DIY FFB Steering wheel (MMosFFB ) (In Progress)

Thanks for the answer.

I found a DFGT encoder image of a member of this forum, but im a new member, cant post link.
Title Thread is Unwanted Driving Force GT Vibrations
It is exactly the same a my sensor board, except in the empty place there is a thermistor.

The connection scheme would be:
Black wire: A-channel
Yellow wire: GND
White wire: B-channel
Green wire: Vcc

that's right?

I found some decent pictures of the G27 encoder setup and those wire colours/connections are the same between the G27 and DFGT encoders.
You do not need to connect the extra wire to anything, looks like a little ceramic cap but I can't see it properly so I'm not sure.

What voltage are you applying to VCC? If you aren't getting anything out of the channels then you might want to increase VCC. To test the output channels, connect LEDs to ground from the channel outputs.

Cheers

Thank you so much!

I was able to read the encoder. Tomorrow i will check the consumption of the motor on load and find a drive or H-bridge.

Hi @Alexey, This is such an informative thread for some one looking to make a DIY Steering wheel like me. All though a lot of thing have been covered in the thread so far, i still have a few doubts (I'm a noob and gitting in to all of these now).

• You had trouble will the motor driver in the begining but then solved it and made a working wheel, how did to get over the over heating issue.
• I have seen that to make a osw direct drive ffb wheel suggest using simecube alone with ion drivers. Can this method (Arduino) be used insted of the simecube, and if it can be done will the result be comparable quality wise.
  Thanks in advance.
  
  

1. I got over the overheating issue by choosing a different motor. I didn't pay enough attention to the spec sheet which stated the massive stall current.
I ended up building a full stand alone wheel with a 100W 12V dc motor. Alternatively you could just choose a better motor if repairing a off the shelf
FFB wheel (Logitech,Thrustmaster etc.) I think @Pit upgraded his motor in his T500RS wheel and was quite happy with the result.

2. My method does not use arduino and as far as I know there is not a widely known arduino variant. My method uses the STM32F Discovery board.
The MMos firmware is then uploaded to the STM32 board and acts like a generic FFB wheel which can be modified through the MMos Utility
software. This MMos firmware can control a Direct Drive FFB wheel or a generic H-Bridge controlled DC motor. You choose the control scheme
through the MMos Utility software.

Here is the original creators link: https://forum.virtualracing.org/showthread.php/92420-DIY-USB-Force-Feedback-Controller

So any idea how would the stm32f discovery board stack up against a simcube with the same motor. I am from india and getting a simcube here is almost impossible and even if i manage to get it the cost will be very high. hence considering the stm32f board, but havent seen any stm32f builds with a mige moto or any otrher DD FFB motors. Also will i be better of getting a t300 for the time being, this will be my first wheel actually.

http://opensimwheel.wikidot.com/

The link has information about stm32f builds with mige motors including a parts list.

I have alread go through that link. anyways this thred has been hughly informative, thanks.

Hi Guys,

i have just read the thread and it looks a neat project

i wanted to ask everyones opinion on a starter motor !

they are 12v and can produce 36N

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an alternative idea is to use 2 dc motors instead of one to get the torque up

please discuss

Hi Gadget,

The problem with the starter motor is the insane amount of current required to get that torque. Also starter motors are not designed to be run more than 30 seconds of continual use. This is because the windings are not designed to dissipate the heat buildup and will quickly melt the insualtion and short out. If you are technically savvy you could control the current going to the motor and limit it to something sane. That would however reduce overall torque.

2 DC motors is also completely fine as Logitech does this in their g25/g27 wheels.

Hi Alexy,

i did think there would be a lot of current ! perhaps it could be run at 6v or lower to keep the heat down

something else i looked at was this



Unite MY1020 Geared 750W Motor

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this guy has done a FFB wheel of his own for a flight simulator (and his own linear actuator !)

http://bffsimulation.com/BFF-FFB-System.php

i did think there would be a lot of current ! perhaps it could be run at 6v or lower to keep the heat down

something else i looked at was this



Unite MY1020 Geared 750W Motor

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this guy has done a FFB wheel of his own for a flight simulator (and his own linear actuator !)

http://bffsimulation.com/BFF-FFB-System.php[/QUOTE]

Hi

Believe me this one have to much power, i have project already with Arduino leonardo FFB, and this motor on picture has a lot of torque, even some times too much. , 24 V 350W.

awesome to see somebody else is thinking along the same lines !

how does the wheel feel ? does it compare to the OSW project

what is the gearing of this motor ?

I like it, it's really good, i have tried and OSW, of course it's different from DC motor setup, because of gearing, still it's much better than any Thrustmaster or other similar ,
speed after gear with load 353 rpm, 9,7:1

This is my setup.

Hi Auryza

that looks pretty neat - did you write the arduino code ?

would love to see a review of your wheel

On picture is actually sketch, what possible to do with Leonardo.
Motor 1016z-350W 24V, 9,7:1 Gear , encoder 2000 PPR, nothing else unusual.
Steering wheel from some old racing car.
Coupling custom made by me. Again nothing unusual.

has anyone tried a drill motor ?

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-396505-20sv.html

Hi,

Just curious. Is the wheel hard to turn even without power? Wondering if the gearing causes a heavy wheel.
I had thought of using this motor and gearbox combo but was unsure if it would be too heavy to turn freely.

Currently under the MMos FFB setup you can use any DC motor with a bi directional H-Bridge (with inputs for DIR+, DIR -, PWM) or for a servomotor identical to MIGE + ARGON DRIVE.

So in short, yes you can use a drill motor. That's the beauty of this bit of kit. The limit is your imagination. (and wallet/mechanical/electrical skill)