DIY FFB Steering wheel (MMosFFB ) (In Progress)

I saw somebody soldering the resistors directly in the encoder housing. Would that be easier?

Not especially.
Thing is in the whole wire connectors.
Any photo of the layout? Secure the wires after all is set with hot glue anywhere in around.

Can the dupont cables be at fault?

Yes, loose connectors first of all.

Hey, following your post I bough this soft but when i start the program i get this error, do you know where i can find this file? Maybe I have to ask the dev for it?

I changed them, soldered them on the board, still the same problem. Can there be something wrong with the board?

Don't know, but hardly.
Bad electrical encoder connection, looks like mechanical loose connection from shaft to encoder. Although, it looks alike really, check the mechanical part too.

I switched to an arduino leonardo board, and EMC lite software. I did some test, it's working good until now, no drifting. MAybe the stm32 wasn't geting 5v, idk. I ordered a smaller stm32 board, but until that arrives I will stay on the arduino

Didn't noticed the dev explained everything in the mail, it's fixed.

I am running my encoder at 3.3v and output waveform is fine and smt32 is happy with that signal. Also I shortened a cable from encoder to about 30cm (not need whole 2m of cable).
And Dupont connectors? They gave me hard time during my build. Somehow, someway many of them do not conduct and I find out that issue was badly crimped ends despite looking fully crimped on. Some of them conducted randomly, some do not work at all. Maybe that is something to look at?

If I connect the encoder to 3.3v I don't get a signal at all
I tried soldering the cables from the encoder directly to the stm32 board, still the same problem. Now i'm using an arduino leonardo, with EMC lite and have no problem, I set the center everytime i connect it to the pc, but the center remains centered no matter how long I play, or how hard i steer the wheel. I ordered another stm32 board, maybe it was something wrong with mine. Will let you know when I get it. Hope that solves the problem, but I don t have a lot of hope

Truth is that encoder should not work at 3.3v as it is below minimum voltage specs. Why mine does work? No idea

Reason for running it at 3.3v is that smt32 is 3.3v logic but it should be 5v tolerant but I didn't have any concrete proof about that so I rather not want to take a risk. I had prepared voltage shiter for encoder in case it would not work at 3.3v and it had to be powered at 5v.

It is very possible your smt32 was somehow damaged, after all switching to different board seems to fix your issue.

The pins used are 5v tolerant. Not all of the STM pins are though - Specifically excluded are the ones that can do ADC and a few others.

I would have thought that if the STM32 @Francisc has was damaged, there would be no signal at all. It is odd that the Arduino works fine though. You are gambling a bit with chinese quality though - For the price these boards are, it's worth getting more than one anyway.

One thought I did have though - On the V1.06 F103 (and possibly 1.07) version, there is the option for a manual centering button, if there was noise on this pin (left floating) it could falsely reset the center. I know when I was testing with F103 i'm pretty sure I had to pull the pin high and the button would make it low.

This is just mind boggling. I just moved the wiring from the arduino board to the stm32. The only difference is that I did not connect the Z cable, and now it's all good, from the test I did (a few laps in acc).
Maybe the z was the problem? I don't know, but I'm glad that it just works for now. Thanks a lot for the help.

@Michelle tried to connect it to 3.3v, but I have 2.2k resistors wired to the encoder and it didn't work

@elnino thanks for the info

Well I guess that is good - It means you are not having issues with the A/B lines and just the Z. there must be some noise on the Z line (or your pullup is not working) that is causing the issue.

I have Z output connected but emc not configured for autocenter finding or how its called, but calibration is still on the point and software center matches the hardware center. How is that possible if Z is not used? Or it is still used somehow by emc to keep track of wheel's center?

Hi all!

I have a Fanatec 911 Turbo S wheel that's took a dump so I'm going to chuck out all of the old boards and will install some new bits in it's place. I bought the parts second hand from someone who tried to do a DIY FFB wheel and couldn't figure it out so I'm going to have a go at it instead!

What I have so far is;

STM32 F407VET6 board
IBT_2 driver
Omron E6B2-CWZ6C encoder

I also have a 24v 20 amp PSU as well as a 24v motor (specs unknown - how can I find out?).

For now I'll just use the original motor to get everything working then I may swap over to the newer motor if I can figure out what it's specs are.

I'll also be purchasing EMC full version to run on the STM

Is there anything else that I'm missing? I've read the whole thread but as it's a mix of Arduino and STM board stuff I'm getting a little confused with having to use pullup/down resistors etc or if anyone has a link to a nice simple guide that would be great!

Thanks!

Hey, sounds good. I did similar rebuild with more or less same parts. For schematic and/or guide maybe best is to visit EMC's Facebook page, there are several pictures of schematic. Also after purchase you will recive access not only to firmware and software but also several PDF files with guide how to wire your SMT board. Simply how to wire pedals, buttons, encoder, H-shifter, motor driver, pretty much everything.
Regarding pull-up, pull-down resistors, they are needed for encoder (in most cases) to make them work. Buttons uses internal pull-ups inside processor itself, no need to add them.
After all it is not rocket science just bunch of wires

Ah brill, thank you very much!

I have the original Clubsport V1 pedals so will use them, as well as the original paddle shifters rewired to the STM board.

I have a 3D printer so will be looking into an H shifter at some point too

I'm itching to get it done by the weekend!

So I've ran into a little issue,

I've bought the EMC Pro software and want to install the firmware into the STL board. In the instructions it says I need an STL programmer which I don't have. Is there any way of uploading the HEX file to the STL board without the programmer?