DD-Wheel with Hoverboard Motor

Well after i looking at my wheel and feel bad for it I manage to drill a hole into my GT2 pulley that i have laying around probably gonna switch to that when i have time
Also this should fix a little bit of backlash that i have too

Hi, I would like to know if I still have the project in hand, since I am building one, but I have an STM32 f401c but they tell me that I need a can bus and I see that you are not using a can bus, so I would like to know if I can do it with what I have make the vesc mini 4.12 work .. I hope you help me.

I got the VESC to work with EMC software configured to output the PWM signal matching what a hobby type servo motor expects. You will need some firmware like EMC to run on your STM32 f401c. I would contact EMC Developer https://www.facebook.com/EMCDeveloper/

Good luck

I have everything, before I used my f401 with a bts7960 and the EMC utility, but I don't know how to make my DD-HB work with the vesc Mini in conjunction with the stm32f401. Could it be that you share your finding of how you manage to make it work? I would be very grateful.

The PWM signal that controls the bts7960 is different than the PWM signal the VESC requires.

VESC needs a PWM signal that replicates the pulse width and duty cycle that drives a "hobby style" servo. Very convenient if you want to control your VESC with a hobby style remote control. Good explination on wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Servo_control.

EMC, running on the f401 outputs an "Industrial" PWM signal on a different frequency/ duty cycle either over two signal lines. (One forward and one reverse), or one signal line with a second signal indicating forward or reverse. You can change frequencies and signal type in EMC configuration, but no combination will match the hobby style servo PWM signal.

However, it is a very easy change for the EMC developer to add the hobby style servo PWM signal as an option. He did it for me on a trial basis on his Arduino firmware. I have no idea if he can add it to the F401 firmware. You should contact him directly.

If not, your choices are limited:
A) You would have to find a BLDC motor controller that accepts an industrial PWM signal. These can be expensive and not well suited to controlling hub motors.

B) You could build a PWM converter. It should be pretty easy to program an Arduino to input an industrial PWM signal, and output a corresponding "hobby" style signal. I am sure there are existing libraries to help. Should be fast enough to not effect the FFB effects.

C) Purchase an ODrive, or ODESC motor controller and use firmware from Roman Smoliakov See post #562 on this thread. I find this the most reliable, and best FFB response of any solution i have tried using a HB wheel.

That is all the help I can provide. Good Luck!

really thank you very much, it has given me a lot of knowledge, I learned some important things, god bless your wisdom and I really appreciate your support, but I contacted EMC, he recommends me to use the F407vet6 and provided all the diagram, I have already bought it and I hope Upon arrival, I have also acquired an Odrive 3.5-48v to have more options, I will be trying both options and I will follow the thread you have told me about.

I would like to know if you have a YouTube channel where you express yourself and show your findings.

-thank you very much and blessings.

hey I seem to be running into a issue with my Odrive board yesterday I was able to connect everything and upload the firmware and it was working fine i can see the controller and the encoder were working without any issues.

Then I connected the wheel t the board and I think i may have not connected the wheel wires correctly because there was no rotation or FFB on it at all figured I may have connected the wheel wrong.

However now when I try to power the odrive it seems like i have a dead short on my oDrive board between + and - as soon as I connect the power to the board the Psu goes into safety mode because of the dead short.

I tried looking for it on the board but my skills when it comes to pcb fault finding is a joke and was wondering if any of you may have run into this before?

At the moment evrything is disconnected from the odrive an i still seem to be having a dead short between + and -

I am only using a 12v psu at the monent as this was only to test.

Hello, I will give you the possible help from this side, but I tell you that how you connect the DD-Hb will not matter since depending on how you connect it, it can change the direction in which it turns, that would not cause a short, but if a bad connection of the voltage at the input, but what is safe or may be is that one of the mosfets of your ODrive has broken and shorted, to check it you have to disassemble them and measure it, or go disassembling one by one and for each one that you disassemble, measure with a tester the voltage input of ODrive in continuity at the moment that it does not measure short, since previously it is the mosfet that you disassembled and that is where you replace it.

But failing that, it would be to get another ODrive since the short could have damaged another component.

Another easier method to identify which mosfet is shorted, is using cold, you cool the whole board and before it defrosts you supply voltage to the board and you will see that the component that is shorted will defrost first of all.

Good luck with the test.

Hey yes i was able to remove and test the mosfits using a friends heat station it looks like 2 of them is nog happy at all. I added them all back one by one and did some testing and at first everting was fine again i can still program an connect to the odrive nothing seems to be broken. Now i would need to replace those with new ones and i can not read those part numbers for the life of me. This is a clone from ali does anyone perhaps have the part numbers for the mosfits on those board so i can het replacements?

Just took a quick picture and do a little bit of search and i found this i hope that's help https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...vid=202212120900182718991205507520000903603_1

Hello, I would like to ask couple of questions about diy ffb wheel using hoverboard motor, hoverboard motherboard and STM32f401. With what variant do I compile my motherboard? I did it in PWM and PPM but nothing is working at all, I only get beeps because motherboard is not receiving any signal. I'm connecting PA08 pin to blue and green right side motherboard wires and ground, but nothing.. What should I do?

Hey there y'all

I've been looking to build a steering wheel with a hoverboard motor, just getting started with sim racing, this thread is massive and I really do not have the time to read through all 31 pages of it.

It would be amazing if someone who has a working setup could quickly run down how it works and what connects to what and what does what. a lot of what's lol

Br.

Hector

Hi Hector

The easiest and quickest way is to get an ODrive or Chinese clone along with and encoder and your hoverboard motor. Join a discord and you'll be racing in no time.

Thanks for the quick response.
The O Drive solution by Roman on GitHub seems to be the right call for a hoverboard motor, I am going to look into the details of it and try and gather together what I need, I am going to put in an order on aliexpress for an O Drive clone, encoder and some hardware, while im at it, I am looking to also build a load cell break pedals and some Hall effect throttle and clutch pedals, I am also going to put together a sequential shifter for now because it is easy to put together, and the clutch pedal can do nothing until I get a H pattern shifter, I will keep the thread updated, and I might make a few YouTube videos in order to help any others trying to DIY a hoverboard motor powered DDFF steering wheel.

Good to hear your are going to build your own wheel and Pedals and shifter looking forward to the YouTube videos.
If you choose to use the battery from the hoverboard you should be able to get max torque and speed from your hoverboard motor, if you are using a PSU be sure to get a breaking resistor of @least 10ohm @50W. Enjoy the build/learning experience

I have a few files available online, the Onshape software is very CAD package that I used to make my 3d printer Sim racing gear, feel free to have a look/improve on my work

good to know about the breaking resistor, I was going to go with a 2R but if you say so, I will go 10R
For the powersupply I am going to get a 400w 24v power supply as I do not want to run the rig off a battery, and I can use a few dc-dc converters in order to power the pedals and shifters

good to know about the breaking resistor, I was going to go with a 2R but if you say so, I will go 10R
For the powersupply I am going to get a 400w 24v power supply as I do not want to run the rig off a battery, and I can use a few dc-dc converters in order to power the pedals and shifters

hey Wayne, in addition to our discussion in the other thread, I also found this info from you Here. Does this mean that I don't need a breaking resistor if I use the hoverboard battery? I only have a 1ohm resistor that came with my ODrive, so if none is needed for the battery, then thats another reason for using it over a PSU