DIY FFB Steering wheel (MMosFFB ) (In Progress)

You need pull up resistors on channels 0 . 1 . 6

DIY FFB Steering wheel (MMosFFB ) (In Progress)

thanks @auryza

is there a later version of firmware that does not need the pullups ?

No. Only this one...

In the Arduino Leonardo I use the Omron encoder Omron E6B2-CWZ6C-2000P / R, Leonardo only A, B two, A, B items of the pull-up resistor, z no need to connect resistance, then a switch, and then gnd, in the Leonardo start windows system does not recognize the need to press the switch, turn the steering wheel, the system can identify

i i went out and bought some 560 ohm resistors and added them between 5v and pins 0, 1 , 6

still nothing

i have 2 shaft encoders - i have tried them both

e6b2 - cwz6c omron 360 p/r

lpd3806-360bm-g5-24c 360 p/r (using a switch between pin 6 and gnd)

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the settings in Wheelconfig advanced are




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what is going wrong ??


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now the wheelcofig program will not find the com port of the leonardo again ?

1. Connect the arduino to the usb, go to the windows device manager, port com appears?
if not, try installing the arduino drivers / program on the site.

2. Example pullup resistors, ebolz example uses 4.7k:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/t...Jmwy1xJFOu7oHROmO9_hsYKpCMzhURo=w1600-h769-rw

i have resinstalled the drivers for the arduino

with the pin6 connected to ground the wheelconfig program has lost the com port for the leonardo again !

it makes me think the download of the wheelconfig.rar is corrupt

is there somewhere else i can download the wheelconfig problem ?

What is the COM Port number in the Windows device manager?

Maybe if it is big, the wheelconfig is not recognized.

I uploaded WheelConfig_0.21.exe that I had on my drive, but I think that's not the problem.
https://www.mediafire.com/file/d0m6sxy55lw0ur6/WheelConfig_0.21.exe

Hi @Fernando Igor - thank you for your help with this problem

i have tried your download of wheelconfig - no change

i have tried changing the com port to com1 - again no difference

right now i have a leonardo that is programmed with xloader and FFBWheel.0.16.leonardo.hex

the only pin that is connected is pin 6 - connected to GND

i guess i have to try another laptop with a different version of windows - (currently windows 8)

Strange.
Make sure the arduino appears in the Windows game controller
[... go to the control panel ... or run joy.cpl ... or cmd.exe start joy.cpl...]

Plug USB and disconnect Gnd to pin6, turn encoder and connect Gnd to pin6.
Look if works.

If it appears card Leonardo and dont work axis-X, the firmware is spelled correctly and you may have a problem with the Arduino card.



I am writing a firmware for my g27 dead from the Etienne Saint-Paul code (firmware developer FFBWheel.0.16.leonardo.hex). My code is still under development and does not work universally, made for g27 components. But you can test if your encoder is recognized.
FW: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzAzg0yVL0n0RnFGekFfWWk5RlE

- Write the same way with xLoader.
- Test before any pullup resistance, direct wire. (I set pin pullup pin0 (A) and pin1 (B))
- Do not use the Z-index (C-channel encoder) or Gnd for pin6. (channels A and B only)

See in the Windows game controller if it is recognized and if the X axis works.
if dont work, try pullup resistor.

Hi @Fernando Igor

I have made some progress with a different computer

I installed your version of wheelconfig and was able to get the laptop to recognise the Leonardo and the com port

I was able to program the board using the wheelconfig program

the board has pin6 connected to gnd

by removing the pin 6 / gnd I am able to get the board to count using my finger on pin 0-1

attached are the images of the screens

Done.
Test the encoder =)

finally i have the encoder working with the board

but only on a spare laptop !

there must be something else installed that is stopping the leonardo driver from recognising the com port etc

i have tried installing the latest arduino software but it still is a problem

i guess i need to use the other laptop !

i have the ibt-2 wired up

what software do you use to test the ffb effects ?

Im use WheelCheck
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zxf5yd1bvujyi5/WheelCheck_1_72.zip?dl=0

Incoming new build!




Some more work needed and I'll be able to start testing.

That looks similar to my build

How many volts/watts is your motor ?

What type of encoder are you using ?

What type of motor driver are you using ?

Motor is 24V 450W XYD 6B

Encoder is HN3806-AB-600W (600ppr/2400 cpr)

Motor driver is IBT-2, Technically the IBT-2 should have sufficient current but I don't know how much current this motor will need under stall.

I will be using the MMOS to control the wheel.

A brushed DC electric scooter motor as direct drive? That will be interesting.
How much torque is expected from this setup? I'm guessing anything close to what a Logitech wheel can deliver can be considered a success.

I started so gather components for a wiper motor driven wheel with 1:10 gear ratio with belts. A 12V wiper motor could be around 40Watts, correct me if I'm mistaken.
Yours is much more promising already, direct drive or not, either way.

Although beware of the current consumption. This page says it can take a lot more peak current than rated. I suppose it will most likely fry the IBT-2.
https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/xyd-6d-450w-24v-2600-rpm-with-chain-sprocket-en.html

After inspecting my IBT-2 I have found some issues with the original design. Specifically the heat sink.
If I am to dissipate a good amount of heat I would need to actively cool the heat sink. Originally I wanted to just blow air over the standard cooler and keep it cooler that way. From the design I assumed that there would bee a big heat pad under the PCB to transfer the heat. I noticed that the heat sink was pretty firm on the PCB and so thought to inspect the heat paste applied. Not surprisingly there was no heat paste at all and the heat transfer through the PCB would be poor.

So I decided to provide some active cooling using a CPU heatsink and attach it from the other side, directly on the mosfet.

Here I've taken off the connectors and capacitor to free some space for the heat sink.



The original heat sink with flux stains from original solder.


New heat sink.


Connectors and capacitors soldered on reverse side of PCB.


Having the heat sink on the soldered tabs would be ideal but because those pads are actually the motor driver outputs it would be a headache to isolate everything properly.