the specs for the encoder I have: https://www.ia.omron.com/product/item/2450/. What am I looking for to calculate what resistors I can use?

Awesome build elnino and thread, thanks for the response.

That should all work perfectly (other than the fact you have the power input the the modules with the wrong polarity). With 1k resistors, it's 5ma holding the pin high, the encoder is good for 35ma so should be able to pull the pin low fine at 1k.

Hi.
I want to let you know that I only have words of praise for the work they have done.

I have obtained all the components in my country and at a price lower than a g29 so I am doing good handwriting so that my wife will let me buy them.

I want to ask you some questions.
1) If we change the ibt-2 and my1020 for a DMA860E and an 8Nm NEMA34, shouldn't it be the same?

the output of the arduino leonardo is PWM and the DMA860E has a PWM signal as input, wouldn't the change be direct without the need to implement another electronics?

Then with the tests it would be necessary to configure the DMA860E to place the necessary micro-steps and thus not notice the steps of the motor when using it. I understand that stepper motors are not used because "steps" are noticeable.

2) the other query is: are the stepper motors not used for a software configuration issue?

3) In no post do they talk about compatible games. I use Rfactor 1, Assetto corsa, assetto corsa competizione, iracing, motorist 2, raceroom. They are the current simulators to which I would like to give compatibility. Is all this DD DC DIY system compatible with those simulators or only with Rfactor2 that name it all the time?

4) Do you have to install a plugin in the respective games for the DD DC DIY to work?

By using a stepper motor I can buy one with a built-in encoder or I can adapt one, that does not vary in the scheme.

excuse my english, blame it on google translator

Thank you for your responses and for this project.
Nestor

Stepper motors are designed for positional movement, not static Force.

The DMA860E only has Step and direction interface, not PWM (it just mentions that you can use input frequencies up to 200khz) so even if you did go down this path, it is not going to be a simple swap.
Regardless of your microstepping, you will still feel a 'clunk' for every time you push it out of a step. They're just not designed for this application.

You may have some luck with a servo based stepper, like those from Servida but these are $$$$

The info is around but not all in one place. If i recall, with these DIY ones the FFB will not work with rfactor1 and i think there was a limitation in rfactor2. Most other recent games will work fine natively but I don't have personal experience with anything other than LFS and iRacing which work fine.