Tutorial DIY 3D printed Sim Racing Hydraulic pedals SRT

New versions for both accelerator and brake pedal for this week-end ;-)

Hi, I made a video to present the updates :



I am now uploading all the files, and updating the descriptions.

Brilliant video, very informative and well constructed!

When I was looking at the individual parts I wasn't sure how they all go together but the video showed all my current questions about it.

I'm just calibrating my 3d printer so I should be printing this off pretty quickly so good timing!

Another way to attach the master is to make slots for the nuts to slide in, or have a smaller gap and heat up the nut a lot soldering iron pressed against it, which will melt the plastic around it which should be very strong.

Thanks for the recognition by the way!

Good idea to add the slots for the nuts. I thought it was bad because it could have been weaker, but not necessarily... I will add it later.

There is also solutions with threads that can be inserted with an iron. But I think this solution is a bit risky, if the parts are not perfectly aligned, there is a risk to ruin a 20h print...

Now, I will have more time to focus on my other projects :

Ooooo what might this project entail? Is it a dof system?

Yeah
Two goals here :
1) convert the Open sfx 100 actuators to stepper motors that are less expensive
2) Invert the actuators so the moving part is lighter (the actuator doesn't bear the motors anymore), and the motion can be quickier (less risk of making the all rig take off)

Good luck!

Every time I see motion rig it seems that they put the motor on the moving part which adds a huge amount of weight which always seems like a really bad idea.

Well... mounting the motor this way allow to fix the rig to the 100x100 extruded profil, which ensure that the rig is well clamped to the actuators.

With my inverted actuators, I will have to clamp the rig to the 30mm OD tube...

3D printed M8 rod end ?

Working on the design, what are your thoughts about it ?

Hello Lebois, thank you very much, for sharing your project. I`ve also done my own pedal set with hall sensors and load cells. Unfortunately after six months one of the 50kg load cells broke. Without reading your project I would have changed one of the load cells and hope the best for future, but now I have a new little project .

To manage the brake hardness, I would mount a rubber buffer with thread between the brake calliper.

Something like this



Many variations of shore are available and had good experiene with load cell.

My only apprehension is, that the Z-rotation of the lever could be too big and damage the main cylinder especially the gaskets. Maybe longholes in the lever or only a fixed main cylinder in X and Y cords could avoid that ?

Sorry for my bad english, I am not a native speaker.

My fanatec pedal uses a 90KG load cell. In use, the weight I set reaches 60kg, so do you consider using a larger load cell more than 50kg and retain some redundancy to keep load cell safe?

Thank you for sharing. Due to concerns about strength, I never thought that 3D printing could be used to make pedals. After seeing your pedal, I am no longer worried.

Hi @Balu ! the rubber buffer you show can't be used for that. You need a specific material that can't be compressed without changing as many time as you want... And that kind of parts is quite hard to find actually. You should look after fibroelast elastomer springs.
Anyway, I already tried to put a spring in the brake calipper, and the brake pedal felt very sprongy :/

I am not sure what you mean ? It worries you that the lever touches the master cylindre ? The lever is quite far, and can't be put even further with the new parts I drew

Sorry but no vulcanized rubber is elastic until you reach the specification, after that it is viscoelatic . You have only to look into the Data sheet how much N are the maximum + your own safety factor and a construction which allow yout to distribute the pressure on the rubber. Furthermore you can put in variations of Shore.

Here a link:

https://www.kippwerk.de/de/de/Produ...ungselemente/Gummipuffer-Edelstahl-Typ-B.html

Datenblatt means datasheet

Forget about my worries it was to late today 2.30am in Germany.

In my case it was only a material fail. Project should be as cheap as possible

Your cranksets are really well thought out. In karting to modify the attack on the brake pedal, you can modify the distance between the axis of rotation of the pedal and the axis of the master cylinder rod. Do you think that by adding adjustment holes at the level of your pedalboard there would be a real feeling according to the players?

Yes you can change screw or unscrew the M8 end joint. It acts as a preload. There is many things that can be tuned on this pedal, and I believe that you could find exactly the same feeling as the one you have on your kart.