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DIY G29 Hydraulic Load Cell brake

Discussion in 'DIY peripherals' started by niterida, Jun 17, 2020.

  1. Plodder

    Plodder New Member

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    Brilliant thread.
    ive thought for a while that the best way to replicate a car brake feel it to ,,, well replicate a car brake.
    I’d like to try this on a ps5 but replicating the electronics , well I wouldn’t know where to start
  2. Plodder

    Plodder New Member

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    Ok started
    Waiting on load cell - let’s see where this goes
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  3. niterida

    niterida Member

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    Good luck - I will be eagerly awaiting your build and thoughts :)
  4. Plodder

    Plodder New Member

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    Thanks I’ve pretty much got this sorted now. Originally I wanted to go down the route of a hydraulic pressure valve but quickly realised I can’t sort the electronics to make it work with my current set up. So have ended up using a load sensor and some pre loaded springs mounted in the calliper where the disc would go

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  5. niterida

    niterida Member

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    got pics of how u r using the springs ??
  6. Plodder

    Plodder New Member

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    Yeah can you see the picture above?

    I’ll try and explain it. Load cell in the centre between the 2 plates fixed on one side.
    Each end under the wing nuts and between the plates are a stack of bellivile spring washers which are compressed by the wing nuts.
    These are compressed so the just touch the load cell. Whole thing drops in the calliper in place of the brake disk.
    Main idea was to ensure the brake pistons were pushed back and didn’t leave any residual pressure on the load cell in between breaking. It can also be used to firm up the brake feel if needed.
    Seems to work well.
    However I’m just waiting on a Fanatec setup, so I’m trying to find out the voltage from a csl brake pedal to see if I can use a fluid pressure sensor .
  7. niterida

    niterida Member

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    Thats what I thought you meant.
    Back in the 50s when General Motors were developing the disc brake they tried to figure out a similar system for exactly the same reason. Until one of their engineers said "Why bother ? Just let the natural reaction of the fluid returning to its initial state pull the pistons back in". I don't have any springs in mine and the loadcell is free to move when the pedal is released. But I have a button type loadcell and small scooter brake so the loadcell ( https://shop.simagic.com/products/p-s100 ) and only just fits in the caliper so no room for springs. I do have a spring on the pedal though which helps with the feel.
    So do you have your setup up and running ? How does it feel ?
  8. Plodder

    Plodder New Member

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    Ahh didn’t know that .
    I saw the spring on yours made sense.
    I had to use that spring loaded plate because the smallest pressure registers on the load sensor.
    I haven’t driven with it yet. I actually put it together for a Logitech g29 but I now have a Fanatec ordered so will need to redo it for that.


  9. niterida

    niterida Member

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    Is that because it is just a 50kg loadcell ? You may need something a little heavier or add another one and wire it up for 100kg. I have a 200kg button one here if you want to upgrade or you can get them from AliExpress. Although I highly recommend the Simagic 100 or even better the 200kg ones as I think their design is the most suitable.
  10. Plodder

    Plodder New Member

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    Biggest challenge at the moment is trying to find out if the signal from the native fanatec cal brake is similar to the g29. Where the signal voltage decreases when you press the brake pedal .

    exactly that 50kg because it was for a g29 and ps5 I’m limited to a half bridge load cell . Fortunately the pre tensioned springs help to stiffen everything up.
    Ideally I’d like to switch to a 1000psi inline fluid sensor. But first I need to find out about the fanatec voltage. Failing that I’ll slot the Fanatec load cell into the calliper ,, I’m limited because I’ll be running it through the wheel base