Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

Wait, quick question. You said I should be aiming for roughly 60-70A of amps, and that by lowering the output I could, in turn, lower the voltage and the current to safer levels. Shouldn't there be a better number(Higher than 50%), one that I can find myself of course, where the voltages are above the 6 volts you mentioned, and in turn, giving me more than 30-35 Amps, hopefully around 60-70A? You also mentioned torque is always proportional to the current, isn't this good since it'll also lower heat while giving me the right amount of torque? Or am I still giving myself a disadvantage with this beast of a 12 volt PSU by limiting its voltage lower than 12 volts?

The 50% was just an example, you can put it on what ever you like. What i meant was that you can control the max current/max torque with it.

Can I use a OMRON E6B2-CWZ6C with 1000P/R instead of 2500P/R like you did? I can't seem to afford the 2500 one, there was a cheap listing but the seller was unresponsive.

Here's a photo:

Of course you can, that's up to you. It will give you a resolution of 0,36°.

Hey guys I need some help. I lost all my settings in MMOS so I was in there playing with stuff. I bumped the DFU mode button and my wheel went crazy spinning and smelled a bit like burned electrical. I unplugged power as soon as I could. But now every time I plug the wheel in it instantly starts rapidly spinning. I tried resetting everything and can not fix this. Did I fry something or what? Thanks

(My1020 with stm32f407)

what motor driver do you use ?

I use 3 BTS7960's. I took it all apart and ran one driver at a time. One seemed to be permanently feeding power to the motor. Another was sending horible noises to the motor and the third one sends good power for the one direction and weak power to the other. I think I will replace all 3.

For God sakes don't press the DFU mode!!!

Hey guys, I've been reading lots of recomendations for MY1020 and I found an used one for sale on my area.
Is it possible to test the motor with direct power from a PC power supply? I have a beefy corsair 850W which could in theory provide 70A at 12v.
Or could that damage the motor or PSU?

yes, that's fine, just make sure the motor is secure before you do. start-up torque will make it do a barrel roll.

Hey I read you can use STM32 or Arduino Leonardo.
Would an arduino uno work?
Is there any advantage for the stm32? Its roughly double the price, but its not so much money anyway. If Uno is not suitable, which should I get?

Uno will not work, nor would I use a leonardo. Stick with EMC firmware and if you're using a brushed DC motor, you can use an STM32F401 which is cheaper than both https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...exp_id=087a41a1-dd67-45e7-888b-c8543c707e13-1

Thanks! But why distinction on the type of DC motor? I intend to use a my1016 or some other chinese 180w motor havent decided yet.
Is there any disadvantage with STM32F401 compared to the STM32F407 that most use? Like software compatibility ?
Also, do I need a programmer/flasher for the STM32F401?

Distinction because if you were using bldc or something, the extra power of the 407 is of use but otherwise 401 is fine. Pesonally, I use a diymore stm32f407vgt6 board that i got for about $12 but I use brushed dc with 3xbts drivers so I dont need it, its just what I had. Other than that, there is no real difference. You will need a ftdi serial or stlink programmer for it. both very cheap.

So are you saying that with these parts right here plus an Ibt-2 that I can build a DD wheel

Almost - The Arduino UNO will not work, I would personally recommend the STM32 board and EMC firmware for the wheel as it is in active development still (Search EMC Developments, Ebolz Maggy on FB). You have to pay a few $ for it but it's well worth it and the STM32 board will likely be cheaper than an Arduino Leonardo to run the old crappy outdated firmware on.

- You may find you need 2 of the IBT-2 h bridges to handle the current (Run in parallel)
- The PPR on that encoder might not be fine enough but will be ok to start you off.

Edit - On closer inspection, is that green thing an encoder? Looks more like a small brushless motor....

Can you give me a wiring diagram and what provides the torque?

Ok, looking closer - The green thing is not an encoder, it's just a 360 degree Hall sensor. That will not work.
You need a rotary encoder

So unfortunately, the only parts you have there you can use is the wheel and the motor.

If you buy the EMC firmware, it comes with full wiring diagrams but it is STM32 only, not arduino. No affiliation, I have just tried all of them and the EMC firmware is lightyears ahead of anything else out there.

Shopping list:
Encoder
IBT-2
STM32 (F401C) and probably a programmer
Power Supply (I recommend HP Server power supplies - Cheap, quiet and easy to mod)
EMC Firmware (By donation, I think the minimum is 10 Euro)

Ok thank you so you never mentioned what creates the torque though

Specifically - The IBT-2 is a H Bridge which is just a module to drive a DC motor forwards and backwards (and in this case) with a PWM and direction signal. The power supply is connected to the IBT-2 and so is the motor. The controller then sends a PWM/FFB signal to the IBT-2 to *try* to turn the motor but you have your hands on it so it does not turn, but will be felt as torque.

What I'm asking is there's no gearing or anything the motor provides all the torque it's just motor to the wheel nothing in between?