Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

I tested a leonardo and a STM back to back and the performance was identical IIRC - the leonardo did its job perfectly

With what firmware?

EMC developer told me that Leonardo is too slow for usable FFB. I got a copy leonardo, so that's probably adding more to the problem.
I'm deciding to get an stm32 for EMC pro; Which microcontroller should I get?

you can try a Thanos TDD board

I have a dc motor

If you are using the BTS7960/IBT_2 H bridge drivers, I would recommend getting the STM32F407 board over the cheaper STM32F401. The reason for this is that the 401 code does not (seem) to support PWM+2DIR, just PWM+DIR that the 407 code does support.

Although not required, it is MUCH better over the 2PWM mode which is recommended by EMC.

The reason is, in 2PWM mode (with the BTS7960) it ties the EN line high which puts a short on the motor when not being driven. Doesn't sound like much but when using it, the wheel feels dull and laggy.

With PWM+2DIR, you hook the PWM to the EN pins (both shorted together) and DIR goes to each PWM pin. It sounds weird and wrong but it's definitely the better option.

As for the actual board to use - Any generic one is fine. I am currently using the DIYMORE board but i don't think it's still available Edit: It is

This one is ok but from memory, if you want to use the NRF module (wireless buttons), you have to remove a tiny pulldown resistor on the board that goes to an LED.

These should work

Probably OK too but I have not verified

They seem to be the only ones around at the moment other than the genuine STM Discovery that are about 3 times the price. You only need a very basic board. You can use VET6 or VGT6, they will work the same (VGT6 just has more memory)

Also grab yourself an ST-Link programmer. The code can be uploaded via serial but it's slow and can be hard to get it to work.

Thanks for the info, can you draw out a schematic using the f407?

Hey Guys,
I put this project aside when I got busy a while back and just now got back to working in it.

Today I connected everything as shown in the schematics provided in this thread and the emc stuff, but for some reason when I connect my power supply connects to the bts7690s and turn it on (not even connected to anything else, only power supply to bts7690s), it makes a high pitched noise and has no output. Anyone have any idea as to what could be happening here?

Here are some videos showing the connections and the noise as well as some multimeter data measured across the two output terminals of the power supply. The sound of a button clicking is me turning the power supply on.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AlQr3na31g4tZ6YgSN0Ph0u7xS9yeBBA

I've tested the power supply with some LED strips and it works. I also tested the BTS7690s a long time ago and they worked too. I will be retesting the bts7690s individually just to make sure, but I figured in the mean time I'd see if you guys have any insight on my issue.

Thanks

Is the encoder sending the correct number of pulses ?

Does your encoder have a index ?

why are you using 3 motor controllers? Just curious. Are you using 3 motors?

Could a 90Vdc 8am 1 hp motor work? I am using a My1016 but it is not strong enough.

I am using 1 Bts and a 12V source

Hi.
I am using my1020 and when i rotate it manually (the power supply is not connected) it doesn't feel smooth and you can feel the magnets. I dont remember if it was like that in first place when i got it or maybe i screwed while disassembled it and put it back together.

Any insights and suggestions?

It will feel different when you power it up

You were right indeed.

For some reason, I can't keep the steering wheel in the center, it keeps being thrown to the right or left. When i stop the car, the wheel just get crazy lol.
I added a video to show this strange phenomenon:



And i saw that if i steer the wheel fast it lose the right angel of the wheel.
Any suggestions?

Do you have pullup resistors on the encoder pins ?

Do you have the correct number of pulses in the software ?

I use Omron E6B2-CWZ5B 2000P/R, well it seems i connected everything right with common ground(i took a picture of the wiring). The number of pulses in the software is correct (8000 as in the formula PPR x 4).

Maybe the encoder is damaged because i remember the first time i used wrong resistors and i fried them, maybe it damaged the encoder but im not sure, it is working and working well but as i said, if you turn it fast you lose the correct angel.
And of course the unexplained phenomenon which the steering wheel throwing to left or right and cant stay in center.

have you got the motor direction correct ?

try adding 2000 for the pulses

are you using using LFS to test it ?

I tested it on AC. After that i tested on ACC and it worked well on ACC.
I found that the motor was connected wrong. I still have have issues with the encoder.

Edit:
It seems i have problem with steering left. It just losing pulses and if i do it really fast it thinks i steer to the wrong direction. I think it is the encoder.

This is helpful information! However, I'm not sure I follow, and I'm about to finish wiring up my project and this is the last piece in the puzzle. I've got pins on my BTS7960 like this:
1 - RPWM
2 - LPWM
3 - R_EN
4 - L_EN
5 - R_IS
6 - L_IS
7 - VCC
8 - GND

How exactly should these be wired? Sorry, I've done my research but I'm new with this module. Thanks in advance for any help you can afford!

Pins based on using EMC Pro with a STM32F407

1 - RPWM - PC6/8 (DIR+/DIR-)
2 - LPWM - PC8/6 (DIR-/DIR+)
3 - R_EN - PC7 (PWM)
4 - L_EN - PC7 (PWM)
5 - R_IS - N/C
6 - L_IS - N/C
7 - VCC - 3.3v (NOT 5v!, won't do damage but will have issues)
8 - GND - GND

3 and 4 I joined at each module

Set the software to PWM/DIR mode.

Swap 1/2 or your encoder A/B depending on the opposing rotation force matching the detected rotation. I don't recommend swapping motor connections. Start with a small percentage of force to ensure it goes the right way and ensure motor is securely mounted.

See what I mean - you are applying a single PWM signal to the EN pins and not the PWM pins, which seems a bit reverse logic, but if you use 2PWM mode (as previous schematics suggested you do with BTS7960 drivers), the EN pin is always high and when not being driven (L/R PWM) it will short the motor windings, which creates drag on the motor, dulls effects and just doesn't feel right.