Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

Thank you so much for the explanation, I'll be trying this out tonight!

Another question for the community:
Following the wiring details in the preceding post, I've been able to get my rig up and running! Now I'm trying to tune in on the fine details, and I'm having some troubles.

Essentially, it seems like the FFB response curve has a huge minimum threshold value, despite setting the minimum force to 0% everywhere I could. For example, driving in a straight line at speed, the wheel feels completely dead. It won't center itself, no road vibration, nothing. If I begin to weave side to side, as the weaving becomes more intense, suddenly the FFB will kick in quite strong and will feel really good through a corner. Then, the moment the car is settled again, the FFB just vanishes.

Here's my build in a nutshell:
Omron E6B2-CWZ1X Encoder, 1000ppr
12v 180w 2000 rpm motor
4.8:1 belt drive ratio
BTS7960 43A motor driver
12v 30A power supply

I've done the lut generator, and here's an example of what it returns... quite different from my G27 files.

After adding it to AC, here's how it looks:


Any help would be incredible, I'm so anxious to drive this wheel!

How does it feel in the EMC software? I set my max ffb to 80% but minimum force before it moves is quite high too.

Yeah that's almost exactly what I'm experiencing, it's like there's a huge dead spot when the forces go below a certain value. Almost as if the motor isn't responding unless there's at least 75% feedback force requested. I've tinkered with wiring and tried everything I can think of, not sure what to check next.

Do it all from the EMC software. You have to get that right before anything in-game is going to work.

Turn on desktop spring effect and bring up min force until it offers something reasonable.

Hello, what is EMC? I have a HDD with a my1020 and I use MMOS, is EMC the same as MMOS?

And for those who have already manufactured a DD with a brush motor, what PWM frequency do you use? Does the engine get hotter more often? What does happen is that the higher the frequency, the more minimum force is needed for the motor to start working (MY1020), but with the minimum force well adjusted to 16khz it does not make noise and the small details feel very good, but I noticed a lot temperature in the engine, I have to try at 4khz to see if it heats up the same. It has a fan pulling hot air from behind, but it does not prevent a great heating.

EMC is a completely different firmware from MMOS other than the fact that it will run on the same hardware (but will require a rewire, as it uses different pins). MMOS ceased development many years ago and is abandoned by the DEV. EMC is in active development with great support from the author. It does cost a small amount but is totally worth it over MMOS as it has many more features and the feel is much more refined.

Search EMC Developments on FB 'Ebolz Magy'. Reach out, donate a few $ and he'll give you access to the google drive share with all the resources you need.

I believe he is also currently working on a port to ESP32 over the STM32F407 which will be an even cheaper option on a modern controller.

As for frequency, I just set mine as low as I can that makes it inaudible. I have got a 120mm fan pulling fresh air in to it but I have also drilled out all of the vent holes to 14mm for easy air flow. It runs warm to hot over a race but If you're smelling the varnish, it's getting too hot.

Is your motor a 1000w my1020? what power supply do you use? I use 12V and 82A, I get 9nm. Lower the frequency instead of raising it so as not to hear the hum, what are the advantages? Changing the wiring now to use EMC is very difficult for me.

Yes, my motor is a MY1020 48v 1000w @ 12v. I use a HP server power supply DPS-1000 which is 90 something amps with a 240v input.

I measured my max torque to be around 7nm by using a small torque wrench against the motor at full power, increasing the setting till it no longer 'clicked'. However it was in reverse since the nut on the motor is a left handed thread. I'm not sure if my torque wrench is rated in both directions.

I think you misunderstood my statement on frequency. You can have the PWM frequency as low as you like but if it is in an audible range, you will hear it. For me, I just set the frequency high enough so I can't hear it.

I can tell you now, it's 100% worth the effort to migrate to EMC, no matter how hard it is. It will feel like a new wheel.

What is the difference in connections between mmos and EMC? Would it just be changing the location of the pins? I am using 4 ibt 2 with 2 AMD CPU heatsinks (one heatsink for each 2 ibt2) it works very well like this and it maintains more torque than xon only 3. To measure the NM, use a bar attached to the wheel and set a scale at one meter, or whatever size it is and do the calculation. That's how it gave me the 9nm and it's very accurate if you measure it like that. Now I have the high frequency so as not to hear it, the question was if the more frequency could generate more heat.

Yes, the pin functions are basically the same, it just uses different pins.

I'm running 3 IBT modules on stock heatsinks but with thermal pads and filled vias. Seems to work well.

I think it does produce more heat with higher frequency but I'm not going to listen to the whine of motor.

I have my wheel all set up in the EMC wheel config thing, but how do I use it in Assetto Corsa?

It should appear as a wheel in the list of wheels

What other programs do you have ?

Thanks for your reply. I managed to get it to work this morning - turns out I just had to turn the wheel to more extreme angles for Assetto Corsa to detect it.

Hi again. i've a setup for a long time. with my1020/ibt2/12V 41A./EMC software/Stm32
im using same setup but there is no power with new pc. All the other parts working greate.(encoder,pedals,gears)
i check all connections, change ibt but cant find problem
win 11 should be a problem?
and last time i use EMC the version was 1.0.6 and there is no power input and brake resistance sections

Using this connections
1 - RPWM - PC6/8 (DIR+/DIR-)
2 - LPWM - PC8/6 (DIR-/DIR+)
3 - R_EN - PC7 (PWM)
4 - L_EN - PC7 (PWM)
5 - R_IS - N/C
6 - L_IS - N/C
7 - VCC - 3.3v
8 - GND - GND

Any help will be greateful

Heya, anyone used the FSESC6 motor driver on EMC with a DC motor?

Hi guys been using my wheel for a while now and love it, thanks for all the good info and help in getting it built.

A few days ago I was playing and I just play for short periods of times so I don't have any special cooling for it yet. I normally just monitor the temps of the ibt_2s and when they get hot I quit playing. However, this time, I wasn't paying attention to the motor temp and it had gotten really hot (still was working but started to have a slight smell). I shut it off and put a fan on it to blow air through it. Then I tried it yesterday and it worked fine but was making a lot of a squeaking type noise. When I tried it today as soon as I started the power to it it started spinning rapidly.
Two questions here:
Did I damage my motor by letting it overheat?

Does anyone know why it is spinning like this?
I have soft reset the controller a couple of times but every time I turn it on now it just spins really fast.

Your motor is probably fine but you've damaged (one of, if you have more than one) the ibt_2. Your motor is probably fine if it spins. I have got mine pretty hot to where I could smell the enamel pretty bad and it's fine still.

Cooling is 100% required!

Thanks, I swapped out my ibt_2s and it seems to work now. Any idea what goes wrong with them to cause this?

Definitely learned my lesson now on the cooling front lol, going to hold off on playing until I get some proper cooling implemented